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1971 Bianchi build

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1971 Bianchi build

Old 11-19-22, 03:52 PM
  #76  
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Decided to tackle the issue of a standard binder bolt not fitting in the holes of the seat lug ears.
It occurred to me that maybe the edges of the holes were deformed from using other fastening approaches. A small screwdriver sliding along the bor towards the out side of the hold confirmed the deformation. A tapered reamer was used to lightly dress the outside edges of the hole.
The bolt slipped right in.
This is what was used to clamp the post upon arrival
71BianchiSeatLug Bolt on Flickr

Using a standard 6mm socket binder bolt, likely not the original configuration as there is a key notch on one side, Patina and all. I have come to appreciate the history the chips and overall condition of the paint.
71BianchiDone15 on Flickr
71BianchiDone16 on Flickr

Given the overall appearance will not change significantly from this point on. Additiions are few an far between.
Thanks for all that subscribed, added comments, information, and advice!
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Old 11-19-22, 05:07 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by SJX426 View Post
Decided to tackle the issue of a standard binder bolt not fitting in the holes of the seat lug ears.
It occurred to me that maybe the edges of the holes were deformed from using other fastening approaches. A small screwdriver sliding along the bor towards the out side of the hold confirmed the deformation. A tapered reamer was used to lightly dress the outside edges of the hole.
The bolt slipped right in.
This is what was used to clamp the post upon arrival
71BianchiSeatLug Bolt on Flickr

Using a standard 6mm socket binder bolt, likely not the original configuration as there is a key notch on one side, Patina and all. I have come to appreciate the history the chips and overall condition of the paint.
71BianchiDone15 on Flickr
71BianchiDone16 on Flickr

Given the overall appearance will not change significantly from this point on. Additiions are few an far between.
Thanks for all that subscribed, added comments, information, and advice!
You have to be glad when its no worse than it was here and can be mitigated with normal superpowers.
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Old 11-21-22, 10:27 AM
  #78  
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I sure like the look of this bike! It has just the right amount of "history" witness that says it has been enjoyed....and lives on. Good job and enjoy the journey. Joe
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Old 12-01-22, 10:10 AM
  #79  
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You guys may be too nice to me but I think I placed the DT decals too close to the BB. I don't like where the fork decals are located either. They should have been about 1/8th to 1/4" higher.
The DT shifters are too low too. Good used cable worked but doesn't allow for moving it up.

After looking at a number of frames, it appears that the end of the ST decal and the DT decal should be about level. I was looking at the spacing between the chain rings and the seat cluster for the ST and the shifters for the DT. My bad.
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Old 01-02-23, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by SJX426 View Post
Aging process is also up for consideration. Any suggestions? Intense UV light? Weathering Aging Decals Trains4Africa
Thanks for the link, I'm trying to preserve the original paint and decals on a vintage Raleigh but the vintage Carlton crests on the seat tube and fork blades are completely gone. I want to replace them but didn't want them looking new, I will try this on something else first but it looks like it will give the desired weathering.
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Old 01-02-23, 08:48 AM
  #81  
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@Murray Missile - I decided not to age the decals. The bike looks pretty good at 10 ft without aging them as shown in the first pic of #75.

I am now looking for a way to mount a water bottle cage. The old style clamps, that capture the top and the bottom tang of the cage, are not easily found anymore.
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Old 01-02-23, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by SJX426 View Post
@Murray Missile - I decided not to age the decals. The bike looks pretty good at 10 ft without aging them as shown in the first pic of #75.

I am now looking for a way to mount a water bottle cage. The old style clamps, that capture the top and the bottom tang of the cage, are not easily found anymore.
Yes, that is a nice looking bike as is, I can understand the decision. The decals I'm trying to save are pretty weathered but all there, the decals I'm replacing just aren't there and to me a Worksop (Carlton) built Raleigh isn't complete without them. I'm fortunate in the bottle cage dept. for this particular bike, a '72 Comeptiton. I had this little jewel in the stash. An ALE from the same era. Needs some cleanup but it's in about the same condition as the frameset so it will be a perfect match.

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Old 01-02-23, 09:55 AM
  #83  
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@Murray Missile - Those are the type of clamps I am looking for. Good you have that assembly!
I may have one clamp but need to check the stash for the second.
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Old 01-02-23, 10:10 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by merziac View Post
@SJX426

You're welcome. anytime.

If that hole is threaded it may be for a zerk or oldschool fliptop port.

I did a lot of hand wringing when Randy put this up, and a lot more as it stayed up, had it been any bigger.....

This is a fantastic get IMO, when do we ever see an old one like this for any sane $$$?

It may or may not be one of the most desirable ones by the book, who cares, again its fantastic no matter what and you would have to spend much more time and $$$$$ to do any better if at all.

We all know how "stupid" these can be.

I bought a way too small bottom of the line older one similar to this just because and it has some ok parts on it, maybe it will bring me a better bigger one.
the threaded hole in the headtube is for a slotted pan head screw- it is for adding oil to the grease.

that added dimple to the chainstay is a dent.
who knows how it got there, by force somehow.

Steerer is probably Falck tubing.

even Bianchi could not keep Celeste color matched. There was a blog somewhere that made mention of the basic formula-
yellow, blue, white and black!
the black helps knock back the intensity.
there were basic ratios but one really has to go by eye.

Last edited by repechage; 01-02-23 at 10:15 AM.
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Old 01-02-23, 11:00 AM
  #85  
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Several of the big bicycle aftermarket parts places sell strap style band type clamps. these are cheap and allow use of more modern bottle cages. They don’t look too bad.
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Old 01-02-23, 02:21 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by repechage View Post
the threaded hole in the headtube is for a slotted pan head screw- it is for adding oil to the grease.

that added dimple to the chainstay is a dent.
who knows how it got there, by force somehow.

Steerer is probably Falck tubing.

even Bianchi could not keep Celeste color matched. There was a blog somewhere that made mention of the basic formula-
yellow, blue, white and black!
the black helps knock back the intensity.
there were basic ratios but one really has to go by eye.
Yep, seen the screw before, have seen zerk's and ports as well.

Really glad this frame found a good home, it was saved from what would likely have been a much lesser fate.

@SJX426 did a fantastic job on it IMO.
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Old 01-04-23, 08:18 AM
  #87  
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@merziac - thanks for the kind words!

I found what I needed for mounting a bottle cage. If I could find another pair....


I could mount a bottle cage on the Bottecchia.
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Old 01-19-23, 02:50 AM
  #88  
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absolute stunner! Where did you get those Decals from?
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Old 01-19-23, 04:51 AM
  #89  
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@Positron400 - Thanks! I like it too! I think they are products of VeloCals. They were purchased with the bike frame.

Fortunately, the decals ended up on paint that did not have any dings.
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Old 01-27-23, 09:01 AM
  #90  
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Finally finished and ready to ride.
Purchased the TS-2 from @obrentharris, thank you, it was well used and working fine for a limited range so disassembled and cleaned it up. Pulled a front wheel with uniform dish on both sides and calibrated the stand forks. Then did the final truing on the Bianchi wheels, which needed it.
Glued the tires on and polished the rims. Or polished the rear rim then mounted the tire. Front rim was polished after gluing the tire on, mistake. Now have to clean the side walls.

Closing shot for this thread.
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Old 01-27-23, 06:18 PM
  #91  
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It came out great!! Beautiful build SJX426!! Everything just looks right on this one!

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Old 01-27-23, 06:25 PM
  #92  
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Nice Work....the Bianchi is gorgeous!
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Old 01-28-23, 08:42 AM
  #93  
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Extremely classy!
(try doing that with a 20yo Carbon frame )
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Old 01-28-23, 12:31 PM
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Celeste at its best!
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Old 02-08-23, 02:32 PM
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Thank you all for your positive comments! I am a bit smitten by it myself.
Took it out for a trial run of about 8-10 blocks just to see how it feels. NICE! Not twitch like the new bikes in the stable.
First impression was the gearing, really high. Funny I never checked it out. Rings are 54/46!. I selected a close block in the back to make it more period correct with 14-22 in 2 tooth increments. No wonder I couldn't find a slightly used chain long enough!

The other issue is the HS. it was loose prior to the ride. Then I remembered that I really don't have a tool to lock it in place. Any suggestions?
71BianchiTopHS on Flickr
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Old 02-08-23, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by SJX426 View Post
Thank you all for your positive comments! I am a bit smitten by it myself.
Took it out for a trial run of about 8-10 blocks just to see how it feels. NICE! Not twitch like the new bikes in the stable.
First impression was the gearing, really high. Funny I never checked it out. Rings are 54/46!. I selected a close block in the back to make it more period correct with 14-22 in 2 tooth increments. No wonder I couldn't find a slightly used chain long enough!

The other issue is the HS. it was loose prior to the ride. Then I remembered that I really don't have a tool to lock it in place. Any suggestions?
71BianchiTopHS on Flickr
This, applied carefully.

https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Spanner-Chromium-Vanadium-Bearings/dp/B08THHCW7N/ref=sr_1_19?keywords=adjustable+hook+spanner+wrench&qid=1675890385&sr=8-19


I also use leather to insulate the fitting from
Channel Locks.
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Old 02-09-23, 06:39 AM
  #97  
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@merziac - I looked at those but the diameter of the pin, 3/16, is more than twice the diameter of the hole, ~2mm. Couldn't find one with that small a pin. My suspicion is it would require a pin made of much stronger material.
I may have to make on by modifying a tool.
A 3/32 drift punch fits really well.
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Old 02-09-23, 07:02 AM
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I have a Unimat lathe, which uses “Tommy bars” to tighten the chuck. I thought they were smaller in diameter than these listed, you could modify, or just pick up some drill rod of the proper diameter.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/18573532307...IAAOSwEx5ffNpB
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Old 02-09-23, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by SJX426 View Post
@merziac - I looked at those but the diameter of the pin, 3/16, is more than twice the diameter of the hole, ~2mm. Couldn't find one with that small a pin. My suspicion is it would require a pin made of much stronger material.
I may have to make on by modifying a tool.
A 3/32 drift punch fits really well.
I figured as much, they are cheap, should be able to Dremel the pin down then I would rig up zip ties or a clamp of some sort to hold it in place and be able to lean on it.

Or maybe cut off a couple of the punches short to use as levers in opposing holes, for temporary if nothing else.

Last edited by merziac; 02-09-23 at 12:54 PM.
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Old 02-09-23, 01:00 PM
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@merziacI have an extra adjustable wrench that opens to 30mm, fits around the HS lock nut. 3/32 dirft and 8 drill bits ordered. Going to drill a hole in the fixed part of the wrench at the rright locations.
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