Dealing With Tragedy: The Passing Of The Quill Stem
#151
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Meh. Slightly less ugly ≠ a thing of beauty.
I understand why threadless stems exist, but I don't don't want one on a roadbike. Unless I get a be-logoed, plastic modern wunderbike someday. Because beauty doesn't come anywhere near that thing anyway.
I understand why threadless stems exist, but I don't don't want one on a roadbike. Unless I get a be-logoed, plastic modern wunderbike someday. Because beauty doesn't come anywhere near that thing anyway.
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
#153
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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#154
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Functionally I prefer threadless, no question. Maybe there's a certain satisfaction some get from winding a quill stem around the bends of drop bars. Or using the coin and bolt trick to pry the clamp open to clear the bends of some bars or to keep from scratching the clamp section of the bar.....but not me.
That said, if it's aesthetics that you really care about (and we all do), then for me it's all about context. Vintage bikes get quill stems, mostly. Modern steel bikes with 1" head tubes get whatever you want. Modern steel bikes with 1 1/8" or 44mm head tubes get threadless. Modern aluminum and carbon "wunderbikes" (<-- ??) get threadless. Tube size has a lot to do with it, too. Bottom line: I think both can be fantastic depending on the application.
#155
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Earlier in the thread, someone had asked about threadless stems with the steerer pinch bolt in front of the steerer. I have a couple in the parts box. I think they're trek system 2 stems from the mid 90's. The face plate is still on the front, but with only 2 bolts, it's not as noticeable. The stem is also rather thin for a threadless stem.
(not my image)
I'd gotten them to put on Soma Hi Rise threaded to threadless adaptors on various builds, but didn't like the look. I'd hoped I could put a large bell to hide the joint and make it almost look like a super tall nitto technomic with removable faceplate or something, but it just didn't look right (and the thomson threadless stem that's on one of them now doesn't look terribly out of place with the fat tubing of a cannondale st-400 - especially since it's a mutt with the VO Crazy Bars).
#156
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A new thing is always ugly. I'm sure when safety bicycles came out the retro grouches of the time complained about how ugly they were compared to the elegant beauty of an ordinary. Quill stems were always a bit of a hack design anyway. Early ones all looked awkward. Only with time did they gain a degree of elegance.
I prefer the new threadless stems overall, but quill stems do have the advantage of easy adjustability.
I prefer the new threadless stems overall, but quill stems do have the advantage of easy adjustability.
#157
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I'll agree on tube size. A quill stem would look very wrong with fat carbon tubing.
Earlier in the thread, someone had asked about threadless stems with the steerer pinch bolt in front of the steerer. I have a couple in the parts box. I think they're trek system 2 stems from the mid 90's. The face plate is still on the front, but with only 2 bolts, it's not as noticeable. The stem is also rather thin for a threadless stem.
(not my image)
I'd gotten them to put on Soma Hi Rise threaded to threadless adaptors on various builds, but didn't like the look. I'd hoped I could put a large bell to hide the joint and make it almost look like a super tall nitto technomic with removable faceplate or something, but it just didn't look right (and the thomson threadless stem that's on one of them now doesn't look terribly out of place with the fat tubing of a cannondale st-400 - especially since it's a mutt with the VO Crazy Bars).
Earlier in the thread, someone had asked about threadless stems with the steerer pinch bolt in front of the steerer. I have a couple in the parts box. I think they're trek system 2 stems from the mid 90's. The face plate is still on the front, but with only 2 bolts, it's not as noticeable. The stem is also rather thin for a threadless stem.
(not my image)
I'd gotten them to put on Soma Hi Rise threaded to threadless adaptors on various builds, but didn't like the look. I'd hoped I could put a large bell to hide the joint and make it almost look like a super tall nitto technomic with removable faceplate or something, but it just didn't look right (and the thomson threadless stem that's on one of them now doesn't look terribly out of place with the fat tubing of a cannondale st-400 - especially since it's a mutt with the VO Crazy Bars).
Alloy Ritchey stems look great. Skinny unlike the carbon fat things.
#158
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I love the look of the old quill stems...But every time I fell off my bike I seemed to get nailed in the groin by them lol.
#160
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Part of an incredible overall design.
I wish Vanilla was still putting these out there.
I'm not into Speedvagen all that much......
#161
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#162
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On a classic or older bike, quill stems are just so pretty.
#163
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#164
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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Those threadless stems are very nice.
My thinking is that the nicest look for a threadless stem would be
- No protruding bolt at the rear, use pinch bolt in front of the steerer
- Slimmer stem tube, maybe solid for the slimmest profile, if hollow then ovalized since a stem sees mostly vertical forces and not much horizontal force
- A clamp that doesn't have bolts protruding at the front, so either a traditional closed clamp or an open face clamp opening downwards
- Polished alloy finish
My thinking is that the nicest look for a threadless stem would be
- No protruding bolt at the rear, use pinch bolt in front of the steerer
- Slimmer stem tube, maybe solid for the slimmest profile, if hollow then ovalized since a stem sees mostly vertical forces and not much horizontal force
- A clamp that doesn't have bolts protruding at the front, so either a traditional closed clamp or an open face clamp opening downwards
- Polished alloy finish
Another.
Ringle and others did it, too.
Last edited by thumpism; 11-30-16 at 11:17 AM.
#165
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RB-T Stem.JPG
#166
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That thin wall with a perfect sharp stress point at the front scares me.
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#167
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I think the syncros cattle head was a good looking threadless stem for MTB at the time. I do like the look of nice modern machined threadless stems like thomson. they also did a similar clam design to the syncros at one time.
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#168
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This style of clamping simliar to the Cinelli 1/R is already weak with the evidence of many of them "creaking".
Above a 130mm length my vote goes to the 1975 3ttt Record.
Last edited by avhed; 12-05-16 at 06:35 PM.