1971 Bianchi build
11-19-22, 03:52 PM
#76
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Decided to tackle the issue of a standard binder bolt not fitting in the holes of the seat lug ears.
It occurred to me that maybe the edges of the holes were deformed from using other fastening approaches. A small screwdriver sliding along the bor towards the out side of the hold confirmed the deformation. A tapered reamer was used to lightly dress the outside edges of the hole.
The bolt slipped right in.
This is what was used to clamp the post upon arrival
71BianchiSeatLug Bolt on Flickr
Using a standard 6mm socket binder bolt, likely not the original configuration as there is a key notch on one side, Patina and all. I have come to appreciate the history the chips and overall condition of the paint.
71BianchiDone15 on Flickr
71BianchiDone16 on Flickr
Given the overall appearance will not change significantly from this point on. Additiions are few an far between.
Thanks for all that subscribed, added comments, information, and advice!
It occurred to me that maybe the edges of the holes were deformed from using other fastening approaches. A small screwdriver sliding along the bor towards the out side of the hold confirmed the deformation. A tapered reamer was used to lightly dress the outside edges of the hole.
The bolt slipped right in.
This is what was used to clamp the post upon arrival
71BianchiSeatLug Bolt on FlickrUsing a standard 6mm socket binder bolt, likely not the original configuration as there is a key notch on one side, Patina and all. I have come to appreciate the history the chips and overall condition of the paint.
71BianchiDone15 on Flickr71BianchiDone16 on FlickrGiven the overall appearance will not change significantly from this point on. Additiions are few an far between.
Thanks for all that subscribed, added comments, information, and advice!
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11-19-22, 05:07 PM
#77
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Originally Posted by SJX426
Decided to tackle the issue of a standard binder bolt not fitting in the holes of the seat lug ears.
It occurred to me that maybe the edges of the holes were deformed from using other fastening approaches. A small screwdriver sliding along the bor towards the out side of the hold confirmed the deformation. A tapered reamer was used to lightly dress the outside edges of the hole.
The bolt slipped right in.
This is what was used to clamp the post upon arrival
71BianchiSeatLug Bolt on Flickr
Using a standard 6mm socket binder bolt, likely not the original configuration as there is a key notch on one side, Patina and all. I have come to appreciate the history the chips and overall condition of the paint.
71BianchiDone15 on Flickr
71BianchiDone16 on Flickr
Given the overall appearance will not change significantly from this point on. Additiions are few an far between.
Thanks for all that subscribed, added comments, information, and advice!
It occurred to me that maybe the edges of the holes were deformed from using other fastening approaches. A small screwdriver sliding along the bor towards the out side of the hold confirmed the deformation. A tapered reamer was used to lightly dress the outside edges of the hole.
The bolt slipped right in.
This is what was used to clamp the post upon arrival
71BianchiSeatLug Bolt on FlickrUsing a standard 6mm socket binder bolt, likely not the original configuration as there is a key notch on one side, Patina and all. I have come to appreciate the history the chips and overall condition of the paint.
71BianchiDone15 on Flickr71BianchiDone16 on FlickrGiven the overall appearance will not change significantly from this point on. Additiions are few an far between.
Thanks for all that subscribed, added comments, information, and advice!
11-21-22, 10:27 AM
#78
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I sure like the look of this bike! It has just the right amount of "history" witness that says it has been enjoyed....and lives on. Good job and enjoy the journey. Joe
12-01-22, 10:10 AM
#79
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You guys may be too nice to me but I think I placed the DT decals too close to the BB. I don't like where the fork decals are located either. They should have been about 1/8th to 1/4" higher.
The DT shifters are too low too. Good used cable worked but doesn't allow for moving it up.
After looking at a number of frames, it appears that the end of the ST decal and the DT decal should be about level. I was looking at the spacing between the chain rings and the seat cluster for the ST and the shifters for the DT. My bad.
The DT shifters are too low too. Good used cable worked but doesn't allow for moving it up.
After looking at a number of frames, it appears that the end of the ST decal and the DT decal should be about level. I was looking at the spacing between the chain rings and the seat cluster for the ST and the shifters for the DT. My bad.
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01-02-23, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by SJX426
Aging process is also up for consideration. Any suggestions? Intense UV light? Weathering – Aging Decals – Trains4Africa
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01-02-23, 08:48 AM
#81
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@Murray Missile - I decided not to age the decals. The bike looks pretty good at 10 ft without aging them as shown in the first pic of #75.
I am now looking for a way to mount a water bottle cage. The old style clamps, that capture the top and the bottom tang of the cage, are not easily found anymore.
I am now looking for a way to mount a water bottle cage. The old style clamps, that capture the top and the bottom tang of the cage, are not easily found anymore.
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01-02-23, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by SJX426
@Murray Missile - I decided not to age the decals. The bike looks pretty good at 10 ft without aging them as shown in the first pic of #75.
I am now looking for a way to mount a water bottle cage. The old style clamps, that capture the top and the bottom tang of the cage, are not easily found anymore.
I am now looking for a way to mount a water bottle cage. The old style clamps, that capture the top and the bottom tang of the cage, are not easily found anymore.
The decals I'm trying to save are pretty weathered but all there, the decals I'm replacing just aren't there and to me a Worksop (Carlton) built Raleigh isn't complete without them. I'm fortunate in the bottle cage dept. for this particular bike, a '72 Comeptiton. I had this little jewel in the stash. An ALE from the same era. Needs some cleanup but it's in about the same condition as the frameset so it will be a perfect match.
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01-02-23, 09:55 AM
#83
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@Murray Missile - Those are the type of clamps I am looking for. Good you have that assembly!
I may have one clamp but need to check the stash for the second.
I may have one clamp but need to check the stash for the second.
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01-02-23, 10:10 AM
#84
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Originally Posted by merziac
@SJX426
You're welcome. anytime.
If that hole is threaded it may be for a zerk or oldschool fliptop port.
I did a lot of hand wringing when Randy put this up, and a lot more as it stayed up, had it been any bigger.....
This is a fantastic get IMO, when do we ever see an old one like this for any sane $$$?
It may or may not be one of the most desirable ones by the book, who cares, again its fantastic no matter what and you would have to spend much more time and $$$$$ to do any better if at all.
We all know how "stupid" these can be.
I bought a way too small bottom of the line older one similar to this just because and it has some ok parts on it, maybe it will bring me a better bigger one.
You're welcome. anytime.
If that hole is threaded it may be for a zerk or oldschool fliptop port.
I did a lot of hand wringing when Randy put this up, and a lot more as it stayed up, had it been any bigger.....
This is a fantastic get IMO, when do we ever see an old one like this for any sane $$$?
It may or may not be one of the most desirable ones by the book, who cares, again its fantastic no matter what and you would have to spend much more time and $$$$$ to do any better if at all.
We all know how "stupid" these can be.
I bought a way too small bottom of the line older one similar to this just because and it has some ok parts on it, maybe it will bring me a better bigger one.
that added dimple to the chainstay is a dent.
who knows how it got there, by force somehow.
Steerer is probably Falck tubing.
even Bianchi could not keep Celeste color matched. There was a blog somewhere that made mention of the basic formula-
yellow, blue, white and black!
the black helps knock back the intensity.
there were basic ratios but one really has to go by eye.
Last edited by repechage; 01-02-23 at 10:15 AM.
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01-02-23, 11:00 AM
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Several of the big bicycle aftermarket parts places sell strap style band type clamps. these are cheap and allow use of more modern bottle cages. They don’t look too bad.
01-02-23, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by repechage
the threaded hole in the headtube is for a slotted pan head screw- it is for adding oil to the grease.
that added dimple to the chainstay is a dent.
who knows how it got there, by force somehow.
Steerer is probably Falck tubing.
even Bianchi could not keep Celeste color matched. There was a blog somewhere that made mention of the basic formula-
yellow, blue, white and black!
the black helps knock back the intensity.
there were basic ratios but one really has to go by eye.
that added dimple to the chainstay is a dent.
who knows how it got there, by force somehow.
Steerer is probably Falck tubing.
even Bianchi could not keep Celeste color matched. There was a blog somewhere that made mention of the basic formula-
yellow, blue, white and black!
the black helps knock back the intensity.
there were basic ratios but one really has to go by eye.
Really glad this frame found a good home, it was saved from what would likely have been a much lesser fate.
@SJX426 did a fantastic job on it IMO.
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01-04-23, 08:18 AM
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@merziac - thanks for the kind words!
I found what I needed for mounting a bottle cage. If I could find another pair....
I could mount a bottle cage on the Bottecchia.
I found what I needed for mounting a bottle cage. If I could find another pair....
I could mount a bottle cage on the Bottecchia.
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01-19-23, 04:51 AM
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@Positron400 - Thanks! I like it too! I think they are products of VeloCals. They were purchased with the bike frame.
Fortunately, the decals ended up on paint that did not have any dings.
Fortunately, the decals ended up on paint that did not have any dings.
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01-27-23, 09:01 AM
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Finally finished and ready to ride.
Purchased the TS-2 from @obrentharris, thank you, it was well used and working fine for a limited range so disassembled and cleaned it up. Pulled a front wheel with uniform dish on both sides and calibrated the stand forks. Then did the final truing on the Bianchi wheels, which needed it.
Glued the tires on and polished the rims. Or polished the rear rim then mounted the tire. Front rim was polished after gluing the tire on, mistake. Now have to clean the side walls.
Closing shot for this thread.
Purchased the TS-2 from @obrentharris, thank you, it was well used and working fine for a limited range so disassembled and cleaned it up. Pulled a front wheel with uniform dish on both sides and calibrated the stand forks. Then did the final truing on the Bianchi wheels, which needed it.
Glued the tires on and polished the rims. Or polished the rear rim then mounted the tire. Front rim was polished after gluing the tire on, mistake. Now have to clean the side walls.
Closing shot for this thread.
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01-27-23, 06:18 PM
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01-27-23, 06:25 PM
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Nice Work....the Bianchi is gorgeous!
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02-08-23, 02:32 PM
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Thank you all for your positive comments! I am a bit smitten by it myself.
Took it out for a trial run of about 8-10 blocks just to see how it feels. NICE! Not twitch like the new bikes in the stable.
First impression was the gearing, really high. Funny I never checked it out. Rings are 54/46!. I selected a close block in the back to make it more period correct with 14-22 in 2 tooth increments. No wonder I couldn't find a slightly used chain long enough!
The other issue is the HS. it was loose prior to the ride. Then I remembered that I really don't have a tool to lock it in place. Any suggestions?
71BianchiTopHS on Flickr
Took it out for a trial run of about 8-10 blocks just to see how it feels. NICE! Not twitch like the new bikes in the stable.
First impression was the gearing, really high. Funny I never checked it out. Rings are 54/46!. I selected a close block in the back to make it more period correct with 14-22 in 2 tooth increments. No wonder I couldn't find a slightly used chain long enough!
The other issue is the HS. it was loose prior to the ride. Then I remembered that I really don't have a tool to lock it in place. Any suggestions?
71BianchiTopHS on Flickr
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02-08-23, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by SJX426
Thank you all for your positive comments! I am a bit smitten by it myself.
Took it out for a trial run of about 8-10 blocks just to see how it feels. NICE! Not twitch like the new bikes in the stable.
First impression was the gearing, really high. Funny I never checked it out. Rings are 54/46!. I selected a close block in the back to make it more period correct with 14-22 in 2 tooth increments. No wonder I couldn't find a slightly used chain long enough!
The other issue is the HS. it was loose prior to the ride. Then I remembered that I really don't have a tool to lock it in place. Any suggestions?
71BianchiTopHS on Flickr
Took it out for a trial run of about 8-10 blocks just to see how it feels. NICE! Not twitch like the new bikes in the stable.
First impression was the gearing, really high. Funny I never checked it out. Rings are 54/46!. I selected a close block in the back to make it more period correct with 14-22 in 2 tooth increments. No wonder I couldn't find a slightly used chain long enough!
The other issue is the HS. it was loose prior to the ride. Then I remembered that I really don't have a tool to lock it in place. Any suggestions?
71BianchiTopHS on Flickrhttps://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Spanner-Chromium-Vanadium-Bearings/dp/B08THHCW7N/ref=sr_1_19?keywords=adjustable+hook+spanner+wrench&qid=1675890385&sr=8-19
I also use leather to insulate the fitting from Channel Locks.
02-09-23, 06:39 AM
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@merziac - I looked at those but the diameter of the pin, 3/16, is more than twice the diameter of the hole, ~2mm. Couldn't find one with that small a pin. My suspicion is it would require a pin made of much stronger material.
I may have to make on by modifying a tool.
A 3/32 drift punch fits really well.
I may have to make on by modifying a tool.
A 3/32 drift punch fits really well.
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02-09-23, 07:02 AM
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I have a Unimat lathe, which uses “Tommy bars” to tighten the chuck. I thought they were smaller in diameter than these listed, you could modify, or just pick up some drill rod of the proper diameter.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/18573532307...IAAOSwEx5ffNpB
https://www.ebay.com/itm/18573532307...IAAOSwEx5ffNpB
02-09-23, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by SJX426
@merziac - I looked at those but the diameter of the pin, 3/16, is more than twice the diameter of the hole, ~2mm. Couldn't find one with that small a pin. My suspicion is it would require a pin made of much stronger material.
I may have to make on by modifying a tool.
A 3/32 drift punch fits really well.
I may have to make on by modifying a tool.
A 3/32 drift punch fits really well.
Or maybe cut off a couple of the punches short to use as levers in opposing holes, for temporary if nothing else.
Last edited by merziac; 02-09-23 at 12:54 PM.
02-09-23, 01:00 PM
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@merziacI have an extra adjustable wrench that opens to 30mm, fits around the HS lock nut. 3/32 dirft and 8 drill bits ordered. Going to drill a hole in the fixed part of the wrench at the rright locations.
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