I recently added Cateye Volt 300 headlights to two bikes. One bike has a Cateye Strada wireless computer and the other a Cateye Strada Slim wireless computer. The results were the same on both bikes, when the lights are turned on, the computers stop working. There isn't much room on either bike's handlebars to try to separate the computer from the light. Has anyone had a similar experience? Is there a work around?

I have had similar issues with the exact same items.

I put the computers on the stems on both bikes. Moving the transmitters up as high as possible on the left front fork and mounting the lights on the opposite side (right) of the bar from the transmitters seems to have solved the issue.

I have the light mount under the bar about 3" away from the stem on the road bike and the top of the flat bar on the hybrid.

Wired computers do not get interfered with. I've never figured out the huge attraction of wireless. It's not like it's difficult to run wires and make them almost completely invisible.

this seems to come up fairly often. Generally, the easiest answer is to increase the distance between the light and the wireless computer. This reduces the amount of electrical noise getting to the computer.

Moving the transmitter closer to the computer, as was suggested, increases the strength of the signal received by the computer, and is also a good idea.

the only other idea I can think of is to reduce the amount of noise emitted by the light, and this can be done by adding a metallic shield around the light. The easiest way to experiment is simply to grab some aluminum foil and try wrapping it around the light. If you find a configuration that works, and still lets you operate the light, then you might try a more permanent version. A bit of tubing might be a good replacement, made of aluminum, steel, copper, etc. Another option would be aluminum or copper tape.

The best option would be to complain to Cateye and see if they can replace the light with a newer one that produces less electronic noise! In the United States, the FCC generally requires the manufacturer to repair or replace their product if it interferes with other products.


Steve in Peoria

There are several reasons I use a wired computer:
- Much much longer batter life
- No errors in readings due to wireless (you don't go under a powerline and suddenly it says your max speed was 80mph)
- No headlight interference issues

I just find wired far more reliable.

Theoretically you can also buy either a more expensive wireless computer that uses a more sophisticated communication system (so like $100-$150) that avoids simple lights interfering. Or you can buy a different light that's shielded against emitting the stuff that interferes with the radio waves.

However, my dad has a bike that he breaks down and puts in a bag for travelling, and I thought I would get him an expensive wireless speedometer and that should work. Bought one from Trek. Cost over $100, on his first trip the damn thing claimed his 5 mile ride was 60 miles. :-/

So I say - stick with a wired speedometer. They're just soooo much less hassle.

I contacted Cateye. The explanation was their lights emit radio frequency that interferes with wireless computers. Some of their higher priced lights are shielded to prevent this interference but the model 300 that I bought is not. I returned both of the model 300 lights I had bought.

I wish Cateye would identify which lights are shielded in their advertising!

when I have mine on "strobe" it interferes w reception of some radio stations on my mp3 player / fm radio. I get oscillating static. so I just tune to another station

The work-around is to not by cheap wireless computers. Wired or GPS/ANT+ computers only. For wireless computers, you need a digital signal to eliminate electronic interference.

All LED lights emit a lot of electronic "fuzz" due to PWM control for adjusting the brightness. You probably didn't realize, it but usually you won't get interference if the light is set to maximum brightness. The more powerful the light, the more likely it is to cause interference since the switching currents are higher.

It's caused by electromagnetic interference from the high frequency switching circuitry in the light. (An old fashioned DC flashlight wouldn't do that.)

My brother had that problem, I gave him a small sheet of 3M adhesive mu-metal shielding foil, he attached some to the light, and that fixed the problem. (I use that stuff in my electronics shop at times. I'll dig up the part number if somebody wants it.)