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Originally Posted by jgedwa
(Post 5300662)
Heresy! You are voted out of the club.
jim I'm able to do this because the Trek 520 I sold on eBay went for $417.00. I still have the Craigslist Schwinn LeTour (coming soon), the Miyata 210, and the (I expect) Bob Jackson yet to go to contribute to the bike fund. |
Okay then. The mere fact that you use the phrase "bike fund" means you are still one of us.
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Still looking for an Arabesque 600 FD, and an adjuster mount/nut/stud for a Mafac Racer/Competition brake lever. My bike fund just jumped up nicely, sold a Giant Simple 7, hehe.,,,,BD
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WTB 36 spokes with nipples, butted preferred. 292mm
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Originally Posted by CV-6
(Post 5306208)
WTB 36 spokes with nipples, butted preferred. 292mm
:roflmao: Couldn't resist that gag. Sorry. ;) -Kurt |
I'm looking for a Peugeot headtube decal/transfer.
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Anyone have an extra inch of Sedis chain? I'd like to grow this chain by one inch. I'm told this is a Sachs Sedis GT-7 chain.
Many thanks! http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...l_09-21-07.jpg |
WANTED:
700C road fork w/1" threadless steerer. Approximately 300mm steerer needed, can be a bit smaller. Aluminum or steel. -Kurt |
wtb parts or sell/trade Cannondale bike
Wanted: Rear derailleur, f/r brakes, downtube shifters. Suntour a-3000 series or similar.
-or- Sell: Mid-80s(?) Cannondale "Sport" 52cm(?) road/touring bike. Cheap. Apart. -or- Trade: Above bike for mid-80s mid-level steel 12sp. Here's the story: Last Spring, I bought a used, early Cannondale road bike. Frame says it's a "Sport", the headbadge is a railroad station/track logo I'd never seen associated with Cannondale before. Even though it says "Sport" on the seat tube, the rear wheel is kicked out back far enough on longish chainstays to qualify as a tourer and there are eyelets halfway down the fork for touring-style front rack mounting. Suntour a(alpha)-3000 drivetrain with downtube shifters (rear has index/friction option), Diacomp brakes. Mismatched rims, unknown hubs. It looks like the bike was stored outside pretty much indefinitely. Most likely, somewhere near the coast. Lots of corrosion. All exposed aluminum was showing moderate oxidation, all steel was showing spots here and there of rust, there are some spots on the frame, like around the top-tube plastic cable guides, where the paint (powder coat?) was bubbled up with frame oxidization showing through. Second time I rode it, the rusty front derailleur cable snapped and I replaced it. This weekend, I finally got around to tearing it down properly... Keep in mind that last weekend, I rebuilt my commuter Cannondale. It's a early-90s Beast of the East M800 mtn bike frame I built from the ground up after getting a screaming deal from a LBS where it had been on the wall gathering dust for years. It was getting a bit creaky and dirty after years of use and neglect, so I took it down to the frame, cleaned and repacked everything, and put it back together. Felt great, felt like a new bike. And it's fun just playing around with different layouts, trying out different configurations, getting things back up and running, doing my own maintenance. Very rewarding. This weekend was a bit different. I've worked on older bikes and motorcycles before, so the night before, I hit everything with PB blaster, thinking I was a wicked smart monkey. Not that it made a difference. Here's the difficulties I've run into: - Right brake screw stuck making it impossible to remove from the handlebar. Flathead bolt stripped, even a manual impact driver had no effect. - Stem bolt fused in stem. From the top, I can see that the aluminum stem is oxidized and the bolt is rusty. At this point I am remembering dire warnings regarding dissimilar metals being in contact with each other without the application of anti-sieze. - Front and rear brake adjuster barrels fused with brake adjuster seat, impossible to adust. Another shot of PB Blaster, wait, attack with vice-grips, and the first one shears at the adjuster head. Garh! - Rear derailleur coil-spring housing is plastic and cracked. Maybe still usable, but not very heartening or confidence inspiring. - One shifter is totally frozen together, on the other, the spent cable appears to be corrosion welded into place. I know if I try to force any of this, something else will break... - The plastic crank bolt covers crumbled when I tried to remove them, necessitating careful application of hammer and screwdriver to get them out. - Couldn't seem to get crank-puller to thread into the crank. Maybe a more modern one doesn't fit? Maybe I totally screwed up the threads using a hammer and screwdriver on the freaking covers? Seemed like everything I touched on the bike is a problem. The stem is actually perfect, so I don't really *have* to remove it to look at the headset bearings. Cranks spin fine, so I don't really need to remove them to look at the bottom bracket. Wheels spin fine and are true, so I didn't try to remove the freewheel cassette or look at the bearings. But long term... So what to do? Sell it off/scrap for parts and cut my losses? Add brakes and convert it to single speed? Find replacement parts and ride it for as long as it will go before something goes wrong in another part I know will be an absoulte b1tch to deal with? For me, the debate is whether I want to deal with this bike or find another vintage (affordable) 12sp for road/commuter use. Anyone in the Seacoast NH/ME area interested in this bike? Partially disassembled, would cut a real good deal on it, or swap whole project for 80s mid-grade (531 or similar) steel bike/frame. 53cm wanted--no size marked on the c'dale frame, but feels 52-ish. Anyone have some spare parts to give/sell? Looking for used, cheap/free--"cosmetically challenged" is certainly OK. Need: bolt-on brake calipers f/r, rear derailleur (looks like med- to long-cage, def. not short), downtube shifters (shifter bosses are brazed on). Any make, model, or mix would do. I like older bikes. I hate working on older bikes neglected to the point that things brake when you try to work on them... |
Wanted: an internal gear rear hub or wheel.
also, a small-medium sized frame with very upright geometry I have a pretty good collection of bikes, frames, and parts that could be traded. Some high-end stuff, but much more medium-level stuff. jim |
Originally Posted by jgedwa
(Post 5329277)
Wanted: an internal gear rear hub or wheel.
also, a small-medium sized frame with very upright geometry I have a pretty good collection of bikes, frames, and parts that could be traded. Some high-end stuff, but much more medium-level stuff. jim -Kurt |
I could be flexible. I am just putting ideas together for a build for the SO, so I am open to crazy ideas.
jim |
Originally Posted by TBART
(Post 5331862)
WTB or trade for a set of Kelly Take-Offs
Where I got my last pair Top |
WTB drop bars for my Schwinn Continental refurb, Hopefully in good condition and alloy not chrome steel. Center of bars where they attatch to stem should be 1 inch diameter or really close to that. Send private message via forum with info and price. Thanks
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Source for Avocet saddles
Greetings!
Does anyone know of a source for Avocet O2Air40R saddles? Thanks! Regards, Jefferito |
WTB - A set of usable Bullseye jockey wheels for my NR derailleur. I'm hoping somebody knows of a set collecting dust somewhere.
Thanks, Mateo |
Originally Posted by velomateo
(Post 5338349)
WTB - A set of usable Bullseye jockey wheels for my NR derailleur. I'm hoping somebody knows of a set collecting dust somewhere.
Thanks, Mateo |
WTB: Pair of 32H Mavic CXP-12/14/30
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Originally Posted by bikemore
(Post 5281862)
Actually, I posted after going to Bikes Not Bombs here in Boston. They ship used bikes to various
poor parts of the world. They save some of the better parts of the bikes to sell for financing their activity. One of these days I will post a picture of their bike pile - at least 3000 bikes last time I saw it. There is also Broadway Bicycle school that has an inventory of used parts, but they always look to me to be picked over. I donno of any other bike shop in the Boston area that has a good selection of vintage bike parts. I don't recall seeing anyone selling older adjusting barrels on ebay. I have see boxes of parts (for example see here http://sporting-goods.search.ebay.co...sassZsuesmccoy), but nothing like the above. Perhaps I am not looking hard enough (reading ebay listings is my prime way of avoiding work). I checked the Yellow Jersey website, didn't see anything there. It seems like this is a common enough problem, there are lots of old raleighs out there. I a little surprised that there are some approach to this problem. According to the rules for posting, I am supposed to delete my request when I found this. I got one from nlerner, thanks Neil. Turns out Yellow Jersey has them. You just have to call. Thanks everyone for your help. |
Wanted:
Downtube shifters (clamp on), preferrably Huret Short brake lever "pins", ie to subtract safety levers. Do these exist somewhere? OR new levers without safety levers Gum or black non-aero hoods |
Originally Posted by dwoloz
(Post 5369762)
Wanted:
Downtube shifters (clamp on), preferrably Huret Short brake lever "pins", ie to subtract safety levers. Do these exist somewhere? OR new levers without safety levers Gum or black non-aero hoods |
1) I have a set of Huret clamp-on levers.
2) Dismount the safety levers, whack off what offends you and dress with a file, and cover with this: http://www.thethirdhand.com/index.cg...d=390263230825 Top |
Originally Posted by top506
(Post 5371166)
1) I have a set of Huret clamp-on levers.
2) Dismount the safety levers, whack off what offends you and dress with a file, and cover with this: http://www.thethirdhand.com/index.cg...d=390263230825 Top |
I just got the EAI gum hoods locally and they were $20, oh well. Anyone have a good tip for getting thiem on? They seem to be a pain to get on.
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Wanted (for my '70 Paramount - no substitutes unless noted):
*Weinmann, Super Champion, Mavic, or equivalent period 27" polished aluminum clincher rims, like these or similar: http://i23.ebayimg.com/01/i/000/b9/5c/3a6b_12.JPG http://i3.ebayimg.com/02/i/000/aa/a5/c475_12.JPG *Weinmann non-aero brakeset w/gum hoods, or just the WEINMANN gum hoods, as you see here: http://i10.ebayimg.com/05/i/000/b7/8e/642b_1.JPG *Weinmann centerpull cable stop w/quick release lever for headset mounting (front) and seatlug binder mouting (rear) *Nuovo Record rear hub, high-flange, 126mm spacing *Nuovo Record shifter bosses, clamp-on. Only need the clamp - I have all the other hardware. Thanks a heap! -Kurt |
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