Wow really innovative!

Really nice Peugeot! welcome to the Forum

Really nice! What size tires are those? I like Frankentreks!

Nice work, I really like it. An STI conversion of a Peugeot of this era is a C&V grail project for me.

650b x 38mm panaracer col de la vie tires

couple pages back has another shot of it and a link to pedalroom if youre interested in the other specifics, or the link in my sig

I have an '85 Italian classic steel Frugeri (small town shop 25 miles west of Milan). Sig. Ottaviano Frugeri is an old friend of Sig. Ernesto Colnago and my frame was built by one of their associates. It's a great bike, to me, but not a collectible. Italian crit racing tight geometry. When I haven't ridden it in a while, at first it feels squirrely, like, I imagine, driving a Ferrari.

In the 90's I upgraded the cheap, worn out Ofmega 6 speed components (it was all I could afford as a college student when I bought the bike new), with a Shimano 105 derailleur, SIS downtube shifters, and "aero" brake levers (cables under the bar tape).

I love the bike, it still fits me like a glove. But I've never liked the feel of the brake hoods - too short, too much pressure between my thumbs and fingers. Sram brifters feel much more comfortable to me. I received a pair of Sram brifters from a friend's wrecked bike and I'm considering putting them on my Frugeri, with the same Shimano 105 derailleur and 6 speed freewheel. Then limit the derailleur movement with the H and L screws to only 5 clicks up and 5 clicks down.

Before diving into disassembly and reassembly, please check my plan. According to this website,

Art's Cyclery Blog » Science Behind the Magic | Drivetrain Compatibility

the Shimano 6 shifters have a cable pull of 3.2 mm. The Sram (Exact Actuation) 10 Road/Mountain brifters have a cable pull of 3.1 mm. Which *might* be *close enough*.

Or if not, Sheldon Brown explains an alternative cable routing

Mixing Brands of Shifters, Rear Derailers and Cassettes

which has the effect of making the derailleur move *slightly* farther with each click. So I'm hoping 3.1 to 3.2 is slightly farther enough.

What do you think? Am I missing something? Does this sound like it will work? Has anyone done the same?

Pictures to follow.

I think "cool."

Go for it, and welcome to the forum.

I'd say give it a try. What's the worst that could happen? You're out $10 worth of cables?

+1 go for it.

i havent done the same thing, but i have simular. the trek above is 8 speed shimano with 10 speed campy shifters, works like it was made for each other. soon i will be changing out the 8 speed shimano to 10 speed sram mtb group with the same shifters and it should work equally well.

im all for experimentation and "breaking the rules"

check this out also, kinda puts what will work with what in simpler terms with colored charts

When doing your setup, do H & L limits first as usual -- then try adjusting your shifting starting at the center of the cluster (instead of the two highest gears as usual) -- this way the mismatch of 0.1mm doesn't end up cumulative as you move from one end of the cluster to the other, but only 2-3 steps in each direction. Not sure if I am explaining this well enough; coffee is not working yet.

Got ya. Good point, thanks.

Paint the flutes on the seatpost black or red.
Or ship the bike to me, and I'll do it.
Really. Trust me.

One-tenth of one millimeter is really not much... That combined with the HUGE fudge-factor that 6 speed spacing allows (vs. 10 or 11spd) leads me to think it will work just fine, just get your limit-screws correct.

That's really nice of you to offer to paint the flutes for me Rob.

Thanks for the kind words everyone. The bike lives in Sweden. This tread was a good guide when putting the bike together and I have had a brilliant time riding it since. Trying to clock as many miles as possible before the winter hits us here. Alll the best.:)

Any time. I see you're running those underrated tires. Good all-around tire for the price.
I still use the beaded ones when I find them on sale.

Well. I liked the conversion so much I decided to go all out. Moved the microshift drivetrain (great shiftin by the way!) to A Schwinn Traveler that I think i pretty much stole from craigslist ($80). Then got new wheels (November hubs with pacenti sl23 v2 rims), Athena 11 groupset, and compact handlebar (soma hwy1). damn happy.

They are clearly set up differently. the Traveler is my commuter. nice upright position, comfy with good sight lines. the Nishiki is nice and streched out which i love when im riding out by myself.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=483461
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=483462

By the way, LOVE this one!

I think this is a 1988 version of a Norco Monterey. About 63cm.
I bought as a frame from the local co-op. I had to cut the crown race down from 27mm to 26.4mm to fit a headset I had available to me at the time. Also had to stretch rear spacing to 130mm to fit a modern wheel. Yay steel!
Installed 11 speed Shimano 105 5800 series STI's, front and rear derailleurs, chain and cassette. The FSA Gossamer compact crankset and MegaExo bottom bracket were from the co-op (price tag needs to be peeled off still). Long reach Tektro R559 brakes. Ritchey Comp 46cm bars.
Mavic Aksium Race wheelset also from the co-op, with some used tires for now. Schwalbe Landcruiser on the rear and Continental Twister on the front. I'm going to swap the pedals soon to my Shimano XT Trekking SPD pedals.

The frame was so large I didn't have to trim any of the shifter housing. I mistakenly installed the front shifter cable in the rear STI and it was about 6 inches too short, but realized I had the two mixed up and rear cable fit just fine.

http://i.imgur.com/kgHDPWg.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/TFBCRpL.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/3rMUQno.jpg

[MENTION=395576]neologism[/MENTION] and [MENTION=377587]safepants[/MENTION] Great builds guys! I do have a question for you since I am finishing my upgrade to an 11 speed 5800 Shimano groupset. My 130 wheelset fits perfectly in the dropouts with a little manual spreading and slight dish adjustment. I did not think to check to see if the dropouts need realignment though. Did you have any issues with dropout alignment that you had to resolve? If so I should probably go back and check this out. Once again NICE!

Well, I cold set the Nishiki to 130, and due to a prior mishap involving a poorly set limit screws, a rear mech, and some spokes....my derailleur hanger was pretty out of alignment. So when I cold set the frame and aligned the hanger, I want ahead and realigned the drop outs. shifting is very crisp and honestly doesn't miss a shift. Now on the other hand on the Schwinn I just shoved the wheel in and didn't even check to make sure the hanger was aligned...shifts perfectly. To be fair the 11 speed campy is pretty touchy to set up so I knew I had to go the extra mile with it to get it to work.

In My opinion you wont go wrong doing it the right way the first time. you may get lucky and realigning everything would be overkill....but on the other hand why bother to find out?

Thanks :) It's a fun ride.
I used the Park Tool dropout alignment tool at the co-op too. I did have to realign mine, and also used the derailleur hanger alignment tool to fix that up too. My low limit needs an adjustment as I get slight skipping in the 32 cog so I might have to check the hanger alignment again.
Frame and Fork End Alignment Gauge Set - Park Tool

This thread is my first "go to" every time. Welcome new folks, and by the look of it, everyone's "first one" is well done.

Just a quick Q. I am surprised this has a Cromor tubing sticker. Is it just me, or wouldn't a San Cristobal with full chrome be built with SL? My "entry-level" unknown model Ciocc has SL, and San Cristobal is supposed to be their highest end frame.