Help Needed for Rear Rack Box
#1
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Help Needed for Rear Rack Box
Things are finally coming together. I have all of the items that I have been needing to make this idea come true.
1. Box
2. Ortlieb mount
3. Rear Rack
4. Tools to install the box
Now I'm not sure which direction to install the box.
If I install the box backwards, it looks more level, the lid opens all the way, but the latch and reflecter/strobe light are backwards or facing forward.
If I install it with the latch and reflecter facing the correct way, the box is not level and the lid doesn't open all the way.
Which way do you think I should install it?
1. Box
2. Ortlieb mount
3. Rear Rack
4. Tools to install the box
Now I'm not sure which direction to install the box.
If I install the box backwards, it looks more level, the lid opens all the way, but the latch and reflecter/strobe light are backwards or facing forward.
If I install it with the latch and reflecter facing the correct way, the box is not level and the lid doesn't open all the way.
Which way do you think I should install it?
#2
It appears that regardless of position, the lid would open enough to fully load and unload.
I'd leave it in the proper orientation so your reflectors work properly, plus you can tie the lid "open" by strapping it around your seat post and then you can overload the box and bungee/tie it down to your rack. That's probably what I would do anyway, at least if the need arises.
I'd leave it in the proper orientation so your reflectors work properly, plus you can tie the lid "open" by strapping it around your seat post and then you can overload the box and bungee/tie it down to your rack. That's probably what I would do anyway, at least if the need arises.
#4
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I am almost done installing the mount. I had to modify the mount because the screws that were supplied are crap. On the upper portion of the mount, the piece that mounts to the box itself, I will be replacing those with stainless steel. I also drilled all the way through the mount and will be placing a nut on the inside of the box. The screws that were supplied were cheap and the Phillips head strips out easily due to the fact that the holes for the screws aren't pre-threaded and it gets harder and harder to screw them in as you get farther and farther into the mount. I don't know how much effort it would have taken to rip off the box from the mount but it will be nearly impossible with bolt and nut setup in place. I also drilled the holes to allow me to switch the mount around 180 degrees if I choose. I like the idea of being able to strap (bungy net) something on top, something to big to fit into the box and have it ride level on the box lid. Also, when I add a saddle bag it might (I haven't tested it yet) not allow the lid to fully open without holding it open. This would suck. I used the saddle bag for my battery to power my GPS. If I used the box, I would have to drill another hole in the box to allow the USB cord to enter somewhere leaving it less waterproof. I'm not too concerned with it accidentally opening while underway. The latch is designed well. As far as the reflecters are concerned, I already have a Superflash on the back with reflecters on the frame and fender. I kinda like the idea of one facing forward to flash red. Anyway, I will install the box with the light to the rear and if I don't like it I can turn it 180 degrees and it will still work. I still don't have the stainless steel bolts. That will have to wait until I get to Lowe's.
Last edited by IndianaShawn; 03-07-12 at 11:21 PM.
#5
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Ok, I have my bolts, nuts and washers. I went to Lowe's and I purchased 6-32 x 1 1/2 stainless steel slotted pan head machine screws. They are a bit long but the only other size was just not long enough. The nuts are 6-32 lock nuts with nylon insert and the washers are #6. The screws will actually thread through the mount providing a bit more strength. I am placing the washer on the head side of the screw with no washer on the inside of the box since it has a lock nut there.
One thing I did to "prepare" the mount was to drill through the mount without effecting the hole walls. I used a small drill bit to just "punch through" the hole on the top side. I used a 7/64 drill bit for drilling through.
Now I had a hole all the way through but the hole was too small to allow me to start my screw (the 6-32 SS screw) from threading. What I did now was to enlarge or "ream" out the surface of the hole with a larger drill bit. I only did the very top of the hole and I used a 5/32 drill bit for this. Now I can start to thread my 6-32 screw (don't forget the washer first).
I am now going to install the box......photos to follow.
One thing I did to "prepare" the mount was to drill through the mount without effecting the hole walls. I used a small drill bit to just "punch through" the hole on the top side. I used a 7/64 drill bit for drilling through.
Now I had a hole all the way through but the hole was too small to allow me to start my screw (the 6-32 SS screw) from threading. What I did now was to enlarge or "ream" out the surface of the hole with a larger drill bit. I only did the very top of the hole and I used a 5/32 drill bit for this. Now I can start to thread my 6-32 screw (don't forget the washer first).
I am now going to install the box......photos to follow.
Last edited by IndianaShawn; 03-08-12 at 03:02 PM.
#7
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Finally finished
Wow, I have been wanting to do this for a long time and it's finally done. I like how it turned out and its very solid. It isn't road tested yet but I like how it looks and feels so far. I did end up using some washers inside the box with the lock nuts and I used a very long socket wrench to help with the nuts. I used a 5/16 long socket with an adapter with the extensions. Hope you like it..........I do!
Last edited by IndianaShawn; 03-08-12 at 04:04 PM.
#8
IMO, something is not right. In the first pictures, when it had the reflectors to the front, the box is level. You should be able to rotate just the box, or the mount so that you get the box level and the reflector/opening facing the rear. Or maybe you need to shim it so that it's level. The way it is now would drive me and my OCD crazy.
#9
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IMO, something is not right. In the first pictures, when it had the reflectors to the front, the box is level. You should be able to rotate just the box, or the mount so that you get the box level and the reflector/opening facing the rear. Or maybe you need to shim it so that it's level. The way it is now would drive me and my OCD crazy.
I can rotate the box 180 degrees if I want the box to be level. All I would have to do is remove 4 nuts on the inside of the box allowing me to rotate the top mount 180 degrees on the bottom of the box and then replace the nuts again. I don't need to remove the screws, just the nuts.
If I do this the box latch and light are facing forward. I guess I could turn the base mount 180 degrees but then the mount lock would be facing forward and the way the box clicks into the mount would be backwards. I guess I could do that and the box would be more level, I think.
#11
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Last edited by IndianaShawn; 03-08-12 at 04:53 PM.
#15
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#17
@OP- what other top boxes/cases did you look at before settling on this one?
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#18
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I'm thinking of adding one of these to the back of the box.
https://www.integratedtrackers.com/GP...em=SpyLamp.jsp
Last edited by IndianaShawn; 03-12-12 at 10:42 PM.





