Drtumolo

Finally got the motor open. I was hoping to find a broken wire or some obvious physical damage but so far I have found nothing.

2old

Good luck checking the connections. Some of the posters on endless sphere are pretty astute although many deal with very high power systems. You might ask them if you haven't explored that site.

Drtumolo

One thing that seems odd with this system is the control connection at the plug going to the motor has only 3 wires. Orange white and black but the other end connected on the circuit board has additional wires. It is the plug at about 8:00 on the picture above. Seems weird that they would go thru the trouble of landing those wires but not use them?

powell

Tumolo
just noticed your posts.
just make absolute sure - check continuity on black/white /orange wires right on the communication connector soldered to the board.
ERROR 2 generated by PIC chip inside disp/contr. cannot be wrong
this error might be because;
- lack of 5V to the chips , no stepping down from 36V to 5V dead or faulty DC to DC stepdown regulators/ converters: S 813 2 of them/ and PS 767D318
- dead RS-485 tranceiver.
BTW : half-duplex RS-485 protocol use 3-wire for communication - receive, transmit and shield.
when I fixed my Eplus motor electronics on one version1 software motor I replaced tranceiver
but absolute make sure tranceiver gets 5V.
you see this 5V might be only for a moment until error is displayed.
my pics fro disassembly of motor are not necessary, how did you managed to take off this bulky collar to get to snap ring?
I simply slid black cover off the bearing.
unfortunately you will have to read PDF data sheets to figure out pinout of ICs. Google it.

powell

Tumolo,
my fault
just edited IC designations
first measure on S 813.
there are two of them:

powell

this might help

Firedog91902

DrTumolo,
Good job accessing the inside of the E+ motor. An outline of you method and tools used would be appreciated.

It appears the hub motor itself has 3 phase (power) wires and 3 Hall sensors. The phase wires are clear in the picture. I assume the 3 hall sensors are mounted to the small board at 4 o'clock. Red and black for power and the other 3 wires to each of the Hall's output.

If the E+ controller were disconnected and the phase and hall wires properly connected to an external controller, I assume the motor would work fine. Anyone tried it, or know it won't work?

powell

over 25 000 kilometers on my summer EPLUS
my EPLUS has reached over 25 000 kilometers of millage.
it happened just 2 days ago.
again this is my BIRIA summer EPLUS .
in case you are wondering why only 947 charge cycles - it is my second battery .
so 947 cycles on Nissan Leaf cells, 11 cells in series.

Metal Man

Good job, looks like I'm giving up on my EPlus again. I ordered a Bafang mid drive kit. I hope it works out for me.

2old

MM, good luck; I'm sure you'll enjoy just riding and not worrying about maintenance except for a little greater wear on the drivetrain of the bike. Let us know how it works out for you.

Metal Man

I've got my Bafang mid drive kit installed and about 100 miles on it so far. So at 22,300 or so miles I stripped the Big Dummy down, painted the inside of the frame, installed two new wheels with all new front disc brakes. Replaced the shift cable for the rear. The new mid drive gives me an all new crank, chain wheel and bearings and eliminates the front derailer. I'm now ready for another 22,000 miles.

2old

Be greedy and go for 44,000 this time.

powell

here is update on my EPLUS summer one
I have reached over 27 000 kilometers on my summer EPLUS
I am not saying that my EPLUSes were 100% trouble free.
my modification of switches on disp/controller is not exactely what I was planning for .
After my mod DOWN switch activated also CRUSE switch sometimes.

powell

over 27 000 kms
I have reached over 27 000 kilometers on my summer EPLUS

bspierre

Hi all,
So there are still come folks keeping their E+ bikes going. I have two of them, one is still going strong, the other has been laid up for a while because of battery woes.
I know it's the battery because all works fine if I swap in the battery from the working bicycle.
I finally got around to taking the battery apart and I'm charging up the cells individually using a RC hobby charger. Haven't found one dead yet. My fantasy is that once i'm done with that, I'll plug in the normal charger and everything will be fine.
Plan 2 is replace the cells with new D size flat top Nimh cells. Has anyone tried this? I'm wondering if it's doomed to failure because of some unknown detail. I recognize the problem might be in the BMS.
I've got other contingency plans but plan X is to say a fond farewell and move on. E-bike technology has come a long way.

Regards,
bspierre

powell

bspierre
and other EPLUS owners,
I have 10 5-cell modules left from my EPLUS battery conversions.
most of the from less than 5000 miles millage EPLUSes.
to give away for free.
most of those modules still read above 7V I charge them occasionally.
I WILL GIVE THEM AWAY FOR FREE if you pay shipping.
Again they are not new but pulled from below 5000 miles EPLUSses

powell

I can also help anybody to convert their EPLUS to Lithium battery.
You should be electrical person with multimeter.

powell

[QUOTE=bspierre;20529411]Hi all,
"So there are still come folks keeping their E+ bikes going...."

EV drive like EPLUS will last much longer than 20 000 miles.
Once software is loaded and it works and system is initialized properly every time, it is only hardware/wires/cables/connectors which can go wrong - ripped off, shorted, water flooded , switches fail ,etc.
software is not going to dissapear,
EV drive does not care where is voltage coming from , as long as it is within specs.
My EPLUS runs happily on Lithium and it is going to run for another tens of thousends of kilometers, maybe will need bearing replacement eventually.

bspierre

Update:
Several of the groups of 5 batteries read zero volts but each of them took a charge.
When i finished charging the string of 6 groups of 5 batteries, the overall pack read more than 38 volts. I only put 1000mah into each module.
Next I hooked up the two battery wires to a bike and.... nothing. Darkness.
So i disconnected one of the black wires running between the 5 cell modules, breaking the circuit and hopefully resetting the BMS as described in this thread.
I waited over night and the next day I reconnected the modules. I hooked the battery up to a bike and the bike turned on as normal.
A push on the throttle moved the rear wheel.
The battery is now back in the wheel, the wheel is back on the bike and I'm letting it charge over night.
Tomorrow I'll give it a ride and see how it goes.

Powell, I appreciate the offer. If this battery still doesn't work well, I'll take it apart again and test each of the cells more thoroughly for voltage and capacity. Maybe I have a bad cell or two. Popping in a new module will be a lot easier than welding in new cells.
I've always liked the design symmetry of the battery and the motor in the front and rear wheels and I'd like to keep these bikes that way. I'm aware of the benefits of Lipos and the drawbacks of so much weight in the wheels, doesn't matter, they're classics.

wrandyr

Powell,
I don't want to be greedy and offer to take them all, but I would happily take a hub-set.

Randy

powell

Randy
where are you located in USA?

bspierre

Update 2:
Took the bike on a 8 mile ride and returned with 2 of the five bars left on the power meter.
The power level was set at 2 (9 is the max) because that's what I usually ride at. I'm riding for exercise after all.
When i was done with the ride, I set the power to 9 and was able to hit 20mph with no pedaling on level ground.
Bike is back on charge and I'll take it on a more challenging ride tomorrow.
So far I'd say it looks good.

BTW, something that happens on both of my bikes. If i ride at full power for some appreciable amount of time the bike will suddenly shut down. The battery indicator indicates zero.
Turning the bike off and on again sets things right again.
Does this indicate a problem with the battery or the motor? It didn't do this when the bikes were new (many years ago). I've always assumed its some overload protection.

Powell, seems like there is interest in the batteries and i don't want to miss out even though I don't know if i need them. I'll take a set. I'm in Colorado. I could send you a fedex label.
Thanks!

wrandyr

Powell:
Santa Barbara, California

wrandyr

@bspierre:
I have noticed a similar behavior. My ride to work is all uphill. If I forget to charge the battery, and try to go up the hill again at 7, 8 , or 9, the system will shut down. If I set it to 6 or lower, it will continue to run. When it was new, I could go up at any setting two or three times with no problem. I suspect that as the batteries get older, they lose their ability to deliver maximum power in addition to losing some distance-type capacity.

Metal Man

I am willing to sell my batteries that I used on my Eplus. I have two 20ah li ion batteries bought from EM3EV https://em3ev.com/. One is set up to supply the lower voltage to the Eplus electronics and eliminate the front hub. The info on how to do that may be in this thread. I'm in central PA.