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My E+ review

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My E+ review

Old 08-08-17, 09:15 PM
  #401  
Metal Man
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My front hubs were big sealed bearings, the rear is standard Shimano. At least the rive side is, it was the inner bearing race that was worn.
https://photos.google.com/album/AF1Q...F3WFViOs5sRQrC

Last edited by Metal Man; 08-08-17 at 09:22 PM.
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Old 09-16-17, 11:41 AM
  #402  
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Metalman,
sorry for late replay.
here is the picture of EPLUS motor bearing left side .
This bearing is identical to bearing used on original front Eplus in-wheel battery.
high quality obvious.
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EPLUS motor bearing 015.jpg (99.3 KB, 358 views)
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Old 09-22-17, 12:03 PM
  #403  
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What does your rear have on the right side for bearings?

I passed 22,000 miles today. It's been almost seven years.
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Old 09-23-17, 08:01 AM
  #404  
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on right side there is standard Shimano 7-speed cassette mounted on standard bicycle hub or whatever it is called.
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Old 09-24-17, 10:41 AM
  #405  
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Mine has plain old cup and cone bearings on a threaded axle.

16,200 miles and 7 years on it.
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Old 09-30-17, 06:33 AM
  #406  
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Metalman,
22 000 miles - must be the biggest millage EPLUS in all world.
Randy,
thank you for posting, 16 000 miles - impressive indeed.
I am approaching ,almost 23 000 kilometers.
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Old 10-20-17, 11:35 AM
  #407  
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I have two E+ bikes that I have not ridden in quite some time and both of the display controllers do not power up anymore. The batteries have been maintained well and kept fully charged. I tried the soft reset of plugging the controllers directly into the batteries and that doesn't work. Short of having them sent to Rick for an expensive hard reset, is there anything I can do to revive them?
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Old 10-22-17, 07:25 AM
  #408  
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are they both 1000W ?
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Old 10-22-17, 06:48 PM
  #409  
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Yes, they are both 1000W.
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Old 10-23-17, 04:50 AM
  #410  
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what year, or
on motor between spokes sticker
what does it says?
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Old 10-23-17, 10:09 PM
  #411  
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Ebikesrfun, I think the first thing I would do is try to find out how much charge the batteries actually have.
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Old 10-27-17, 05:12 AM
  #412  
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Turns out the culprit was the battery. I took the hub apart and reset the PIC by disconnecting a black jumper for 15 mins. After reconnecting the jumper, I measured the voltage on the red and black points to be 1.5v. I connected two wires to a charger and attempted to charge it. It must have triggered something because the battery is now able to be charged through the normal external cables. All is back to normal and the bike runs.

On another note, my spare controller is having button-not-working issues. How can I rewire it to use new buttons?
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Old 12-25-17, 05:12 AM
  #413  
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Attachment 593221Hi
update on my both Epluses.
I am in process of building battery for my summer Eplus.
here are the pictures
Attached Images

Last edited by powell; 12-25-17 at 05:31 AM.
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Old 12-25-17, 05:21 AM
  #414  
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more pics
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Old 12-25-17, 05:25 AM
  #415  
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my new pack uses 2016 Nissan Leaf cells 11 in series, nominal 40Ah /cell but I am planning on using just 30Ah for longevity of cells.
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Old 12-25-17, 07:46 AM
  #416  
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this one of the modules of Leaf battery I bought , it came from 2016 written off Nissan Leaf.
It contains 8 cells 41Ah (1/3 C discharge)
It is connected in 2S2P configuration since 82Ah.
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1250whlr.jpg (253.1 KB, 289 views)

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Old 12-26-17, 12:26 PM
  #417  
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Leaf battery

@powell
I'm getting the sense that the size/volume of the Leaf battery is roughly equivalent to the E+ hub battery, right?
Is the yellow and black box in the first picture your enclosure for mounting on the bike? Are you putting it on a rack or in the frame triangle?
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Old 12-26-17, 10:03 PM
  #418  
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here is the link to the place I bought my NLeaf modules.

https://evbatterycenter.com/HAC4/ind...2ah&Itemid=605

so volume is a bit bigger weight is more,
again I use 11 cells pulled from modules , so one full module plus 3 cells .

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Old 12-26-17, 10:11 PM
  #419  
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here how I mount my new pack, very low on frame.
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Old 02-21-18, 06:14 AM
  #420  
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here is update on my Nissan Leaf cells battery for my summer EPLUS ride.
Almost complete,
as you can see 11 cells in series
Already tried it on my BIRIA EPLUS.
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Old 06-20-18, 06:32 AM
  #421  
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Powell, or anyone else, can you tell me how to take apart the E Plus rear hub? I separated the two halves, but I'm not sure what to do to expose the electronics on the brake rotor side.
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Old 06-20-18, 02:39 PM
  #422  
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Yes
I took apart 2 EPLUS motors, not easy task.
But I got to electronics side only on one motor.
the thing is that you cannot take off this retaining/ snap ring unless you remove this bulky ring first,
another way is to try to slide black motor cover off the bearing.
let me get home first so I can have a look again.
Miroslaw

Last edited by powell; 06-20-18 at 03:00 PM.
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Old 06-20-18, 03:05 PM
  #423  
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Dennis
your friend described situation with motor quite well.
What I found out - never randomly pull or push power connector on the motor when system is powered up.
spark from charging capacitors can damage DC to DC converter on motor electronics.
It is 2 stage sort of converter.
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Old 06-21-18, 12:57 PM
  #424  
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My power leads have been fine, it's the small plug that has given me trouble in the past. We have made some repairs on the main harness, but just yesterday I noticed a bad spot on the lead for the small plug coming from the motor. It would be nice to get it all the way apart just to look it over for an obvious problem. Thanks for all of your help.
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Old 06-22-18, 07:51 AM
  #425  
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yes
what I found out from EPLUS owners posts here and on TF forum, other forums that people would randomly plug, unplug communication /small round plug/ and power connectors back and for when Eplus was powered. BIG NO, NO.
Motor electronics has inverter and this has capacitors, pulling out or pushing in power connector with battery voltage present causes spikes which can destroy example DC /DC converter.
As I told him first before opening motor comm cable must be checked for continuity , inside comm cable black, white, orange wires must be checked all the way to display/controller.
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