hdkct

Apologies to all if this subject has been covered. I would really love to take on a rebuild project with a Raleigh 3-speed, preferably a Sport or Superbe, but my limited experience in fitting one of these bikes shows that the 23 inch frame is just too small for me. I am 6' 1" and my knees practically hit the handlebars. I am sure this is a common problem. Does anybody have any advice? I am aware that there is also a 24" frame available on the Tourist model, but I hardly ever see those up for sale.

dweenk

Salubrious

The ball end can be removed by heating it up with a propane torch. It can then be transferred to a new bit of cable, if the old cable is no longer serviceable. The soldering is the tricky bit- a tin lead antimony solder or similar is my recommendation. The antimony helps the solder work with other materials (like the cable itself) and makes the solderjoint stronger.

In this way I made new cables for my 1935 Roadster, whose cables were beyond redemption.

Classtime 

BigChief

I'm 6'1" and , going straight, my knees miss the handlebar by a good 3 inches. It's only when I make a sharp U turn that I instinctively move my inside knee out to clear the bar. You could change the stem for a taller or longer necked version. Any 22.2mm stem will fit the fork tube, but Raleighs use 15/16" handlebars, so you would need to shim them to fit the 1" stem clamp you're likely to find on the replacement. I've done this before, not a problem. Depending on how far you move the handlebar, you may have to make up custom length cables. I did that with this bike. It's a 21" frame that I modified with a long Sunlite touring stem to fit me.

ascherer 

I haven't seen one of those VBT water bottles in a long time!

browngw 

Check to see how the saddle clamp is oriented. I'm close to 6ft and find that a 23" sports frame is nearly perfect if the clamp bolt is behind the seat post instead of in front of it. Many sports I have found were clamp in front like my recent '72 shown. Even on my 24" DL1, the clamp is behind. It is okay either way but can give you more room.

gster

I'm 6' (that's what my licence says) and I can ride any of the frame sizes (21'-23") with proper seat/handle bar height adjustments.
The 23" frame is my preferred choice and find them a comfortable ride.
As a result, I'm letting go of a couple of my 21" bikes.
A Superbe and a Hercules.
Time to cull the herd.

hdkct

Thanks for the suggestions. I will give them a try.

Buellster

I found this beauty on my Local FB marketplace. I know it's just a sport but the condition is something to behold. Guy wants $125 for it. I rode it around a parking lot for a bit and it feels wonderful. Seat is lose and he said it will need a new one (old rail seat system but I believe I have a replacement that will work). It has some little rust spots here and there but nothing major. He also said the the cotter pin on the left crank is about shot and that it will need a new one next time the BB gets work. Most importantly it's my size at 23". I'm certainly considering it. This condition for a 60s sport seems worth the higher price than what a sport usually calls for...




How bad is a dent on a hub like this?


Some rust here and there but nothing major

gster

$125.00 seems a very reasonable price.

BigChief

I agree. This is a good bike, priced right. If you keep it in a reasonably dry place and give it a coat of wax once in a while, you can stop any further rusting in it's tracks. Rims look very good. Originally this bike came with a Brooks B72 and Dare grips. Other than those it looks original. I like it.

mrv 

@Buellster - I'm thinking about one of these in my area - probably the one with the new Brooks grips & new GYES saddle (seat -whatever). It's more pricey. No fenders though. Not sure.

Buellster

Oh man that's a tough one!
The one tour thinking has some shcwabe titles too!
I do just LOVE the fenders though. My heart would be with the one with the fenders still on it. Then again I'm a sucker for looks as opposed to the one your on which may well be a better bet quality wise haha

dweenk

My vote is for the bike with fenders. You would have a complete (or nearly complete) bike to begin whatever project suits your taste.

BigChief

To me, a complete bike is always worth more than an incomplete one in similar condition.

Buellster

What are the chances the cotter pin and seat post from my 78 Raleigh sport will work with my 60's raliegh sport?
I'm considering using the first for parts on the second. It doesnt need many, but it sure would be convenient if I could use the bike I have for parts.

desconhecido 

For the love of English 3 speeds...

My guess is the chances are very good. To the best of my knowledge, Raleigh Sports bikes take 25.4 mm seatposts and all the bottom brackets and bb spindles are interchangeable. The later bikes have two stays on the rear fenders, no white tail, but that's easy to remedy. If you have parts from a 78 to update your 60s bike, take a look at the brakes and levers. Though it would be anachronistic to put the later brakes on the earlier bike, they are better brakes and levers. So, what do you do, enhance the bike as a bike or adhear to period correctness?

edit:

That green bike is pretty decent and not an outrageous price, in my opinion, regardless the butt ugly saddle. That, of course, brings up the problem with Raleigh Sports. It'll take $75 to $100 to get a decent saddle on that sucker. Cheap bikes have a a tendency to not stay cheap for long.

Buellster

Good to know!
haha I'm not super concerned with the saddle. I've got a decent one to put on it untill I can find a decent replacement.

gster

On the Path Racer, the cost of the seat, grips and tires exceeds the asking price.
I would assume that the cables and pads are new as well.
I bet the seller's got at least $400,00 tied up in it. Bike/Parts/Labour.
The Gyes saddles are well made ( I have one) but take some time to break in.
It's like vintage cars ,it's always better to buy one that somebody else has spent their money on.

BigChief

The problem with modified bikes is that one person's scorcher is another person's train wreck. When I built my semi-scorcher, I started from a dumpy overpainted frame with a replaced fork, missing mudguards and Schwinn front wheel. I stripped and painted the frame, used lots of vintage parts from my inventory, rebuilt everything, bought expensive brakes, a new front wheel, the CR 18 is still waiting to get installed on the rear, tires and tubes, cables, bearings, a seat and as nice a ride as it is, Id be lucky to get 75 bucks if I tried to sell it. In terms of dollar value, the more complete and original it is, the better.

Kilroy1988 

I'd buy them both, swap the nicer bits from either bike onto the frame of your choice, then sell all of the leftover stuff as a complete bike and get half the money back.

Buellster

What does 51\" axle refrence? That measurment seems much to large for a drop out spacing. I am clearly uninformed in this matter, and thus confused haha

BigChief

Looks like 5 3/4". Funny, I thought I saw 5 1/2 and 6 1/4 lengths on the exploded view FW diagram. Maybe I read it wrong. I'm used to seeing 5 1/2" on AW hubs.

Buellster

oh!
that makes significantly more sense than 51 haha