For the love of English 3 speeds...
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So it seems I've lucked out by having the none drive side nut included.
I haven't had any luck finding the non window options as you said they seem to be quite scarce.
Is this a standard aw window style you are referring too?
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/sturmey-archer-rh-axle-nut-cp-hmn129/?geoc=US
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Woah okay I gotcha.
So it seems I've lucked out by having the none drive side nut included.
I haven't had any luck finding the non window options as you said they seem to be quite scarce.
Is this a standard aw window style you are referring too?
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spar...mn129/?geoc=US
So it seems I've lucked out by having the none drive side nut included.
I haven't had any luck finding the non window options as you said they seem to be quite scarce.
Is this a standard aw window style you are referring too?
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spar...mn129/?geoc=US
Seriously, they discard these wheels/hubs out back of bike shops all the time.
Complete bikes are often at the side of the road.
Most bike shops have new 3 speed cables @ $8.00-$14.00.
If you ask there's usually a bin of assorted 3 speed parts in
the back somewhere.
You'll pay more for a couple of lock washers + shipping
than for a parts bike.
They're out there.
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@gster speaks the truth: all of the 3-speeds I have now were acquired as whole, useable bikes for under $100 CAD each. My current favourite daily ride (Miele ATB) was found thrown out *on my own street*. You have to be alert but they are out there.
however, did want to say I have had good service from SJS among others. LBS has bins of old stuff that I am permitted to rummage through and I find all sorts of helpful stuff for fairly little money (bought a practically unused AW complete for $30CAD. It pays to make the acquaintance of a local shop or coop and spend some time and especially money there...
however, did want to say I have had good service from SJS among others. LBS has bins of old stuff that I am permitted to rummage through and I find all sorts of helpful stuff for fairly little money (bought a practically unused AW complete for $30CAD. It pays to make the acquaintance of a local shop or coop and spend some time and especially money there...
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From the sounds of it I think you're better off buying a donor bike for the bits and pieces,
Seriously, they discard these wheels/hubs out back of bike shops all the time.
Complete bikes are often at the side of the road.
Most bike shops have new 3 speed cables @ $8.00-$14.00.
If you ask there's usually a bin of assorted 3 speed parts in
the back somewhere.
You'll pay more for a couple of lock washers + shipping
than for a parts bike.
They're out there.
Seriously, they discard these wheels/hubs out back of bike shops all the time.
Complete bikes are often at the side of the road.
Most bike shops have new 3 speed cables @ $8.00-$14.00.
If you ask there's usually a bin of assorted 3 speed parts in
the back somewhere.
You'll pay more for a couple of lock washers + shipping
than for a parts bike.
They're out there.
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I haven't had any luck finding the non window options as you said they seem to be quite scarce.
Is this a standard aw window style you are referring too?
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spar...mn129/?geoc=US
Is this a standard aw window style you are referring too?
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spar...mn129/?geoc=US
Yes, that should work just fine.
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+1 For parts bike.
I let go of thay rusty 21" 3 speed sports and I'm regretting it now. I got offered twice what I paid and my bike fund was looking paltry. Now it looks like it would cost me the amount I got out of that bike to get the spare parts I could've taken from it haha
I do see a lot of step throughs on the cheap...
does it matter if it's a schwin?
the market here is flooded with schwin step throughs.
My understanding is that as long as the hub is SA the parts will be usable, but I want to check.
I let go of thay rusty 21" 3 speed sports and I'm regretting it now. I got offered twice what I paid and my bike fund was looking paltry. Now it looks like it would cost me the amount I got out of that bike to get the spare parts I could've taken from it haha
I do see a lot of step throughs on the cheap...
does it matter if it's a schwin?
the market here is flooded with schwin step throughs.
My understanding is that as long as the hub is SA the parts will be usable, but I want to check.
Last edited by Buellster; 08-17-18 at 08:54 PM.
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+1 For parts bike.
I let go of thay rusty 21" 3 speed sports and I'm regretting it now. I got offered twice what I paid and my bike fund was looking paltry. Now it looks like it would cost me the amount I got out of that bike to get the spare parts I could've taken from it haha
I do see a lot of step throughs on the cheap...
does it matter if it's a schwin?
the market here is flooded with schwin step throughs.
My understanding is that as long as the hub is SA the parts will be usable, but I want to check.
I let go of thay rusty 21" 3 speed sports and I'm regretting it now. I got offered twice what I paid and my bike fund was looking paltry. Now it looks like it would cost me the amount I got out of that bike to get the spare parts I could've taken from it haha
I do see a lot of step throughs on the cheap...
does it matter if it's a schwin?
the market here is flooded with schwin step throughs.
My understanding is that as long as the hub is SA the parts will be usable, but I want to check.
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I'm not a particular fan of schwinns. I know they have some supporters but I just dont find them interesting.
I'm just wondering if schwinn actually used sturmey parts. Shifter cables, pulleys, spacers etc.
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SA hubs, especially the older ones have top quality plating. Plus, they were sometimes protected by a coat of greasy crud, so it is common to find a totally rusted away bike while the hub cleans up to be in very good condition. That's why you see so many hubs for sale on eBay. Over the years people and mechanics would toss a rotted away wheel but save the perfectly good hub. 20 years ago it was pretty easy to find free English junkers from the 50s and 60s, but they are becoming more rare all the time. These days, roadside junk day finds are mostly Asian bikes from the 90s.
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SA hubs, especially the older ones have top quality plating. Plus, they were sometimes protected by a coat of greasy crud, so it is common to find a totally rusted away bike while the hub cleans up to be in very good condition. That's why you see so many hubs for sale on eBay. Over the years people and mechanics would toss a rotted away wheel but save the perfectly good hub. 20 years ago it was pretty easy to find free English junkers from the 50s and 60s, but they are becoming more rare all the time. These days, roadside junk day finds are mostly Asian bikes from the 90s.
Front and rear brake calipers
Trigger in good shape
Handle bars and stem
Seat post
assorted cable clips
Clean rear hub (cut from rusted rim)
Pair of brake levers
Pair of grips
Most of these parts have migrated over to other projects
or into the parts bin.
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wow, your parts are so well organized. At least I recently migrated mine from falling apart cardboard boxes into plastic bins. Good deal at 20 bucks. I see you got a good pair of single bolt levers out of it. Nice. These always come in handy for fixing an otherwise nice mid 70s Raleighs with auto those adjust disasters.
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A Dunelt, Royal Scot and Robin Hood walk into a bar...
On Grove Street in the West Village, NYC. As @noglider points out, these classics are not unusual in NYC and in particular in this neighborhood.
On Grove Street in the West Village, NYC. As @noglider points out, these classics are not unusual in NYC and in particular in this neighborhood.
They've been terrorizing New York with their incessant demands for
moustache wax and glutten free sustainable snacks
for months now.
Good work.
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Raleigh Price Structure
I've often wondered how Raleigh priced their various lines of bikes and what were the differences
in the quality of components that would make a Robin Hood, for example, less expensive than a
a Raleigh branded bike.
I found a "spotty" weld on my Robin Hood.
Perhaps, as parts came off the line, seconds (imperfect) were set aside to be used on the lesser brands.
Robin Hoods, Philips, Triumphs, Gliders etc.
Just a thought.
I've often wondered how Raleigh priced their various lines of bikes and what were the differences
in the quality of components that would make a Robin Hood, for example, less expensive than a
a Raleigh branded bike.
I found a "spotty" weld on my Robin Hood.
Perhaps, as parts came off the line, seconds (imperfect) were set aside to be used on the lesser brands.
Robin Hoods, Philips, Triumphs, Gliders etc.
Just a thought.
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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Find an old Speedster and take what you need from it, but a Schwinn rim is not the same size as a Raleigh rim so your wheels won't match. Other Schwinns also used Sturmey parts but those models might be more costly to purchase as a parts bike. You can sometimes find Speedsters cheap. My local co-op has a couple that would probably go for $30 each.
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Scorchers Be Gone!
A few bikes that were set up as true Scorchers have reverted to a Semi Scorcher state.
Although I really like the look, my back and neck didn't agree.
They'll actually get ridden now.
1961 Superbe.
Before.
After.
Heron eye stamp indicates pre 1961.
A few bikes that were set up as true Scorchers have reverted to a Semi Scorcher state.
Although I really like the look, my back and neck didn't agree.
They'll actually get ridden now.
1961 Superbe.
Before.
After.
Heron eye stamp indicates pre 1961.
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wow, your parts are so well organized. At least I recently migrated mine from falling apart cardboard boxes into plastic bins. Good deal at 20 bucks. I see you got a good pair of single bolt levers out of it. Nice. These always come in handy for fixing an otherwise nice mid 70s Raleighs with auto those adjust disasters.
Many of the SA equipped CCM 3 speeds and Gliders came with the double bolt levers that we both dislike.
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wow, your parts are so well organized. At least I recently migrated mine from falling apart cardboard boxes into plastic bins. Good deal at 20 bucks. I see you got a good pair of single bolt levers out of it. Nice. These always come in handy for fixing an otherwise nice mid 70s Raleighs with auto those adjust disasters.
It rides beautifully. Of all my vintage bikes it has actually needed the least work despite being the oldest.
What's the auto adjusting disaster you speak of?
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Raleigh had been using the same brake lever design since the 1930s. I think they are elegant and one of the fitments I appreciate on old Raleighs. But by 1972, the Raleigh bad ideas department got very busy solving problems the bikes didn't have while ignoring other issues that should have been addressed. This bike doesn't have a date stamp, but I figure it from 1973 or so. At that point the classic brake lever design was replaced by a cheap looking pressed sheet steel lever with a clunky widget hung on the end with a wire bale that contained a ratchet that would automatically readjust your brake lever too far out as the pads wore. By now you're guessing that I'm not fond of them. I bought this 73 Sports on the cheap because the hub didn't work. I repaired everything and replaced the goofy levers with a pair of earlier ones I had. Except for the seat, it's a pretty nice ride now.
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Raleigh Price Structure
I've often wondered how Raleigh priced their various lines of bikes and what were the differences
in the quality of components that would make a Robin Hood, for example, less expensive than a
a Raleigh branded bike.
I found a "spotty" weld on my Robin Hood.
Perhaps, as parts came off the line, seconds (imperfect) were set aside to be used on the lesser brands.
Robin Hoods, Philips, Triumphs, Gliders etc.
Just a thought.
I've often wondered how Raleigh priced their various lines of bikes and what were the differences
in the quality of components that would make a Robin Hood, for example, less expensive than a
a Raleigh branded bike.
I found a "spotty" weld on my Robin Hood.
Perhaps, as parts came off the line, seconds (imperfect) were set aside to be used on the lesser brands.
Robin Hoods, Philips, Triumphs, Gliders etc.
Just a thought.
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We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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I have a 23" ladies' Sports in addition to my 23" men's and expect to be riding it when I can no longer swing a leg over the men's frame, and I hope to be lighter than 180 when I do that but am not holding out hope and I have no worries at all about the frame's ability to carry my weight, no matter what it might reasonably become. I have never seen a frame failure on a Sports, so don't know what else to tell you about that. The more widely exposed and traveled among us might be able to tell you differently. For the riding conditions you describe I'd realistically be more concerned about the wheels. If you're worried about the frame pick up a spare; that'll guarantee that you never need it.
Last edited by thumpism; 08-18-18 at 07:03 PM.
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Some days, it's not even worth gnawing through the restraints.
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That is a super deal! All there except the Brooks saddle. Great looking chrome. I don't mind the dulling of the paint, but depending how deep the oxidation goes, it might gloss up to some degree with a polishing compound. I've had some bikes like this that shined up almost new looking and others that didn't respond much at all. You never know until you try, but even a wax will bring back some luster. Great find!!
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That is a super deal! All there except the Brooks saddle. Great looking chrome. I don't mind the dulling of the paint, but depending how deep the oxidation goes, it might gloss up to some degree with a polishing compound. I've had some bikes like this that shined up almost new looking and others that didn't respond much at all. You never know until you try, but even a wax will bring back some luster. Great find!!
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Some days, it's not even worth gnawing through the restraints.
Some days, it's not even worth gnawing through the restraints.
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