For the love of English 3 speeds...
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They're overpriced, but I usually get one of these modern ones and install them through Raleigh ribbed housing, when the combo calls for it: https://www.amazon.com/CABLE-Speed-S.../dp/B000AO5K5G
I always save the adjuster end off of trashed cables to re-use - I always solder a brass sleeve onto the end of the new cable after cutting it to length, instead of dealing with that terrible cable clamp provided on the aftermarket sets.
-Kurt
I always save the adjuster end off of trashed cables to re-use - I always solder a brass sleeve onto the end of the new cable after cutting it to length, instead of dealing with that terrible cable clamp provided on the aftermarket sets.
-Kurt
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Gster, all I want is the inner wire. I have plenty of fresh housing. But I can't find a source for just the wire. Well, actually, I noticed that Jagwire offers them in the UK, so I've emailed to ask if they have them available here. My LBS guy tells me he grinds down the nub on a derailleur wire to make it work. I may have to bring a wire over and use his grinder. We'll see.
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They're overpriced, but I usually get one of these modern ones and install them through Raleigh ribbed housing, when the combo calls for it: https://www.amazon.com/CABLE-Speed-S.../dp/B000AO5K5G
-Kurt
-Kurt
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Gster, all I want is the inner wire. I have plenty of fresh housing. But I can't find a source for just the wire. Well, actually, I noticed that Jagwire offers them in the UK, so I've emailed to ask if they have them available here. My LBS guy tells me he grinds down the nub on a derailleur wire to make it work. I may have to bring a wire over and use his grinder. We'll see.
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The last time I ordered cables I think it was actually cheaper to buy the whole kit then to buy just the wire.
None of the local shops stock anything here, many don't even do repairs. They tell you 'go to our website' or 'drop it off, we have a guy who comes on xday to do repairs.
The last time I ordered the kits they were under $6 each but its been a few years now.
I like the idea of using the stainless cable and making it fit, it sort of makes it a forever fix since rust is usually what kills cables.
It wasn't all too long ago I was still able to buy ribbed cable housing, but I don't remember who had it. I ordered a roll of it in red for a project I was doing about 5 years ago or so.
On most of my bikes I try to run only the original one piece original cables, I hopefully have stashed enough away to last me the rest of my life.
The last drawer full of them came from a shop that closed up in the 70's.
None of the local shops stock anything here, many don't even do repairs. They tell you 'go to our website' or 'drop it off, we have a guy who comes on xday to do repairs.
The last time I ordered the kits they were under $6 each but its been a few years now.
I like the idea of using the stainless cable and making it fit, it sort of makes it a forever fix since rust is usually what kills cables.
It wasn't all too long ago I was still able to buy ribbed cable housing, but I don't remember who had it. I ordered a roll of it in red for a project I was doing about 5 years ago or so.
On most of my bikes I try to run only the original one piece original cables, I hopefully have stashed enough away to last me the rest of my life.
The last drawer full of them came from a shop that closed up in the 70's.
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I happened on a parts bike today that looks like its going to give me some proper Dunlop rims for the Dunelt I picked up back in January.
They came along with two other bikes, one being a mid to late 60's Raleigh Sports, in a 22" frame, and a 1961 ladies sports that's all torn apart.
The rims that came off the Sports are pretty close to being correct for the Dunelt, the hub is dated 1962, the rims are worlds better than what I had. They have some
brake wear on the sides but not nearly as bad as what I had. The rear rim has a small dent on the inside face, but its dead true and not rusty.
The tires are even usable if I don't swap over the original Dunlop tires from the existing rims. I should be able to make that bike 100% now.
Plus, I now have a Raleigh Sports as well to play with, although its a mix of random parts. The fenders are black, likely off the ladies bike, the forks are green, and the frame is brown, and its got a brooks padded saddle that likely came off a later Sprite. Its probably a candidate for a full repaint to make everything match.
Here's the wheels after a quick wash:

I was able to ride the Sports with these rims, it actually rode just fine.
How many would just lube the wheel bearings and oil the hub and call it good on the rear wheel?
Or should I break open the hub and go completely through it? Its shifts fine as is, but I have no history on it at all.
I'm also not thrilled with the 'Safety-Lite' tires on these rims, they're in okay shape for now but I strongly prefer a more conventional British looking tread.
These have their share of sidewall cracks but nothing that will be of any concern anytime soon. And even these would look better than a modern too narrow set of Kenda tires in my opinion.
They came along with two other bikes, one being a mid to late 60's Raleigh Sports, in a 22" frame, and a 1961 ladies sports that's all torn apart.
The rims that came off the Sports are pretty close to being correct for the Dunelt, the hub is dated 1962, the rims are worlds better than what I had. They have some
brake wear on the sides but not nearly as bad as what I had. The rear rim has a small dent on the inside face, but its dead true and not rusty.
The tires are even usable if I don't swap over the original Dunlop tires from the existing rims. I should be able to make that bike 100% now.
Plus, I now have a Raleigh Sports as well to play with, although its a mix of random parts. The fenders are black, likely off the ladies bike, the forks are green, and the frame is brown, and its got a brooks padded saddle that likely came off a later Sprite. Its probably a candidate for a full repaint to make everything match.
Here's the wheels after a quick wash:

I was able to ride the Sports with these rims, it actually rode just fine.
How many would just lube the wheel bearings and oil the hub and call it good on the rear wheel?
Or should I break open the hub and go completely through it? Its shifts fine as is, but I have no history on it at all.
I'm also not thrilled with the 'Safety-Lite' tires on these rims, they're in okay shape for now but I strongly prefer a more conventional British looking tread.
These have their share of sidewall cracks but nothing that will be of any concern anytime soon. And even these would look better than a modern too narrow set of Kenda tires in my opinion.
I've got bikes from the 50's that came to be 10 or so years ago with perfect chrome, and several of my personal rides still have perfect chrome after years of use.
Worn through rims were never an issue until lately for some reason, and I can't see it just being contributed to them being used for so long because many of the wheels I came across have been parked and have sat for decades or more. I've got a Dunelt myself that I've owned for 45+ years, it was my beater bike for the first 10 years and it lived outdoors under a tarp for another 10 yet the rims are like new. I rode that bike all year long, through road salt, rain, dirt, everything and the rims shine like the day they were new. The old Lucas Cyclometer turned over a dozen or more times back in the day and the rims still look just fine.
These bikes had decent chrome, and mine shows no wear after all these years, yet I see bikes that were obviously garage queens that have worn out rims.
All I can figure is like my grandpop used to say, "Some folks can break a crowbar in a sandbox".
The bikes that really get me are those with the oddball jury rigs. I had a guy bring me a bike a few months ago because he couldn't figure out how to get the tire off.
The fact he couldn't change the tire or get the wheel off didn't surprise me, but the fact that he rode the bike with the rear fender pushed in and rubbing the tire for so long that the reflector screw basically cut the tire in two halves right down the middle. An hour after he picked it up, he calls me to tell me its the best tire he ever had, the bike even pedals easier now. (I bent the fender back out away from the tire while the wheel was off, plus I adjusted the brakes so they didn't rub, and trued the wheel a bit). The tire wasn't anything special just a $12 Kenda tire. It won't last though, that sort of bike owner sooner or later screws something up one way or another. Its only a matter of time he bashes that fender back into the tire and grinds down another tire.
I never understood how someone could ride a bike with something dragging like that, so much wasted energy for nothing.
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Can we get back to talking about bikes and moan about sales and flipping in the Valuations forum where this belongs?
It's bad enough that all 3-speed convos have become lumped into this monolithic thread that's impossible to search through easily; worse when it's full of these text walls of local market analyses - 3-speed content or otherwise.
Well, that confirms the last part of what I suspected - the chrome bikes and the Rudge are almost identical in specification.
So that's your 1979 DL-1, as purchased, with chaincase, correct? I find it interesting that it's obviously a US-spec model with Rampar logos everywhere, but the chainrugard is isn't US-spec, as if it was added after the fact.
Does it have any "Made in England / Assembled in Canada" stickers similar to the US bikes mentioned earlier? It might explain part of the combination of a US frame with the international-spec transfers on the chainguard.
What year is it? The tubing sticker and vertical "RALEIGH" lettering look early-1960s.
-Kurt
It's bad enough that all 3-speed convos have become lumped into this monolithic thread that's impossible to search through easily; worse when it's full of these text walls of local market analyses - 3-speed content or otherwise.
Well, that confirms the last part of what I suspected - the chrome bikes and the Rudge are almost identical in specification.
So that's your 1979 DL-1, as purchased, with chaincase, correct? I find it interesting that it's obviously a US-spec model with Rampar logos everywhere, but the chainrugard is isn't US-spec, as if it was added after the fact.
Does it have any "Made in England / Assembled in Canada" stickers similar to the US bikes mentioned earlier? It might explain part of the combination of a US frame with the international-spec transfers on the chainguard.
What year is it? The tubing sticker and vertical "RALEIGH" lettering look early-1960s.
-Kurt
I wish 3-speeds would get a sub forum in C&V. I suggested that a couple of years ago, but no dice. This thread alone has thousands of responses. Maybe one day...
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"Hey boss. You know that 3-speed shift wire that was too short? Fixed."

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Gster, all I want is the inner wire. I have plenty of fresh housing. But I can't find a source for just the wire. Well, actually, I noticed that Jagwire offers them in the UK, so I've emailed to ask if they have them available here. My LBS guy tells me he grinds down the nub on a derailleur wire to make it work. I may have to bring a wire over and use his grinder. We'll see.
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I just buy shift cable. Ace Hardware sells brass tubing in some really small sizes; I bought some of that and cut it to size, fit it over the shift cable and crush it to swage it to the cable. A little solder doesn't hurt either. Cheap, easy albeit a bit geeky but that is what nutters do.
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There's a Bell Systems crimper tool that makes good crimps for brass hobby tubing over shifter cables.
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With the seat slammed there might not be an option. I bet if you raise the seat a little you can make that rack position less sickening but there ain't a whole lot of seat stay to work with. Y'know, there are bigger things to worry about, but they're on BIGGER BIKES!! Gotcha.
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I'm not as offended by the rack as some others, but I'm almost certain that it is designed to fit a Sports. There's no way that's going to fit right, saddle adjustment or otherwise. The nose of the rack simply doesn't have enough droop.
This one has 1962 hubs on it....It's funny how some of these bikes will turn up a second time, which often is not the case when you actually find something you want to buy.
I wish 3-speeds would get a sub forum in C&V. I suggested that a couple of years ago, but no dice. This thread alone has thousands of responses. Maybe one day...
I wish 3-speeds would get a sub forum in C&V. I suggested that a couple of years ago, but no dice. This thread alone has thousands of responses. Maybe one day...
A 3-speed subforum? Perhaps a bit too separate, but the amount of discussion here does suggest that a 3-speed subforum would not be wasted (but would it be too divisive?). Still doesn't negate how much I hate this pseudo-Discord thread. Maybe it wouldn't irritate me if they'd just install software to downsize the photos to 600 or 800 pixels or so, with "click for full size" as an option. I have a 2K monitor in the middle of my three-screen setup here, and even then, it's easy to miss text between images.
Still, C&V is second only to Road Cycling for post activity here (2.1 million posts to-date vs. 3.9; we're about half the size), and Road has no subforums, which ought to suggest just how unlikely it'll be that we'll get one. Lousy upper-management.

I just buy shift cable. Ace Hardware sells brass tubing in some really small sizes; I bought some of that and cut it to size, fit it over the shift cable and crush it to swage it to the cable. A little solder doesn't hurt either. Cheap, easy albeit a bit geeky but that is what nutters do.
-Kurt
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I learned years back on this list that crimping a #3 fishing leader makes for a nifty cable end.

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