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What component change makes the most dramatic difference?

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What component change makes the most dramatic difference?

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Old 11-16-14 | 09:06 AM
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Apologies for what might be an irreverent post. But, thanks to Bob Hanson for originally posting that photo over on the CR list this morning. I really needed a good laugh this morning..and that did it.
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Old 11-16-14 | 09:09 AM
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That's OK, rootboy. I'm fixing myself a second breakfast to replace the one I tossed. No worries.
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Old 11-16-14 | 01:24 PM
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Old 11-16-14 | 04:52 PM
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I swap out the old bicycle for a different bicycle fairly regularly. Seems to make a difference.
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Old 11-16-14 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by noglider
People are interpreting my original question in various different ways, and that's cool, because the responses are interesting.

When we were 14, my friend and I put toe clips on our bikes at the same time, and then we took a long ride. We loved them so much and swore we would never go back.

In my early 20's I had some shoes with slotted cleats, and they have an obvious advantage over not having cleats, but they were kind of scary. I rarely set my right strap tight.

In my late 20's clipless cleats came out, and to me, the difference between that and toe clips was about as dramatic as the difference between no foot retention and toe clips.
I agree with this.

Clipless pedals,
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Old 11-16-14 | 06:55 PM
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I switch this part out, and I swear I can feel the difference:

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Old 11-16-14 | 07:44 PM
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Most bang for your buck:

A KMC z50 chain, coupled with a Shimano hyperglide freewheel. The Shimano freewheels are ugly but usually worth it IMO.
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Old 11-16-14 | 10:01 PM
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I'd say changing the frame makes the biggest difference LOL!

But seriously, i think tires make the biggest difference as they telegraph the bumps affecting the way you interface with bars, saddle, cranks,etc. My second choice would be brakes, a spankin new set makes a massive difference on the backside of every hill.
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Old 11-16-14 | 10:05 PM
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A lot of assumptions. If you're riding a road bike, changing the handlebars won't have anywhere near the impact other changes will.....
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Old 11-16-14 | 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by nlerner
I swap out the old bicycle for a different bicycle fairly regularly. Seems to make a difference.
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Old 11-16-14 | 10:52 PM
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Bikes: Specialized Tarmac (carbon), Specialized Roubaix (carbon, wifey), Raleigh Super Course (my favorite), and 2 Centurion project bikes.

Clicked on this thread because I also own a Super Course, 1984 model. I purchased it in near-new condition. Slowly, I removed its original components, put them in a special box, and replaced them with modern, more-functional components.

The only thing I DIDN'T change was the handlebars. :--) I like the old 38mm spread on these OEM drop bars. For me, it feels right, and the drop bars offer a number of different hand positions you cannot get with flat bars.

However, I DID replace the following:

1. Wheels. The OEM front Araya had a dish in its seam. Changing that wheel was a no-brainer, a necessity.
2. Sprocket assembly. The OEM 12x23 was not my friend on these long local steep hills. A 14x28 gave me the large cog I needed.
3. Rear Derailleur. The old derailleur didn't work well with the new, wider-spread sprocket assembly. So I installed a new, longer RD. Problem solved.
4. Front Derailleur. Because it was cheap and it works like buttah.
5. Brake hoods. Those little holes in the OEM Dia-Compes look cool. But it's still metal against your hands. The new Cane Creek brake hoods are lovely, soft rubber that invite and encourage your hands to rest there, whether sitting or standing.
6. Brakes. Another no-brainer. Modern, brushed aluminum Ultegras provide superior braking with easily replaceable shoes.

Which one is the most significant in terms of changing the bike's personality? Probably items 1 through 6.

I love this bike now. But it took awhile. . .

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Old 11-17-14 | 12:10 AM
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Components? Yeah, it has to be the bars. I've hated every bike I've ridden in the last ten years that doesn't have drop bars.

MTBs excepted; although so far every MTB I've converted to drop bars has been greatly improved.
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Old 11-17-14 | 05:36 AM
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I tried replacing a pedal with a handlebar, but the bike was nearly unrideable afterwards. So I replaced the headset bearings with chain links, but that just made it worse.

I don't think I'm cut out to be a mad scientist.
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Old 11-17-14 | 07:03 AM
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[MENTION=190941]jimmuller[/MENTION] - Don't count yourself out! if only 1% is successful....... Try replacing the saddle with a handlebar. I've not done it but I have seen many ride on the front with their feet on the front axle and sitting on the bars. That would be dramatic and different. Do they make stems with a 27.2 Diam?

The question did not say anything about improvement!
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Old 11-17-14 | 09:56 AM
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The things I feel make the biggest difference, in order:

1) tires
2) handlebars
3) saddle
4) brake pads
5) rear cluster
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Old 11-18-14 | 04:28 PM
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Bikes: lemond gan glx.'93.Trek 2300 carbon.Koga'M roadracer '82.Some other's that keep changing

yeah, i had a print out bespoke fit in the 90/s and it suggested 44c/c bars and they just felt so right from the 42's.yes much better for out
of the saddle up hilling everything.it also said 172.5 cranks so i switched to them and they feel better.
yes they do say lighter wheels are the best instant upgrade i suppose for up hilling especially.
but they can also be the largest expense.
yes and its a great feeling when you know you have really good quality brake pads.

best wishes kevin

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Old 11-18-14 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by gomango
1) Physical fitness.

Seriously, go ride a lot, lose some weight and you'll notice all of your bikes seem better in so many ways.

2) Tires.

Don't be a cheapskate.
Second this, particularly number two. I took your suggestion from way back and put some Vittoria Open Corsa SCs on my regular rides and there's a noticeable increase in ride quality. I'm liking 23s and above these days

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Old 11-18-14 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Drillium Dude
I took your suggestion from way back and put some Vittoria Open Corsa SCs on my regular rides and there's a noticeable increase in ride quality.
Increase over what? FWIW, I really liked the ride quality of those on the Masi when I used them, but the tread sure wore thin quickly. Now the Masi's clincher wheel have 23mm Veloflex and I think I like them as much or more.
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Old 11-18-14 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Drillium Dude
Second this, particularly number two. I took your suggestion from way back and put some Vittoria Open Corsa SCs on my regular rides and there's a noticeable increase in ride quality. I'm liking 23s and above these days

DD
Well DD, I am just about to finish the build on my Kvale and I came to the same conclusion.

Toss on the Open Corsa SCs. Just a great tire for the $$$.

Now if we could just lose the 2" of ice on our streets I could give them a spin.
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Old 11-18-14 | 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
First thing I thought of was wheels/tires as to the feel of the ride. I have done more handlebar changes than any other thing though, so I think that handlebar changes necessitate a saddle change or at least an adjustment. For example, right now I have a Brooks B67 on my mountain bike drop bar conversion (1995 Trek 820), because it's the only saddle I have at the moment that is "free". I definitely feel & know that this is NOT the right saddle for me on this bike, and it will be changed once I acquire another black Brooks B17. However, if I had different handlebars on this bike I could likely use this saddle, so again....boils down to handlebars. Interesting topic. Interested to see what others say.
I second your original vote for tires. Then again, if the stem isn't right and the reach is too long, I won't be comfortable enough to care about the tires. BTW which 820 do you have? The sage green or the ice teal with the fade?
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Old 11-18-14 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by noglider
For me, changing handlebars on a bike changes the bike's character more than anything, because it affects rider position so dramatically. My Super Course came to me with drop handlebars. I've had all-rounder (slightly bent upright) bars, forward bending bars, north road bars on it. For a while, I flipped the north roads upside down, but I didn't like that. Currently, it has all-rounders with bar ends added.

I can't find a picture of the bike with the drop bars.

It currently has these all-rounders.

Matching the ride to your moustache is all important.
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Old 11-18-14 | 09:26 PM
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Of course changing the bars for another style has a massive impact: that's geometry for you.

But without changing geometry, replacing your OEM wheels with a lightweight tubular wheelset will give the most noticeable difference, then maybe tires and chain. Brakes that work in all conditions help too: even just pad material.

IMHO, the crank is fairly insensitive unless you change ratios. It's hard to find classic cranks in a compact size, though... and who ever though a 52-49 combo was useful obviously does not live in the mountains.

Saddle? who sits down to ride hills?
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Old 11-18-14 | 09:54 PM
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[MENTION=317821]Ramona_W[/MENTION] - I have the Ice Cyan fade to Ice Blue/Violet. I did a drop bar conversion on it and am giving this format a whirl. I agree with you on the reach statement. That affects how the bike handles and your comfort or discomfort.

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Old 11-19-14 | 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by jimmuller
Increase over what? FWIW, I really liked the ride quality of those on the Masi when I used them, but the tread sure wore thin quickly. Now the Masi's clincher wheel have 23mm Veloflex and I think I like them as much or more.
23s compared to 19s, a noticeably cushier ride. Additionally, they've held up well, look the business with tan sidewalls and - as Grady notes above - they're simply great value for money.

DD
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Old 11-19-14 | 04:06 AM
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I would have to agree with Tom. Bars or saddle make the biggest difference especially in comfort. Usually that means riding or sitting. To each his own.
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