Never did I say the DB was a bad bike. If it fits, ride it.

My point is that most bikes are worth more as parts than as a complete bike. That's a fact of life. It's also a fact that the DB name has been tarnished in the eyes of the general buying public and most people looking for a quality bike on CL will see DB and think Huffy.

Sorry but true.

It's a nice bike but it doesn't fit.

STRIP it and part it out makes the most economical sense. Too bad.

It's worth more not stripped. I still stand behind that. It's worth more than you think it is. Diamondback still has name recognition, and anyone who has a clue knows they're just a Centurion with an identity crisis.,,,,BD


Now if you want to talk about a line of road bikes with almost no value, as a whole or as parts, lets talk Mangusta's....hint, they kill snakes for sport and dinner....;)

I have never been one to strip and part out unless a frame is destroyed. Too much work boxing and shipping fom me. I would much rather sell complete bikes even if it means transferring over all the components and I may put these on a Klein Quantum that had a Dura Ace group. The Dura Ace group will get kicked up the line to an as yet not determined frame.

One more plus for the Diamondback... people who know bikes will recognize that they made some exceptional frames and pay accordingly.

General buying public in my area recognizes Trek, Cannondale, and Peugeot. Once you get past those, they really don't recognize much. They will recognize 105 as a desirable group as well (or have a bike friend that tells them 105 is good).

A lot of bikes at this level that I sell go to newb triathletes on a budget. The local tri shop in my town has race bikes starting at about $1200. That pushes buyers into the used market, looking for something in great shape cosmetically, light weight, and rides well. Their reference point on weight might be a heavy XMart MTB or similar. So a decent weight racing bike like your DB could look like an excellent buy.

Sorry, have to ask: have you ever owned a DB Master? If not, you really have no grounds for an opinion, do you? I have, I can vouch for them.

Took a chance on the classic horrible CL photo. Picked up two interesting bikes for a mere $40 total.

The first a 1985 GT Timberline. Definitely some rust on the chrome, but cleaned up it could make for a flashy townie ride.

Also a Raleigh Mountain Tour Tamarack. Randomly 650b, super long wheelbase and slack angles. Original plan was to fix it up a touch and sell it but now I sort of want to steal the wheels for a future 700c-650b conversion project. Not sure how much I'd ride this - would be a fun cruiser, but I already have serious space problems...

Phenomenal score on the GT, those bikes have great appeal to both vintage MTB and BMX aficionados.

And that HAS to be the oldest GT I've ever seen, that wasn't a BMX? Never seen that frame, or the graphics either. COOL!! I want it!!,,,,BD


edit;I might even be persuaded to trade my 84 Trek 830 for it?? Reaches arm out for you to twist, hehe.

I had no problem selling a diamondback master tg road bike for over $400, so i'm going to have to disagree with you there

I think it cool that the seat stays attach at the top tube, instead of the top tube/ seat tube juncture. Geometry looks tight, too.

I just know I'm going to face the same problem I had when I found a minty Fuji Saratoga touring bike - I went out looking to replace my ill-fitting townie/bad weather bike and after I build it up I'm going to think "well this is too pretty to ride in the rain, you should find another bike for that..." Damn you, n+1!

Also - it has a fair amount of rust spotting on the chrome. I wouldn't be terribly excited to strip it all down to give it an OA bath - what's my best bet for topical application?

As long as it's not clearcoated. A little #0000 steel wool, and some windex or other type cleaner to lube the wool. Should look brand new in no time. #0000 is very fine, and will not scratch at all. Don't buy the cheap stuff if you can help it though, cause it breaks down into little pieces and makes a huge mess.,,,,BD

I'm in the committed OA camp. Treating a fork is no big deal. Realize chrome layer on bikes is very thin, its not a bumper on a 57 Chevy. Abrasives can't tell the difference between rust, chrome, or good paint. They all get removed. And unless you use a microscope, you will likely be leaving behind some small seeds of rust, and the rust will come roaring back.

I let chemistry work for me, it removes the rust I can see and the rust I cannot see, but leaves behind the chrome, decals, and paint. Pretty amazing stuff!

Now treating an entire frame is more work. I usually do that campaign style, do five to ten frames back to back, reusing the same O A solution.

^A million times THIS^

The only thing steel wool is good for is stripping frames. If one must use wool it should only be brass wool. Steel leaves behind micro bits that will rust and discolor, it scratches something fierce, and removes too much good material.

OA gets the rust out and converts anything that won't come out to more stable iron oxides so it will not continue to rust on its own. Polish with chrome polish and then treat with wax to fill in the pits so that no further rust will form.

Why use your elbow more than you have to? Scratched chrome is forever. Like Thrifty Bill said, there is only a very thin layer of it on most bikes. Let chemistry do the work for you.

I'd love to let the OA magic work for me, but completely stripping the frame would take quite a bit of work too. If it was just the fork it would be easy...

Some searching has me thinking I'll try the aluminum foil method. Don't worry, I'll be gentle, and will start underneath the bottom bracket or somewhere else out of sight to test. Don't hate me if this ends up on the "vintage mountain bikes with drop bars" thread - I promise I'll keep all the original parts!

I live in a part of Cambridge between Harvard and MIT. While walking my dog the other day, we passed a vacant lot that is sort of a repository of university junk metal (old or busted file cabinets/shelves/desks/chairs, clipped U-locks + department store bikes, shopping carts, etc.)
This was just sitting there
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5...119_155356.jpg

I don't know, maybe it is just me, but detail stripping a bike down to the frame is a 30-minute job. Building it back up carefully is a little more labor-intensive of course.

If the rust on the chrome merits it I figure just strip it -otherwise just leave it...

:D 144BCD in box
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...psfb70224d.jpg

Is it yours now? Those solar panels at least would be worth something, I'd think.

the car would be super cool to use to go to work with!
the solar panels are worth money but flexable solar panels half life is quite short- like 10 years
it depends on a lot but that would be a cool score

I'd suggest a metal polish that contains OA. I use Noxon 7 from the local auto parts store (I've also seen it at Ace Hardware and others,) fantastic stuff for chrome and other metals.

Barkeeper's friend works well for spot jobs. It's got OA in it too.

+1 I strip down every bike I touch when I first obtain it. +1 30 minute job, with a lot of benefits. It gives me a chance to closely inspect the inside of the frame, bottom bracket and headset. I am replacing cables and housings, so they get cut off. Most of the time, the chain goes too (keep the bolt cutters handy to reduce wear and tear on my chain tool). Its also the best way to really, completely, clean the frame, do any touch up painting, or whatever. I've found some surprising issues, like the bike I had with zero external rust, but significant internal rust.

The rebuild obviously takes more time, but most of it I do anyway. Its easier to clean derailleurs, brake calipers, etc., when everything is off the bike.

just asking, how may bikes you flip a year?

my best was 30 a year-made 7k that summer.
hope i never do that again-too much work for too little money.