For the love of English 3 speeds...
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Old English roadsters have been a hobby of mine for many years. Yours is a good one. Well worth the effort. I know it's in rough shape, but that's part of the fun. I generally wire brush loose rust off and give the insides of the mudguards a fresh coat of enamel paint. Here's my latest project bike. A Raleigh made Rudge hub date 1951. And what the front mudguard looked like when I first got it.
Glad you're back.
Hump, what hump?
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Old English roadsters have been a hobby of mine for many years. Yours is a good one. Well worth the effort. I know it's in rough shape, but that's part of the fun. I generally wire brush loose rust off and give the insides of the mudguards a fresh coat of enamel paint. Here's my latest project bike. A Raleigh made Rudge hub date 1951. And what the front mudguard looked like when I first got it.
One puzzling thing about my bike is the mounted headlight with no dyno hub. Maybe the original owner can clear things up whenever I get around to emailing him.
Ordered some parts today, including the indicator pin and an axle nut. Hopefully the IGH is in decent condition.
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2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1993 Cannondale RS900 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1988 Nishiki Olympic ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Ciocc Competition SL ** 19?? Roberts Audax ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1982 Mercian Olympic ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1993 Cannondale RS900 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1988 Nishiki Olympic ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Ciocc Competition SL ** 19?? Roberts Audax ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1982 Mercian Olympic ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
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Sweet-looking bike. Now I have an example to emulate! Did you paint just the fenders/mudguards, or the whole bike? The paint on mine is not too bad, except along the top tube where the extra shifter is mounted.
One puzzling thing about my bike is the mounted headlight with no dyno hub. Maybe the original owner can clear things up whenever I get around to emailing him.
Ordered some parts today, including the indicator pin and an axle nut. Hopefully the IGH is in decent condition.
One puzzling thing about my bike is the mounted headlight with no dyno hub. Maybe the original owner can clear things up whenever I get around to emailing him.
Ordered some parts today, including the indicator pin and an axle nut. Hopefully the IGH is in decent condition.
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They're Still Out There
Vintage Norman
Seller says
18" frame w/ 24" wheels (they look 26" to me...)
$100.00...
Vintage Norman
Seller says
18" frame w/ 24" wheels (they look 26" to me...)
$100.00...
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That's in amazing condition. Looks like somebody kept it in their living room all these years. I think Norman was one of the factories TI closed down after the consolidation in 1960.
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S/A shifter issue
I have a 1969 Armstrong with an AW hub and what I think is the original shifter. I've been messing around with it since I cleaned it up. The problem I have is that the shifter is reluctant to go from "N" to "3". Sometimes it shifts properly, and sometimes you have to wiggle the lever or force it into high. It always shifts down properly to "N" and "1". Just an hour ago I applied a liberal dose of Tri-Flo into the mechanism and took it for a couple of test rides. It may be marginally better, but not good enough yet.
I am using the original cable housings and new stainless steel internals for both brakes and shifter.
Comments?
I am using the original cable housings and new stainless steel internals for both brakes and shifter.
Comments?
Count Orlok Member
I have a 1969 Armstrong with an AW hub and what I think is the original shifter. I've been messing around with it since I cleaned it up. The problem I have is that the shifter is reluctant to go from "N" to "3". Sometimes it shifts properly, and sometimes you have to wiggle the lever or force it into high. It always shifts down properly to "N" and "1". Just an hour ago I applied a liberal dose of Tri-Flo into the mechanism and took it for a couple of test rides. It may be marginally better, but not good enough yet.
I am using the original cable housings and new stainless steel internals for both brakes and shifter.
Comments?
I am using the original cable housings and new stainless steel internals for both brakes and shifter.
Comments?
The best shifting I have is with a metal cable guide pulley; the worst, cable housed all the way to the hub.
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You could also take the hub apart and stretch the clutch spring out some.
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I've always liked the big Birmingham chain guards but it's a little overwhelming stuffed into this (possible) junior frame. Looks like the jumbo Lucas King of the Road light set. Nice little bike! Raleigh made models with 24" wheels around 1960 this could be similar. See how close to the ground the mudguards are?
Last edited by clubman; 05-22-19 at 05:23 PM.
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I've always liked the big Birmingham chain guards but it's a little overwhelming stuffed into this (possible) junior frame. Looks like the jumbo Lucas King of the Road light set. Nice little bike! Raleigh made models with 24" wheels around 1960 this could be similar. See how close to the ground the mudguards are?
The proportions are so nice.
I hope that someone who appreciates it will buy it.
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I have a 1969 Armstrong with an AW hub and what I think is the original shifter. I've been messing around with it since I cleaned it up. The problem I have is that the shifter is reluctant to go from "N" to "3". Sometimes it shifts properly, and sometimes you have to wiggle the lever or force it into high. It always shifts down properly to "N" and "1". Just an hour ago I applied a liberal dose of Tri-Flo into the mechanism and took it for a couple of test rides. It may be marginally better, but not good enough yet.
I am using the original cable housings and new stainless steel internals for both brakes and shifter.
Comments?
I am using the original cable housings and new stainless steel internals for both brakes and shifter.
Comments?
Some snap sharply into place while others are more subtle...
The relationship between the trigger, cable and hub
is another trinity.
Any problems are usually traced to the cable.
Sometimes a small kink or some frayed wires.
I agree that the open cable/pulley system is best.
I also like the look better.
On my new (1954) bike I have the same issue.
It does not snap back to 3 but I haven't had a chance to
investigate. It looks like the original cable.
Also, the hub when spinning, is almost silent.
I don't hear that "Tickety Tick" sound.
It seems to work just fine.
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Trash Talk
Picked up this am.
Canadian built
Picked up this am.
Canadian built
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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It's French but it has a Sturmey. Nice little 27" wheel bike.
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...894666690.html
bicycle frame material: aluminum
bicycle type: cruiser
frame size: 54 cm
wheel size: other/unknown
Needs a tuning and shining up but she could be so pretty! The color is unusual and amazing.
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...894666690.html
Silver Lilac 70s Vintage Motobecane Nobly Bicycle - $50 (Bon Air)
bicycle type: cruiser
frame size: 54 cm
wheel size: other/unknown
Needs a tuning and shining up but she could be so pretty! The color is unusual and amazing.
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I have a 1969 Armstrong with an AW hub and what I think is the original shifter. I've been messing around with it since I cleaned it up. The problem I have is that the shifter is reluctant to go from "N" to "3". Sometimes it shifts properly, and sometimes you have to wiggle the lever or force it into high. It always shifts down properly to "N" and "1". Just an hour ago I applied a liberal dose of Tri-Flo into the mechanism and took it for a couple of test rides. It may be marginally better, but not good enough yet.
I am using the original cable housings and new stainless steel internals for both brakes and shifter.
Comments?
I am using the original cable housings and new stainless steel internals for both brakes and shifter.
Comments?
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I agree. The clutch spring isn't very strong so the less friction you have from the cable, the better. That's why SA came up with the open cable/ guide wheel method. Even if the long housing to cable stop on the chain stay works, it always feels mushy to me.
You could also take the hub apart and stretch the clutch spring out some.
You could also take the hub apart and stretch the clutch spring out some.
All of my bikes (current and past) have specific "personalities" with regards to the shifting.
Some snap sharply into place while others are more subtle...
The relationship between the trigger, cable and hub
is another trinity.
Any problems are usually traced to the cable.
Sometimes a small kink or some frayed wires.
I agree that the open cable/pulley system is best.
I also like the look better.
On my new (1954) bike I have the same issue.
It does not snap back to 3 but I haven't had a chance to
investigate. It looks like the original cable.
Also, the hub when spinning, is almost silent.
I don't hear that "Tickety Tick" sound.
It seems to work just fine.
Some snap sharply into place while others are more subtle...
The relationship between the trigger, cable and hub
is another trinity.
Any problems are usually traced to the cable.
Sometimes a small kink or some frayed wires.
I agree that the open cable/pulley system is best.
I also like the look better.
On my new (1954) bike I have the same issue.
It does not snap back to 3 but I haven't had a chance to
investigate. It looks like the original cable.
Also, the hub when spinning, is almost silent.
I don't hear that "Tickety Tick" sound.
It seems to work just fine.
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Count Orlok Member
The Armstrong has an open pulley shift cable, and new inner cables (shift & brake) in the original housings. It really feels like the trigger is hanging up. When it doesn't snap into 3rd from "N", I can barely force it there. Most of the time wiggling the trigger up and down allows it to go into position.
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The Armstrong has an open pulley shift cable, and new inner cables (shift & brake) in the original housings. It really feels like the trigger is hanging up. When it doesn't snap into 3rd from "N", I can barely force it there. Most of the time wiggling the trigger up and down allows it to go into position.
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1967 Raleigh Rodeo 3+2
I posted this in for sale, but I figure you guys might want to look at this one.
eBay / CraigsList finds - "Are you looking for one of these!?" Part II
eBay / CraigsList finds - "Are you looking for one of these!?" Part II
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A 1967 Raleigh built Super Cycle for $100.00
Toronto Kijiji
Toronto Kijiji
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Couple very interesting locals for sale
Very interesting rare looking Raleighs. First is one claimed to be 1961 with an IGH and also a derailleur. A mix of parts and maybe all doesn't add up, but the price seems reasonable for what is there.
https://toledo.craigslist.org/bik/d/...895914139.html
Of more interest is this 5 speed Sprite with the IGH and twin shifters. I of course know next to nothing about either of these but thought others may enjoy. I would seriously be interested in the green Sprite except didn't want the whole bunch. It does appear to be mint.
https://toledo.craigslist.org/bik/d/...894287042.html
https://toledo.craigslist.org/bik/d/...895914139.html
Of more interest is this 5 speed Sprite with the IGH and twin shifters. I of course know next to nothing about either of these but thought others may enjoy. I would seriously be interested in the green Sprite except didn't want the whole bunch. It does appear to be mint.
https://toledo.craigslist.org/bik/d/...894287042.html
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Hmmm...that is unusual. The only other non cable things I can think of are: the trigger case is bent not allowing the hardened plate to move freely. Or maybe the pin that runs through the hardened plate into the case sides is rusty causing binding. Might be worthwhile to soak the assembly in Evaporust overnight or in vinegar for a couple of days. Or if you have the hub apart check the the key isn't binding in he axle slot. It wouldn't hurt to give the clutch spring some stretch. I'm sure it has taken on some set over the years. Especially if it was stored with the shifter in low or normal position for a long time.