While I'm waiting for new rims, I thought I would ask if there are any clever ways to mitigate old Raleigh droputs that have become widened/rounded through abusive use. I found the rear wheel on the '52 had not anti-rotation washers, and it looks like someone rode it that way for a long time. Having the washers in there seems to prevent the wheel from turning, and I plan, when I have it all together again, to buy a new chain and move the wheel back in the slot to where the dropout is still close to the right width.

However, I keep wondering if I could get the local bike builder, Charlie O'Leary, to weld a new set of slots on top of the existing dropouts. Would that work? Has anything else been devised? I'm sure it's a common problem with older bikes with SA hubs.


Worn and Weary Dropouts

My concern for drop outs with Sturmey Archer hubs is whether there is enough thread on the axle to widen the dropout very much. I have installed Sturmey Archer hubs in bikes with cast dropouts and found that there was not enough thread to get the axle sufficiently tight to keep the chain tension reliably. When I have dropouts I am worried about, I put anti-rotation washers on both sides and pull the wheel back to where the dropout is in better shape. Good luck.

-Will

New steel could be added to the dropout, however, the concern would be to keep the drop out cool enough to prevent melting the braze. A Tig welder might be best here, however, I don't have experience with doing this type of repair. We have Forum members that do have experience that hopefully will give you some advice. You could also wrap the brazed area with a wet rag to keep that areas temperatures down. Then file it so the slot is smoother and straight again.

It's so small, the frame builder would probably be tempted to fill in brass even though it's not as strong as steel. Making a little piece of steel filler then filing it down would probably add significantly to the cost and make the repair harder to perform. If you're looking for a cosmetic fix, this might be a place something like JB-weld might (or might not) work since it's mostly under compression and not really that structural.

Easiest solution is to fill in with brass and a torch and then file and sand back down to correct dimension.

If you want steel instead of brass then the same "filling" can be done with a TIG welder and the correct filler metal. ER70S-6 is the common carbon steel filler metal. 309 is a stainless filler metal that is known for its ability to bond to dissimilar metals, so it is also an option. The amperage required would be low enough and the brazed joints are far enough away that melting the brass at the chainstays/seatstays would probably not be an issue. Then it would need to be filed down and sanded like the brass.

Most costly option is to have both dropouts replaced entirely by a framebuilder. If you'd like more than one eyelet or any other features it might be worth making this investment.

Thank you. When I get the rest of the bike together, I'll see about filling with brass. Would most people just replace the missing anti-rotation washers - which I have done - and go on with their lives? There haven't been many accounts of what people have done in this case, just what I can do, if I want.

It's worth a try. It looks like the dropout has been opened up a little. Careful use of a hammer should close it up again, which will help. Also, if you add a couple links to the chain you can move the axle back to the undamaged area, which may solve the problem.

​​​​​​Either way, if the left dropout is in decent shape the anti-turn washer there will do its job. On the right maybe you can sandwich the dropout between two washers and get enough grip to hold the axle... or maybe you can't. If something works, you'll know it. Good luck!

Just to be clear, the wheel seemed to work fine, even before I discovered the anti-rotation washer was missing. Of course, I only rode the bike around the block a few times and up and down a bike path before I decided to start overhauling the rear hub and replacing all the bearings. I thought it might be a good idea to close up that gap just to hold everything a little bit more firmly. As it is now, the anti rotation washer sits in there at an angle, and I can imagine the edges might start digging in. I will try to tap the dropout back together a little bit; it is widened. But maybe I should leave well enough alone in this particular part of the bicycle. Is it well enough as long as the axle stays fixed?

I haven't seen this before. I don't see any way the axle could wear away that much steel. I'm going to make a wild guess. I think it was filed away deliberately in a ham bone effort to center the rim inside of the brake pads.Which is a shame since there's a user friendly way of doing that short of having someone with the skill and tools to realign the frame. There's a washer on the brake that's curved to fit the small mounting tube on the frame with a channel on the other side to hold the spring. If you rotate that washer 180 degrees so the channel is away from the spring and only the flat part of the washer is against the spring, it allows you to tip the caliper and center the pads to the rim. The channel isn't necessary to hold the spring. Works fine.

It looks like a larger diameter axle was pushed in, although that doesn't explain why the other dropout is fine.

You can fixed a splayed stamped dropout using a Record bench vice lined with hardwood. Or a similar vice.

Brass would work, but I'd be afraid that it would wear back in there. Filler rod welded in and filed down would be tougher, and you don't need a framebuilder to do it.

[MENTION=149661]carfreefamily[/MENTION] Where are you located? If somewhere near Madison, WI, I can help out with the TIG welding route. Feel free to DM if you are close and interested in that.

EDIT: Nevermind - I see you are in New Mexico given Charlie O'Leary is your local framebuilder.

I've already enlisted Charlie's help. I'm going to take the bike over to him on the 23rd. He said it would be about $75, which doesn't seem too bad. Of course, he hasn't seen anything except a photograph yet. I tried to find some NOS rear dropouts - I thought that might be more secure than filling in what's there, and how much more could it be to buy and have the dropouts replaced, another $75? But there doesn't seem to have been anyone with huge boxes of unused Raleigh dropouts sitting around.

Still, my $120 Craigslist find is growing more expensive by the week.

I have the frame almost stripped down. I couldn't get the fixed cup off, even with the Bikesmith tool for it, but I have the bottom bracket off. Everything looks rust-free in there. The kickstand had flattened the chainstays a little bit, (of course), but nothing that seems too bad. It's probably been ridden that way for decades. And there are a few little dents here and there, but nothing major.

I have thought about getting Charlie to sandblast and powdercoat the frame, since I will pretty much have everything off, (and could probably have him pull and put back the headset). However, I kind of like the patina of the black spray paint haphazardly applied over the original green, which shows through here and there. I just have to decide how to cover up the bare and rusty spots. Luckily, the rust is superficial. A nice durable clear coat would be fun.