Retro roadies- old frames with STI's or Ergos
#5151
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Almost finished neo-retro Huissoon Columbus SLX ride.
Light-Bicycle 55mm rims on Novatec Classic (Ambrosio) hubs, Schwalbe One tubeless 28mm and 25mm tyres, Woolfteeth narrow-wide 44T chainring, Campy Monoplaner brakes, VO Grand Cru handlebars and... vinyl wrap emulating chrome...
/s1200.photobucket.com/user/Janusz_Gajos/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_6924_zpsnfwfy6tc.jpg.html][/URL]
photobucket.com/user/Janusz_Gajos/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_6908_zpsslymn72z.jpg.html][/URL]
Light-Bicycle 55mm rims on Novatec Classic (Ambrosio) hubs, Schwalbe One tubeless 28mm and 25mm tyres, Woolfteeth narrow-wide 44T chainring, Campy Monoplaner brakes, VO Grand Cru handlebars and... vinyl wrap emulating chrome...
/s1200.photobucket.com/user/Janusz_Gajos/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_6924_zpsnfwfy6tc.jpg.html][/URL]
photobucket.com/user/Janusz_Gajos/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_6908_zpsslymn72z.jpg.html][/URL]
#5152
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I'm thinking NO, considering he only has one chainring. . Nice bike.
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Cheers. From the start I was building it as a 1x10 (11) bike. I got used to a single ring on my commuter. I love its mechanical, visual and mental simplicity.
To make the frame truly single ring "compatible" I had the font mech tab and DT shifter bosses removed (replaced with a single cable stop ;-) The narrow wide chainring will take care of chain retention.
P.S. Still can't decide about the handlebar tape(s)...
To make the frame truly single ring "compatible" I had the font mech tab and DT shifter bosses removed (replaced with a single cable stop ;-) The narrow wide chainring will take care of chain retention.
P.S. Still can't decide about the handlebar tape(s)...
Last edited by Bartthebikeman; 12-30-15 at 01:34 PM.
#5155
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Bianchi Sprint 76 w/Campy Mirage/Veloce 9-spd
My "winter project" Bianchi Sprint 76.
I upgraded to Chorus 10-spd on the "nicer" bike, and put the castoff Mirage & Veloce 9-spd stuff onto this frame. Found the wheelset on eBay for surprisingly little money; and I'll put a white seat on it when I can.
It took a little fiddling, but with everything spread out, shimmed, hung and adjusted, it works beautifully. I'm surprised actually how nice it all turned out.
I upgraded to Chorus 10-spd on the "nicer" bike, and put the castoff Mirage & Veloce 9-spd stuff onto this frame. Found the wheelset on eBay for surprisingly little money; and I'll put a white seat on it when I can.
It took a little fiddling, but with everything spread out, shimmed, hung and adjusted, it works beautifully. I'm surprised actually how nice it all turned out.
#5156
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#5157
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Before I do the final cutting, I was wondering if anyone could comment on the cable routing and handlebar setup here? Campagnolo cables are expensive! And I'd like to leave a little slack to tweak the Ergopower shifter position if I find it uncomfortable. I have the shifter cables crossed in front of the head tube like I was recommended (to ensure no sharp angles). What about the rear brake cable? I have it taped just below the seat post. Should I have that loop up adjacent to the seat post?
PS-- ignore the red skewers...those have got to go! I am left with the tiny bit of red on the Miche hubs though.
PS-- ignore the red skewers...those have got to go! I am left with the tiny bit of red on the Miche hubs though.
Last edited by ppg677; 01-01-16 at 07:10 PM.
#5158
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All IMO, but since you asked...
If the brifters give you an option, then route the brake cables above and/or in front of the gear cables along the bars (I don't recall if you get an option to run the gear cable off the back of the bar with those brifters). If so, that would put the brake cables ahead of the gear cables (that's how I like to run them). That's a matter of preference though (again IMO on this part, some people don't like how the rear gear cable routing "flattens" the handlebar profile).
Otherwise, based on our current routing, it looks pretty good but I'd leave the rear brake cable just a little longer then they are in your mockup. The rear you don't want to rub against the frame by the seat post. The front I like to let take a concentric profile to the gear cables (it might do that now if you pinch the brakes in to where they will go when you're riding, need to see, you're pretty close on the front). The gear cables are just about right, but trim just a very slight bit off the RD cable to make them cross in the center of the head tube.
If I have AR'd crazy by now, just run it the way you have it. You're looking good, and it's likely to get messed up a bit just by riding it. Lovely frame, it will be a sweet ride.
If the brifters give you an option, then route the brake cables above and/or in front of the gear cables along the bars (I don't recall if you get an option to run the gear cable off the back of the bar with those brifters). If so, that would put the brake cables ahead of the gear cables (that's how I like to run them). That's a matter of preference though (again IMO on this part, some people don't like how the rear gear cable routing "flattens" the handlebar profile).
Otherwise, based on our current routing, it looks pretty good but I'd leave the rear brake cable just a little longer then they are in your mockup. The rear you don't want to rub against the frame by the seat post. The front I like to let take a concentric profile to the gear cables (it might do that now if you pinch the brakes in to where they will go when you're riding, need to see, you're pretty close on the front). The gear cables are just about right, but trim just a very slight bit off the RD cable to make them cross in the center of the head tube.
If I have AR'd crazy by now, just run it the way you have it. You're looking good, and it's likely to get messed up a bit just by riding it. Lovely frame, it will be a sweet ride.
#5159
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The cables look fine, though I'll defer to another's "expertise" on why they may need to be specifically one way or another. WRT the rear brake cable, that's how I've got mine routed, as you've taped yours, just below the seat post, and *not* adjacent.
The shifters look high to me; I'd have them a bit lower, but as you say, that's a matter of personal preference and comfort.
Nice looking bike!
The shifters look high to me; I'd have them a bit lower, but as you say, that's a matter of personal preference and comfort.
Nice looking bike!
#5160
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I'm sorta with Chrome Molly. With those setups, I'm pretty sure the Ergo's give you an option to route the shifter cables to the rear of the bar, and the brake cables to the front. Your preferences may vary, but I route them that way, and set up a flattish surface on the tops, with the brake cable forming the front of the "shelf" and the shifter cable forming the rear.
Also contrary to yours, I do not use so much cable, and try not to overlap my shifter cables in front of the head tube. I prefer to keep them either just touching or about1/2" apart, and of equal length. This requires they exit the bar wrap at pretty much the same point, and are cut to the same length. This does not inhibit smooth shifting on a 56cm frame, and I have little doubt, with the size of the frame you have there, it would be even less of a possibility.
For brake cable routing, I use the rear arc to remain away from the frame, but not rub the seatpost. There's generally a happy medium there, but again, I run 56cm frames. I try to follow the Drillium Dude concept, of having the same "bulge" outward on the cable for the front brake and the rear brake. In other words, the loop from the front Ergo over, outside the wrap and down to the caliper, leaves an amount of space between the cable housing and the head tube, when viewed from the front. I try to match that with the rear brake cable as it loops around the head tube and into the cable guides on the top tube, and then I let my rear "arc" settle in accordingly.
Call me somewhat symmetrical, but set the front up, and then take any extra off the rear brake cable that you need. The three top tube cable guides will "hold" that front arc the right size, just don't short yourself on the rear arc down to the caliper.
PS: I'd be very interested in those red skewers.
Also contrary to yours, I do not use so much cable, and try not to overlap my shifter cables in front of the head tube. I prefer to keep them either just touching or about1/2" apart, and of equal length. This requires they exit the bar wrap at pretty much the same point, and are cut to the same length. This does not inhibit smooth shifting on a 56cm frame, and I have little doubt, with the size of the frame you have there, it would be even less of a possibility.
For brake cable routing, I use the rear arc to remain away from the frame, but not rub the seatpost. There's generally a happy medium there, but again, I run 56cm frames. I try to follow the Drillium Dude concept, of having the same "bulge" outward on the cable for the front brake and the rear brake. In other words, the loop from the front Ergo over, outside the wrap and down to the caliper, leaves an amount of space between the cable housing and the head tube, when viewed from the front. I try to match that with the rear brake cable as it loops around the head tube and into the cable guides on the top tube, and then I let my rear "arc" settle in accordingly.
Call me somewhat symmetrical, but set the front up, and then take any extra off the rear brake cable that you need. The three top tube cable guides will "hold" that front arc the right size, just don't short yourself on the rear arc down to the caliper.
PS: I'd be very interested in those red skewers.
#5161
Senior Member
Thanks for the feedback. I'll trim that rear slightly and put more slack in the rear brake cable. The Ergopower shifters have the option to route the shifter cables to the rear of the bar, but I think I'm going to stick with the front. There is no option to put the brake above the shifters on the front.
Robbie, do you have any silver skewers for trade?
Robbie, do you have any silver skewers for trade?
#5163
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#5165
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#5166
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Firstly, thanks for all the contributors and creator of this post for the inspiration! I can't find any page in the internet where I'll see steel frame that has modern components. Most if not all photos in this post are awesome!
The plan was simply to get a all around bike to get fit. Found a nicely priced bike in a local group on Facebook and bought the bike at 530AM in the morning. Tinkering for days and weeks, I wasn't happy on the build. Then I started searching Google and stumbled on this post.
The Build:
Unknown frame: the original owner said that they got it in the 90's from someone in the US (I'm from Asia). I've asked around and someone said it might be a Taiwan made frame. The serial wasn't a help at all. I thought it was a Schwinn frame, but my local guy said otherwise.
Unknown lugged Hi-ten fork (made in Taiwan)
Shimano 105 5800 groupset
Fizik Arione CX
Fizik bartape
3TTT Raid quill stem
3TTT Record Grand Prix handle bar
FSA Duron headset
Shimano 105 5800 pedals
Unknown aero seatpost
Jagwire Road Pro Complete Kit
RS11 wheelset
Continental Grand Prix 4 seasons tyres
Small parts & accesories:
Nitto handle bar plugs
Sugino seatpost binder
Origin8 Dual Cage Mount
Lezyne Power Cage Alloy
Elite Water Bottle
Origin8 cable stop (for FD)
Uknown FD clamp adaptor
Uknown crank armor
Cateye Nima lights
Cateye Padrone
Jagwire Mickey adjuster
The plan was simply to get a all around bike to get fit. Found a nicely priced bike in a local group on Facebook and bought the bike at 530AM in the morning. Tinkering for days and weeks, I wasn't happy on the build. Then I started searching Google and stumbled on this post.
The Build:
Unknown frame: the original owner said that they got it in the 90's from someone in the US (I'm from Asia). I've asked around and someone said it might be a Taiwan made frame. The serial wasn't a help at all. I thought it was a Schwinn frame, but my local guy said otherwise.
Unknown lugged Hi-ten fork (made in Taiwan)
Shimano 105 5800 groupset
Fizik Arione CX
Fizik bartape
3TTT Raid quill stem
3TTT Record Grand Prix handle bar
FSA Duron headset
Shimano 105 5800 pedals
Unknown aero seatpost
Jagwire Road Pro Complete Kit
RS11 wheelset
Continental Grand Prix 4 seasons tyres
Small parts & accesories:
Nitto handle bar plugs
Sugino seatpost binder
Origin8 Dual Cage Mount
Lezyne Power Cage Alloy
Elite Water Bottle
Origin8 cable stop (for FD)
Uknown FD clamp adaptor
Uknown crank armor
Cateye Nima lights
Cateye Padrone
Jagwire Mickey adjuster
#5168
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#5169
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That's just a high ten frame? It looks pretty nice for hi-ten.
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Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),
#5170
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I already posted this as a separate thread, but reposting here to add to the fine collection in this thread. 1982 Trek 957 frame. Repainted. Campagnolo Athena 11-speed group. H Plus Son Archetype polished silver rims (debadged). Leather bar tape with cotton twine finishing and wine-cork plugs :-)
#5173
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So I'm going to do one of these conversions for the first time. A U. Dei frameset with a single up front and Campy 10 in the rear. Probably Veloce, unless I luck into a "better" silver RD.
Anyhow, the Dei has your typical stamped horizontal dropouts without an hanger. So I was planning on buying one of those Sunrace adapters. They say they are Shimano and SRAM compatible. As far as I know, all modern RD hangers have the same threading so it should be fine with Campagnolo. Correct? Also, any other recommendations over the Sunrace?
Anyhow, the Dei has your typical stamped horizontal dropouts without an hanger. So I was planning on buying one of those Sunrace adapters. They say they are Shimano and SRAM compatible. As far as I know, all modern RD hangers have the same threading so it should be fine with Campagnolo. Correct? Also, any other recommendations over the Sunrace?
#5174
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So I'm going to do one of these conversions for the first time. A U. Dei frameset with a single up front and Campy 10 in the rear. Probably Veloce, unless I luck into a "better" silver RD.
Anyhow, the Dei has your typical stamped horizontal dropouts without an hanger. So I was planning on buying one of those Sunrace adapters. They say they are Shimano and SRAM compatible. As far as I know, all modern RD hangers have the same threading so it should be fine with Campagnolo. Correct? Also, any other recommendations over the Sunrace?
Anyhow, the Dei has your typical stamped horizontal dropouts without an hanger. So I was planning on buying one of those Sunrace adapters. They say they are Shimano and SRAM compatible. As far as I know, all modern RD hangers have the same threading so it should be fine with Campagnolo. Correct? Also, any other recommendations over the Sunrace?
#5175
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Should be fine with The Claw.
So I'm going to do one of these conversions for the first time. A U. Dei frameset with a single up front and Campy 10 in the rear. Probably Veloce, unless I luck into a "better" silver RD.
Anyhow, the Dei has your typical stamped horizontal dropouts without an hanger. So I was planning on buying one of those Sunrace adapters. They say they are Shimano and SRAM compatible. As far as I know, all modern RD hangers have the same threading so it should be fine with Campagnolo. Correct? Also, any other recommendations over the Sunrace?
Anyhow, the Dei has your typical stamped horizontal dropouts without an hanger. So I was planning on buying one of those Sunrace adapters. They say they are Shimano and SRAM compatible. As far as I know, all modern RD hangers have the same threading so it should be fine with Campagnolo. Correct? Also, any other recommendations over the Sunrace?