My experience agrees. Maybe I'll try my fool's method of repairing electronic devices (when you don't know what you are doing) on my dead chargers. Just replace whatever component has a big heat sink on it.

Andy,
what LEDs are displayed on your chargers when you plug in

On one charger, no LEDs light, and the fan does not come on. It outputs a fairly constant 39V.

On the second charger, the yellow LED comes on solid when you turn it on, then after about a minute and a half, starts blinking and the fan comes on. After about 4 hours, the fan and LED go off. It starts out at 39V and gradually drops to 38V.

On the other hand, the one charger that works peaks at a little more than 46V and spends the end of the charge at just less than 44V.

Sometimes this charger starts off with a solid red LED for a while, then a blinking red, then a solid yellow, then a blinking yellow and the fan. After about 4 hours the yellow LED changes to a solid green and the fan goes off. Sometimes it starts right off with the yellow LED. These are expected behavior according to the charger label.

Andy,
The fact that they all output voltage tells me that primary sections of switch mode are OK.
Charging alogarithm which is stored on PIC chips went bad I guess.
This charging scheme tells when to turn current on , off , do all calculations , delta T over time, etc..
If this charger were complete dead it would had been easy to repair of course.
Charger by Power Stream is much simpler just by looking inside.

I have found a company in Germany that can make brake rotors that will fit on an E+ motor. Is there anyone else who wants spare or replacement rotors and wants to go in on a buy? More information about the company is here:

MTB Fahrrad Bremsscheiben | Cantisockel | Disc Shims - BrakeSTUFF
https://shop.brake-stuff.de/en

I thought you can fit small enough disc on any EPLUS motor .
Disk mount screws are for sure standard spacing - no way EMS would use non standard mounts..
Problem can be frame of course - not enough room like in my BIRIA frame .

EPLUS display/controller switches rework.

As we all EPLUS owners know switches on our display/ctr. are not designed right mechanically, soft/erratic/mashy feeling when you press them force us to press them more than once.
Ever wonder why why they don't feel like switches on your DVD player, printer, etc,
I built quality tactile switches into EPLUS display/ctr.
Change is dramatic - crisp clicky feeling allows me to switch fast with light press.
This very important when I approach downhill and need switch to regen FAST and back to drive FAST.

BEAUTY of EPLUS drive are 9 regen braking levels which allows for ZERO brake pads grinding on steep hills.
Again you must be able to switch from say level drive 5 to level regen 5-10 in seconds.
NO WAY it was possible with mashy/erratic action of original switches.
look at pictures
this project for patient el.electronic person with soldering skills.

That's what I thought, until I went to put a standard rotor on an E+ motor. The center hole is much larger than a standard ISO rotor, which in turn forces the mounting bolt pattern onto a larger diameter.

Would you say your modification is weatherproof?

Andy,
it is 100% weatherproof.
Of course I dont use like on the picture,
faceplate with buttons is glued with black silicone /not too much so it would not get into tactile switches/ = rainproof for sure.
I also slightly opened display and apply black silicone into gap between two halves , screw it back tight.
Front window is another story , I found it pretty well sealed already.

Purchase from Rick Ruggiero
So I decided to buy some spares electronics and display/controller from Rick
As you know Rick is former production manager at Electric Motion Systems - manufacturer of EPLUS e bike drive.
So I bought control or I like call it processing board of battery electronics .
and
spare not programmed display/controller.

Did he have any more displays?

As far as I remember from emails exchange he now has only new display/controllers.
for crazy prices of course.

Metalman ,
and other EPLUS owners.
All other ebike owners who want long-range batteries for their rides.
I have bought 5 Nissan LEAF battery modules .
Want to replace LiFePo A123 20 Ah cells with Nissan 41Ah cells. I think 11 in-series, will experiment.
I found after over 500 cycles on A123 that my range is about 50km IMPORTANT - on level 4 whole trip level 4.
I don't discharge more than 12-13Ah for longevity of my pack, I think I can asses usable capacity of my A123 pack at 18Ah.
With Nissan Leaf I can have easly 80km range with no charging .
I have to be careful about connecting 45V to Eplus really.

Powell asked about my experience with Falco, in short it was terrrible.
After about 8 months I did finally get most of my money refunded. I bought the 750w which I knew was a step down in power from my 1000w Eplus, but figured that since I do pedal and with the weight savings it would work out well. The motor would only deliver full power for a short time. I was determined that the internal temp sensor was cutting the power back. This was in the spring with cool outside temps and not overworking the motor. After much back and forth and no real solution they finally agreed to replace the motor with a "new" version that would be out soon. Soon turned into a few more months.
When I did finally get it it preformed much the same way. I didn't waste any more time with it and removed everything and sent it back for a refund. It was then a few more months for that to show up and for some reason I lost about $150 on the deal. I didn't pursue the difference in the refund, at that point I was just glad to get it all behind me.
When the power would cut back it would go as far at the 200w range which is a far cry from the advertised 750w. If it was marketed as a 300w motor it could probably deliver that most of the time. There is no good reason why the motor should overheat and cut power under normal use. This has never been an issue with my Eplus.
I had high hopes for the Falco motor, but it just couldn't deliver. I have trouble figuring out under what circumstances the Falco could work for someone. As I said if it was marketed at a much lower power output then possibly you wouldn't be disappointed in it's output.

thank you Metelman.
Did you actually touched motor right after cut off?
I can't believe it was hot..
Wasn't just software issue?

MM, thanks for the information. If you couldn't get satisfactory performance from their system, doubt many could. I talked to the owner at Interbike last September and he seemed to have their problems resolved, but guess not.

I don't know that the case felt too terribly hot, but I was reading the internal temperature. I tried two motors including the new and improved version with the same results on both.

Metalman,
other EPLUS owners.
I have ridden 19,009 kilometers on my EPLUS as of today,
just crossed 19,000 kilometers on Monday.
Metalman,
how is your Eplus doing ??

It's doing good with over 21000 miles. I haven't been using it much though.

those of you who are interested in long range 36V or48V nominal battery pack for your ebike.
New battery build for my winter EPLUS.
I cannot call my winter ride Tidal Force anymore , what is left from TF is frame, wheels and components .
I switched from TF drive to EPLUS drive last winter.
Not without problems however, had to do some modifications to battery electronics due to extreme cold /was getting ERROR 5/.
So I bought 5 Nissan Leaf modules from 2016 Leaf.
I tested just 2 Leaf cells and realized NEC /Leaf cells manufacturer/ made sure they are well matched and tested.
My build is initially 11S in series , I don't know how Eplus will react to say 48V .
Again,
pack made with Leaf cells can be used on any 36V OR 48V ebike drive.
cell voltage range is 3V min - 4.2 absolute max.

my EPLUS OVER 20,000 KILOMETERS millage
Yesterday when I was riding from work my EPLUS clocked 20,000 kilometers.

Hi
all EPLUS owners, Metalman, others,
yesterday my trustful 1000W Eplus millage reached 21,000 Kilometers /!!!/
incredible of course not without some problems - bottom line motor itself with built in controller is rock reliable,
check my pictures inside EPLUS motor .

My Big Dummy has sat for the last month or so. The last I used it I was getting a weird cogging effect when I pedaled hard. Then when I did go to use it it had a flat tire and just kind of got put on the back burner. I finally got to it yesterday and found the inner cone for the hub bearings was worn terribly. I can only guess the wear spot was oriented to the rear and that why I would only feel it when I pedaled hard. I got a used piece from the LBS and it all works good now. I'm pushing 22,000 miles, 10 yesterday and 40 today.

Metalman,
tank you for answer.
You see I have spare brand new bearings for EPLUS MOTOR from front wheel battery - same as motor.
We must remember that your EPLUS works in heavy duty setup on CARGO ebike.
You mean LBS had any EPLUS parts? thats VERY unusual.
Can you take pictures , please, still quite dont understand "inner core" - what you mean?