For the love of English 3 speeds...
I see some wear on the dark spindle, the other one looks good as do the cups. The first thing that comes to my mind is that you're loosing the adjustment you made with the adjustable cup when you tighten the lock ring. That's easy to do especially if you're using a punch and hammer to tighten the lock ring. The cup will want to turn and over tighten your adjustment. Getting an adjustment is a whole lot easier if you have the correct spanner for the lock ring because you only need one hand which leaves the other free to hold the cup in place. That would be Park Tool # HCW-5. There's also a Park Tool to hold the cup HCW-11 but channel lock pliers work fine too.
Senior Member
Yeah, the differences between too tight, just right, and too loose on the BB assemblies are really close together. Having the right tools and a lot of patience are essential.
Senior Member
I see some wear on the dark spindle, the other one looks good as do the cups. The first thing that comes to my mind is that you're loosing the adjustment you made with the adjustable cup when you tighten the lock ring. That's easy to do especially if you're using a punch and hammer to tighten the lock ring. The cup will want to turn and over tighten your adjustment. Getting an adjustment is a whole lot easier if you have the correct spanner for the lock ring because you only need one hand which leaves the other free to hold the cup in place. That would be Park Tool # HCW-5. There's also a Park Tool to hold the cup HCW-11 but channel lock pliers work fine too.
Sorry, I should have taken a photo of the whole spindle, this is the original pulled from the Superbe. As for the tools I am using exactly those tools I am using the Park Tool HCW-5 and HCW-11. I also am using the Bikesmith Fixed Cup Tool to pull the fixed cup and making sure it is nice and tight.
Here is what I have tried with the bottom bracket.
1. Tried using original spindle and original cups. Discovered the binding in certain areas. It would spin normal and then bind every now and then.
2. Tried using original cups and different spindle. Same symptoms, spin normal and then bind every now and then.
3. New cups (fixed and adjustable) and new spindle Same symptoms, spin normal and then bind on certain rotations.
I am adjusting to where there is little to no play in the spindle.
Here are the photos.
![](https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/800x600/45109283035_51a7ddab95_c_e36f6ba360390d8e0813ec607f0099d8dbf4cbd8.jpg)
![](https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/800x600/31082061677_1ff52f79de_c_8e118b8dd37f53a2f7262d72fbeb5dcb45496761.jpg)
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572
Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
Liked 445 Times
in
288 Posts
Sorry, I should have taken a photo of the whole spindle, this is the original pulled from the Superbe. As for the tools I am using exactly those tools I am using the Park Tool HCW-5 and HCW-11. I also am using the Bikesmith Fixed Cup Tool to pull the fixed cup and making sure it is nice and tight.
Here is what I have tried with the bottom bracket.
1. Tried using original spindle and original cups. Discovered the binding in certain areas. It would spin normal and then bind every now and then.
2. Tried using original cups and different spindle. Same symptoms, spin normal and then bind every now and then.
3. New cups (fixed and adjustable) and new spindle Same symptoms, spin normal and then bind on certain rotations.
I am adjusting to where there is little to no play in the spindle.
Here are the photos.
![](https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/800x600/45109283035_51a7ddab95_c_e36f6ba360390d8e0813ec607f0099d8dbf4cbd8.jpg)
![](https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/800x600/31082061677_1ff52f79de_c_8e118b8dd37f53a2f7262d72fbeb5dcb45496761.jpg)
Here is what I have tried with the bottom bracket.
1. Tried using original spindle and original cups. Discovered the binding in certain areas. It would spin normal and then bind every now and then.
2. Tried using original cups and different spindle. Same symptoms, spin normal and then bind every now and then.
3. New cups (fixed and adjustable) and new spindle Same symptoms, spin normal and then bind on certain rotations.
I am adjusting to where there is little to no play in the spindle.
Here are the photos.
![](https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/800x600/45109283035_51a7ddab95_c_e36f6ba360390d8e0813ec607f0099d8dbf4cbd8.jpg)
![](https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/800x600/31082061677_1ff52f79de_c_8e118b8dd37f53a2f7262d72fbeb5dcb45496761.jpg)
It's all about the adjusting...
I find installing the cranks and pedals gives a better
feel while adjusting the cup.
Senior Member
Oh good. Didn't know you had all the good tools. I don't usually remove the fixed cup for a BB servicing, but it's really nice to have Mark's tool handy if you want to. It usually takes me a few times of loosening and re tightening before I'm happy with the adjustment. Such a tiny turn of the cup makes the difference between perfect and too tight. I go by that binding feeling. I keep backing off the cup until just after it spins freely. Sometimes, I think I have it perfect and I give the lock ring a last tightening only to feel it binding and I have to start all over again. It's fussy.
Senior Member
One more thought: Did you replace the bearings? A fresh set would rule out any deformities.
Membership Not Required
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: On the road-USA
Posts: 16,855
Bikes: Giant Excursion, Raleigh Sports, Raleigh R.S.W. Compact, Motobecane? and about 20 more! OMG
Likes: 0
Liked 16 Times
in
15 Posts
From the look of that spindle you either have something that was cross threaded in the past or the BB faces aren't quite parallel.
Aaron
Aaron
![Smilie](https://www.bikeforums.net/images/smilies/smile.gif)
__________________
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,572
Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
Liked 445 Times
in
288 Posts
Fussy is right.
I find that adjusting by the book, i.e no play in the spindle, that it often feels
a little tight, i.e. some resistance. But when the cranks and pedals are installed, the
added momentum/centrifugal action corrects this.
It's difficult to explain on paper...
Once adjusted, you should be good for 10-20 years.
How long do those sealed cartridges last?
A modern day classic...
Raleigh Tourist.
![](https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/800x600/_59_74b9620a62cdb79337e5533054c6a49b0f3e9cf4.jpg)
The kick stand looks good....
I find that adjusting by the book, i.e no play in the spindle, that it often feels
a little tight, i.e. some resistance. But when the cranks and pedals are installed, the
added momentum/centrifugal action corrects this.
It's difficult to explain on paper...
Once adjusted, you should be good for 10-20 years.
How long do those sealed cartridges last?
A modern day classic...
Raleigh Tourist.
![](https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/800x600/_59_74b9620a62cdb79337e5533054c6a49b0f3e9cf4.jpg)
The kick stand looks good....
Senior Member
From the look of that spindle you either have something that was cross threaded in the past or the BB faces aren't quite parallel. I also came across this thread too, same problems I’m having. Think I’ll just build it and ride it. Raleigh 3 speed bottom bracket issue
Aaron![Smilie](https://www.bikeforums.net/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Aaron
![Smilie](https://www.bikeforums.net/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Aaron, I feel like the BB Faces are not parallel which is causing the spindle to bind at certain spots. this might be the case. On my 1979 sport that bottom bracket adjusted perfectly. This one is giving me so much trouble.
Last edited by jamesj; 11-24-18 at 11:48 AM.
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,809
Bikes: Lots of English 3-speeds, a couple of old road bikes, 3 mountain bikes, 1 hybrid, and a couple of mash-ups
Liked 337 Times
in
226 Posts
Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed
![](https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/1024x768/img_0090_9020716cbd93bab6e8a5292b56dae35ad84cb43f.jpg)
I just can't decide what to do with this 1969/1970 Sprite. It is a large step-through frame (green) with the original Presstube rack. It must have been stored near pool chemicals or fertilizer since the head badge is corroded a bit. The original downtube shifters were donated to another BF member (left shift lever broken). The rest of the bike is in good condition.I put used trigger shifters on the bars, and worked on getting the bell crank side functional. Now I am thinking that:
I could move the 5 speed rear wheel to a Raleigh Sports that I currently use; and move the 3 speed wheel to the Sprite, and sell it. (that would make the Sprite less desirable)
I could sell the Sprite as it is with a 5 speed rear hub. (that would keep the value)
I could part it out. (probably make the most money, but I hate doing that)
BTW: I have a perfectly good step through frame Raleigh Sports for my dotage; I bought this one because it was there.
![](https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/1024x768/img_0090_9020716cbd93bab6e8a5292b56dae35ad84cb43f.jpg)
I just can't decide what to do with this 1969/1970 Sprite. It is a large step-through frame (green) with the original Presstube rack. It must have been stored near pool chemicals or fertilizer since the head badge is corroded a bit. The original downtube shifters were donated to another BF member (left shift lever broken). The rest of the bike is in good condition.I put used trigger shifters on the bars, and worked on getting the bell crank side functional. Now I am thinking that:
I could move the 5 speed rear wheel to a Raleigh Sports that I currently use; and move the 3 speed wheel to the Sprite, and sell it. (that would make the Sprite less desirable)
I could sell the Sprite as it is with a 5 speed rear hub. (that would keep the value)
I could part it out. (probably make the most money, but I hate doing that)
BTW: I have a perfectly good step through frame Raleigh Sports for my dotage; I bought this one because it was there.
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,809
Bikes: Lots of English 3-speeds, a couple of old road bikes, 3 mountain bikes, 1 hybrid, and a couple of mash-ups
Liked 337 Times
in
226 Posts
[MENTION=398265]BigChief[/MENTION] You have reinforced my first choice.
Haven't had a ride in weeks, no projects going, this is awful. Got to thinking about converting this 70s Sports to a 5 speed with the S5.2 hub I have. Somebody before me laced a CR18 rim onto the 36H AW hub. Done incorrectly, the spokes cross over the air valve. Bugs me. I need to take it apart anyway. Might as well install the S5. Might not be permanent, but a S5 on an alloy rim is always a good thing to have around.
![](https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/1632x1224/73_sports01_63647ec4527da4e854cd783dde5ca4362ea1331c.jpg)
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 540
Bikes: Vilano Urbana, DownTube FS9, Montaque paratrooper, Nano mini-velo, Motobecane CX, Raleigh 20, MIFA folder, ROG Pony, Iverson Grand Touring folder, Exclusiv German folder
Liked 196 Times
in
123 Posts
![](https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/600x450/00y0y_22saiebidsw_600x450_d6eb0ea11b662a9998bfbb411deaeb81c411c361.jpg)
NOT a three speed, but of interest nonetheless. Plus $20
https://baltimore.craigslist.org/bik...752103086.html
Full Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Canberra Australia
Posts: 240
Bikes: 30's Speedwell Club Racer, 40's Speedwell 'Z' racer, 50's Unknown Aussie with nice lugs, 50's Speedwell Roadster, 50's Repco Roadster, '63 Raleigh DL-1, 70's Raleigh Sprite, Puch Promenade with Nexus 8
Liked 30 Times
in
23 Posts
Haven't had a ride in weeks, no projects going, this is awful. Got to thinking about converting this 70s Sports to a 5 speed with the S5.2 hub I have. Somebody before me laced a CR18 rim onto the 36H AW hub. Done incorrectly, the spokes cross over the air valve. Bugs me. I need to take it apart anyway. Might as well install the S5. Might not be permanent, but a S5 on an alloy rim is always a good thing to have around.
![](https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/1632x1224/73_sports01_63647ec4527da4e854cd783dde5ca4362ea1331c.jpg)
![](https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/1632x1224/73_sports01_63647ec4527da4e854cd783dde5ca4362ea1331c.jpg)
For the shifting I'd like to do bare cable through a pulley to the hub, so I'm thinking of making a double pulley - has anyone done this for the 2 cable S5 hubs? I've never seen any reference to Sturmey Archer having made one, maybe they did?
Senior Member
Found a super crappy Sport for $20 bucks. I wasn’t going to buy it but the old lady was nice. And I figured I could just save the parts in case I ever needed them. Rear hub was a shimano coaster laced to RigidaChromage Superchromix 26x1 3/8 rim front is original Sturmey Archer hub and rim. It had a stuck seapost and stuck stem. The stem came out pretty easy but I noticed it was bent. Seatpost was super stuck but I was able to get it out. It is missing fenders, chainguard, and has mismatched brakes. Everything else looked pretty good. Bottom bracket and the headset came apart easily.
Im not sure what im going to do with the frame isn’t bent or anything really wrong with it.
![](https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/800x600/45298108484_cee15ee28e_c_3bd53e69289e26366cc0fe2d5ed5c05414fa8a14.jpg)
![](https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/800x600/46002211642_17f30d6636_c_ac474307c922c9d1979c411a5f91532b51756731.jpg)
![](https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/800x600/46052074791_0e2feed0c6_c_1285cbbcd4bc048b4877bb4167ec58621096ed17.jpg)
![](https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/800x600/45298105894_fcfc2aa5f7_c_18696324dfc76c21e2220d55f363bb569bb0eaa7.jpg)
![](https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/800x600/45110697485_6a6f68aa26_c_2d20740b3350728e1c41cf027e0f840de5e1d0dc.jpg)
Im not sure what im going to do with the frame isn’t bent or anything really wrong with it.
![](https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/800x600/45298108484_cee15ee28e_c_3bd53e69289e26366cc0fe2d5ed5c05414fa8a14.jpg)
![](https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/800x600/46002211642_17f30d6636_c_ac474307c922c9d1979c411a5f91532b51756731.jpg)
![](https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/800x600/46052074791_0e2feed0c6_c_1285cbbcd4bc048b4877bb4167ec58621096ed17.jpg)
![](https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/800x600/45298105894_fcfc2aa5f7_c_18696324dfc76c21e2220d55f363bb569bb0eaa7.jpg)
![](https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/800x600/45110697485_6a6f68aa26_c_2d20740b3350728e1c41cf027e0f840de5e1d0dc.jpg)
![](https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/600x800/45110698265_58a2cccaab_c_069d77e1b5fcb092536b2159731f88e5ac80b4d9.jpg)
You definitely should BC... they're such a cool hub to ride with. I've finally started on my S5 project bike. I found an alloy 40 hole AW hub shell locally, and picked up a Resilion front brake as the project bike has no brake drillings. I'm doing this as low budget as possible, so parts collecting has taken a while. I'll post an image once there's a bit more to show; at the moment it's in partly painted pieces.
For the shifting I'd like to do bare cable through a pulley to the hub, so I'm thinking of making a double pulley - has anyone done this for the 2 cable S5 hubs? I've never seen any reference to Sturmey Archer having made one, maybe they did?
For the shifting I'd like to do bare cable through a pulley to the hub, so I'm thinking of making a double pulley - has anyone done this for the 2 cable S5 hubs? I've never seen any reference to Sturmey Archer having made one, maybe they did?
Full Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Canberra Australia
Posts: 240
Bikes: 30's Speedwell Club Racer, 40's Speedwell 'Z' racer, 50's Unknown Aussie with nice lugs, 50's Speedwell Roadster, 50's Repco Roadster, '63 Raleigh DL-1, 70's Raleigh Sprite, Puch Promenade with Nexus 8
Liked 30 Times
in
23 Posts
I never liked the idea of running a fully housed cable all the way down to a stop on the chain stay for 3 speed hubs. The top tube stop and guide wheel feels so much more responsive and precise. A sprite I have originally had two top tube mounted stick shifters with full housed cables to a stop on the seat stays on both sides. I changed the right side 3 speed to the usual top tube stop and guide wheel and handlebar mounted 3 speed trigger. For the left side bell crank, I used a handlebar mounted SunTour power shifter, fully housed cable along the top tube to the original stop on the seat stay. Works well, but now that I look at it, I think the top tube looks too cluttered with all those cables. This time, I think I'll route the bell crank cable along the down tube to a stop on the chain stay. I am satisfied with a fully housed cable to operate the bell crank.
That was another option I was contemplating - and you're right, with a rear brake cable there might be too much action on the top tube. I have a bike set up with a Sachs 3 speed coaster hub, and that's running bare cable from a stop on the down tube through a pulley at the bottom of the seat tube. I've read that some people don't like this routing as you can snag your heel on the bare cable, but I've never experienced this. A chain guard would easily take care of this if it was an issue.
Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 33
Bikes: 1962 Royal 3 speed, 1986 Jetter 15 speed
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
![](https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/600x400/1954_rudge_e3382a2d25ccacf4b19a72ec1457a328c595b071.jpg)
https://denver.craigslist.org/bik/d/...757531064.html
Craigslist Denver, CO - For sale in Longmont, CO
VERY RARE 1954 Rudge-Whitworth 3-speed bicycle - $350
(Not my CL posting, just sharing in case anyone here is interested)Phyllo-buster
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,870
Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic
Liked 2,073 Times
in
1,263 Posts
The main problem the bottom routing is that an SA hubs finicky gear adjustment will be altered with any axle movement in the dropouts, for instance if you slide the wheel back in the drops to take up chain slack. A top mounted pulley/cable intersects with the axle perpendicular to the the drops so the gears remain more or less unaffected by wheel adjustments. As BC suggests, it tends to stay more precise.
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,809
Bikes: Lots of English 3-speeds, a couple of old road bikes, 3 mountain bikes, 1 hybrid, and a couple of mash-ups
Liked 337 Times
in
226 Posts
![](https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/600x400/1954_rudge_e3382a2d25ccacf4b19a72ec1457a328c595b071.jpg)
https://denver.craigslist.org/bik/d/...757531064.html
Craigslist Denver, CO - For sale in Longmont, CO
VERY RARE 1954 Rudge-Whitworth 3-speed bicycle - $350
(Not my CL posting, just sharing in case anyone here is interested)Full Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Canberra Australia
Posts: 240
Bikes: 30's Speedwell Club Racer, 40's Speedwell 'Z' racer, 50's Unknown Aussie with nice lugs, 50's Speedwell Roadster, 50's Repco Roadster, '63 Raleigh DL-1, 70's Raleigh Sprite, Puch Promenade with Nexus 8
Liked 30 Times
in
23 Posts
Full Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Canberra Australia
Posts: 240
Bikes: 30's Speedwell Club Racer, 40's Speedwell 'Z' racer, 50's Unknown Aussie with nice lugs, 50's Speedwell Roadster, 50's Repco Roadster, '63 Raleigh DL-1, 70's Raleigh Sprite, Puch Promenade with Nexus 8
Liked 30 Times
in
23 Posts