For the love of English 3 speeds...
#5876
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The owner has agreed to sell the bike at the price that I offered, so now it is a matter of arranging to pick it up. I'm committed to a family gathering today and the bike is an hour away, so it will probably be Monday or Tuesday before I can get it.
#5877
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It was just a matter of time, @Velocivixen, before you discovered that you're dealing with neither metric nor English. It's frustrating. One of the sizes will fit 8mm, the fender bolts. Or maybe it's 9mm. The stem expander bolt, though, is between 11mm and 12mm, and nothing will fit. And Whitworth wrenches are expensive. I don't own any.
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And I do have this tool! I am very fortunate. When I got the Raleighs back in November, the PO had kept the the original ownership sleeve with the owner's/ maintenance manual, assembly sheet, this tool and another tool. I can't figure out what the other tool is for, however. It's thin and is a sort of elongated shape the resembles a french curve (to me). What is it used for, folks? How many tools did you get with a Raleigh anyway?
#5879
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Truly amazing how well they clean up....
#5881
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Joel, there's a link to one on eBay in my original post. I've seen them called all sorts of things: Raleigh wrenches? Last one I found was at a used tool shop in Ellsworth, ME. Cost 25 cents!
#5882
Senior Member
So I've just read up on Whitworth. Interesting.
Problem- Front rim has what I think is a "blip" directly across from the valve hole, where both sides of the rim flare out laterally. I think it may be where the rim was welded together. Any quick fix I can do without specialty tools?
As as an aside I called my favorite local wheel builder & rebuild of rear wheel using CR18 with 40 spokes would run $112. Not saying I'm gonna run out and have wheels built, but I will take a 3 day wheel building class eventually so the rear wheel would be a good one to do for the class.
Problem- Front rim has what I think is a "blip" directly across from the valve hole, where both sides of the rim flare out laterally. I think it may be where the rim was welded together. Any quick fix I can do without specialty tools?
As as an aside I called my favorite local wheel builder & rebuild of rear wheel using CR18 with 40 spokes would run $112. Not saying I'm gonna run out and have wheels built, but I will take a 3 day wheel building class eventually so the rear wheel would be a good one to do for the class.
#5883
Count Orlok Member
It was just a matter of time, @Velocivixen, before you discovered that you're dealing with neither metric nor English. It's frustrating. One of the sizes will fit 8mm, the fender bolts. Or maybe it's 9mm. The stem expander bolt, though, is between 11mm and 12mm, and nothing will fit. And Whitworth wrenches are expensive. I don't own any.
or Rolson Whitworth Combination Wrench Set BSW British Standard UK Triumph BSA Tool | eBay
I can't remember off the top of my head what sizes I use.
#5884
Senior Member
So I've just read up on Whitworth. Interesting.
Problem- Front rim has what I think is a "blip" directly across from the valve hole, where both sides of the rim flare out laterally. I think it may be where the rim was welded together. Any quick fix I can do without specialty tools?
As as an aside I called my favorite local wheel builder & rebuild of rear wheel using CR18 with 40 spokes would run $112. Not saying I'm gonna run out and have wheels built, but I will take a 3 day wheel building class eventually so the rear wheel would be a good one to do for the class.
Problem- Front rim has what I think is a "blip" directly across from the valve hole, where both sides of the rim flare out laterally. I think it may be where the rim was welded together. Any quick fix I can do without specialty tools?
As as an aside I called my favorite local wheel builder & rebuild of rear wheel using CR18 with 40 spokes would run $112. Not saying I'm gonna run out and have wheels built, but I will take a 3 day wheel building class eventually so the rear wheel would be a good one to do for the class.
Took a class in beginning wood turning today. I was struggling with the high speed steel knives and the instructor handed me a carbide scraping tool. It was like magic. Instructor told me he didn't like the carbide tipped tools because they made even incompetent dilettantes look good. At least he didn't suggest that I find another hobby.
Cr18 with 40 Wheelsmith SS 14 or 15 gauge spokes and nipples probably costs about $50 from Niagara to your door. If I were in the wheel building business and was good at it and had people requesting my services, I don't think I would do it for less than you were quoted. Unless I could get the rim at wholesale and had a spoke cutting machine and make a good profit on the components. If it's a wheel he doesn't build often, he has to spend a good bit of time just measuring and running a spoke calculator. Oh, that's the dynohub isn't it? Probably need two different spoke lengths so buying 50 packs of Wheelsmith spokes probably wouldn't work out.
I doubt if his quote included DB spokes though if it did, it might be a bargain. Personally, I'd go for straight spokes, probably 14 gauge. But, almost everyone here disagrees with me on that.
Personally, I find wheel building (rather than truing steel wheels) satisfying and relaxing. Cheaper than drugs and chances are I won't get arrested.
#5885
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Thread Starter
It was just a matter of time, @Velocivixen, before you discovered that you're dealing with neither metric nor English. It's frustrating. One of the sizes will fit 8mm, the fender bolts. Or maybe it's 9mm. The stem expander bolt, though, is between 11mm and 12mm, and nothing will fit. And Whitworth wrenches are expensive. I don't own any.
#5886
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
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#5887
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They're not that bad. Buy a set from India on eBay: Everest Whitworth BSW British 7 PC Open End Wrench British Standard English Tool | eBay
or Rolson Whitworth Combination Wrench Set BSW British Standard UK Triumph BSA Tool | eBay
I can't remember off the top of my head what sizes I use.
or Rolson Whitworth Combination Wrench Set BSW British Standard UK Triumph BSA Tool | eBay
I can't remember off the top of my head what sizes I use.
@Velocivixen, I would use a file or a hammer or some other crude tool. I've done this dozens of times. Steel rims can take it. It's really not a big deal.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#5888
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Those "King Dick" wrenches are rather interesting.
King Dick UK Whitworth Box End Ring Wrench Set 4 PC British BSW 1 8"w to 9 16"W | eBay
I use a French tool though, called an "English Wrench" I have then in 6", 8", 10" and 12" sizes...
King Dick UK Whitworth Box End Ring Wrench Set 4 PC British BSW 1 8"w to 9 16"W | eBay
I use a French tool though, called an "English Wrench" I have then in 6", 8", 10" and 12" sizes...
Last edited by Number_6; 01-11-15 at 09:15 PM.
#5889
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Snap-on makes some double ended offset box wrenches that are pretty useful on Raleighs. Don't ask about the price though.
#5890
Count Orlok Member
British Fasteners for a little history. Interesting about the Packard-built Merlin ( which powered the P-51 Mustang).
My dad remembers when both Sears Craftsman and Snap-On both made Whitworth tools sets. He goes to a lot of estate sales and always looks for Whitworth tools for me, but no luck so far. I broke down and bought a cheap set, but, hey, they do work.
My dad remembers when both Sears Craftsman and Snap-On both made Whitworth tools sets. He goes to a lot of estate sales and always looks for Whitworth tools for me, but no luck so far. I broke down and bought a cheap set, but, hey, they do work.
#5892
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British Fasteners for a little history. Interesting about the Packard-built Merlin ( which powered the P-51 Mustang).
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#5893
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I don't know if it ever did. They moved the pulley to the bottom of the seat tube in the late 70's. I can't recall ever seeing a full sized Raleigh 3 speed with a full length cable. It would cause issues with the shifting. The Twentys and RSW's used full length cable with a clamp on stop on the rear stay.
Aaron
Aaron
#5894
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My Glider doesn't have a pulley, either.
#5895
Senior Member
Has anyone upgraded the brake levers and calipers with something that looks the vintage part and has stock fender clearance? The levers rattle sometimes with the play of the lever between the rivets and the brake calipers themselves aren't the best.
I find the stock brakes are pretty terrible with poor lever feel, even with CR18 aluminum rims and kool stop salmon brake pads.
I find the stock brakes are pretty terrible with poor lever feel, even with CR18 aluminum rims and kool stop salmon brake pads.
#5896
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I hear this complaint a lot, and I don't understand it. My 3-speeds' brakes are as good as on my other bikes. Maybe my hands are stronger than other people's hands?
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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#5897
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Maybe you have alloy rims, Tom (though it appears @Narhay does as well?) My Schwinn Speedster exhibits (shall we say) "interesting" braking performance when wet. I recently swapped out the Schwinn Approved calipers with a pair of Polygons (same thing, I think, just newer and not bent), but the performance is still rather hair raising, even with Kool-Stop pads. I keep meaning to build up a set of CR-18 ISO590 rims to replace the rusty, bumpy, chrome steel "gems" currently on the bike, but other stuff is always closer to the front of the priority/interest queue. Besides, there's nothing like the wet weather braking performance of steel rims as you approach a four-way stop to get your blood pumping in the morning.
#5898
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No, I have steel rims, and the brakes become non-brakes when the rims get wet. But in the dry, they work like champs. I do have long hands and a strong grip, though.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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Has anyone upgraded the brake levers and calipers with something that looks the vintage part and has stock fender clearance? The levers rattle sometimes with the play of the lever between the rivets and the brake calipers themselves aren't the best.
I find the stock brakes are pretty terrible with poor lever feel, even with CR18 aluminum rims and kool stop salmon brake pads.
I find the stock brakes are pretty terrible with poor lever feel, even with CR18 aluminum rims and kool stop salmon brake pads.
I first noticed this when working with Campy Deltas and it seems its the same way with the steel calipers on British 3-speeds. So if you have been trying to keep the brake pads really close to the rims, back them off a fair amount and see if you don't stop better.