Philips Saferide LED Bicycle Light 80 Lux Generation 2 battery life
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Philips Saferide LED Bicycle Light 80 Lux Generation 2 battery life
I'm thinking seriously about getting one of these. But I need the batteries to last 45 minutes minimum(high setting) at around 15 to 20 deg. F for the ride home(Ni-MH rated at 32 to 95 degrees F). Dynamo version is not an option for several reasons. This is for commuting purposes on my road bike. I have 2 L&M 700's set on low mounted on the inside of the drops. This directs more light forward, plus the amber side lights illuminate my white bars, fork, and wheel to some extent. The indirect light from the amber LED's isn't very noticeable with a lot of ambient light in the area. The problem I have is even with high vis. clothing I still have an issue with cross traffic when I have the right of way. If a car pulls up to an intersection just before I get there, they don't see my light beam(s) because they're on the inside of the drops. That was my only issue last winter. Aside from that, I was able to go full speed confidently through an intersection. So now I'm on a "Side Visibility Kick." This light will be the final piece of the "Can You See Me From the Side?" puzzle. I borrowed a Gen 1 light from a friend a few weeks ago and decided I have to have one of these. One thing I did notice was you really need an auxiliary light when going around corners at normal speed because of the beam pattern. I was able to get 1.7 hrs.(high setting) with stock batteries(2450mAh) at 60 deg. F. The only other light I was looking at was a B&M Ixon IQ Speed Premium, but not a fan of an external battery plus it looks huge!
Reasons to buy:
Can run at full brightness without blinding oncoming vehicles so you aim the light higher for more distance visibility and go at full speed without overrunning your beam.
Uniform beam throw.
The lens is about 2.5mm thick, and is very noticeable from the side as it has a bright glow around the perimeter. This is one of the reasons I want to use it on high.(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTGqv6ejSLI)
The light beam itself is more noticeable from the side compared to my current setup.
At what point does the Gen2 get noticeably dimmer? I'm assuming where as Gen1 stays at full intensity until throttled down to Eco-mode, the Gen2 stays on high longer, but starts to dim.
What would be the best way to insulate the Saferide housing to extend the battery life in cold weather?
Is there enough of a difference between Gen1 & Gen2 to go with the Gen2?
Reasons to buy:
Can run at full brightness without blinding oncoming vehicles so you aim the light higher for more distance visibility and go at full speed without overrunning your beam.
Uniform beam throw.
The lens is about 2.5mm thick, and is very noticeable from the side as it has a bright glow around the perimeter. This is one of the reasons I want to use it on high.(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTGqv6ejSLI)
The light beam itself is more noticeable from the side compared to my current setup.
At what point does the Gen2 get noticeably dimmer? I'm assuming where as Gen1 stays at full intensity until throttled down to Eco-mode, the Gen2 stays on high longer, but starts to dim.
What would be the best way to insulate the Saferide housing to extend the battery life in cold weather?
Is there enough of a difference between Gen1 & Gen2 to go with the Gen2?
Last edited by landdnl; 11-01-14 at 12:02 PM.
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Huh. I thought Philips had pulled out of the bicycle light market. Learn something new everyday
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These are shaped beams so won't help a lot with cross traffic.
Get a helmet light.
Get a helmet light.
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What is noticeable to cross traffic is the glowing ring around the circumference of the lens even though it's only about 2.5 mm thick. I'm trying to get away from using a helmet light. When it gets real cold/windy, I'd rather use my helmet cover.
Last edited by landdnl; 10-27-14 at 07:56 PM.
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While the 'ring glow' was noticeable in the link you provided, the camera was mounted next to it- it may not be as noticeable 'in the wild' like you've experienced with other light's side markers.
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So, I'm just saying there's not one lighting component that I have that's going to make the difference between being seen at all angles, but the cumulative effect of all will work quite well. My thinking is it's better to overpay for visibility now than to end up with hospital bills(or worse) later. Sorry, this is starting to sound like the commuter's forum. LOL
Last edited by landdnl; 10-27-14 at 07:54 PM.
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I own a v2 of the Phillips Saferide, and have been testing the battery life. Here's what I got, at indoor room temperature:
2700mah rechargeable AA's -
High: 1:53
Low: 3:12
Off: 3:55
"Low" is the point where the light starting dimming below the regular light output of low mode. You can also switch it back to high mode from low mode when it switches automatically, and probably get another half hour of runtime on high mode out of it if you want. (Haven't gotten to testing it yet).
If I was riding with a light in the cold, I would...use a dynamo, lol. But for AA batteries, the Eneloop Pro's are the highest capacity (2550mAh type, 2450mAh min) nimh batteries that I know of that specifically claim to have improved chemistry for working in the cold:
Amazon.com: Panasonic BK-3HCCA4BA eneloop pro AA High Capacity New Ni-MH Pre-Charged Rechargeable Batteries, 4 Pack: Electronics
I own a B&M Ixon Premium as well. The beam pattern is much better for making turns. And the battery life is much longer as well - it ran on high for 6.5 hours with the same 2700mah batteries. But I can't immediately recommend it over the Saferide. The Ixon Iq Premium uses an LED with a fairly strong purplish tint to it, and it doesn't appear quite as bright. It works ok, but I find myself preferring to use the Saferide instead so far because the light it throws out does a better job at illuminating stuff on the trail, and it's just warmer and feels nicer. Dunno. We'll see.
Regarding visibility, I don't think the shaped beams are actually any less visible than non shaped beams to cars, if they're mounted in the same place. So far I feel like if they see one solid beam, they see the other. If you want more visibility, the thing to do is to put a reasonable-light-output front flashing light on the bike. Human eyes see flashing lights much easier than solid lights.
2700mah rechargeable AA's -
High: 1:53
Low: 3:12
Off: 3:55
"Low" is the point where the light starting dimming below the regular light output of low mode. You can also switch it back to high mode from low mode when it switches automatically, and probably get another half hour of runtime on high mode out of it if you want. (Haven't gotten to testing it yet).
If I was riding with a light in the cold, I would...use a dynamo, lol. But for AA batteries, the Eneloop Pro's are the highest capacity (2550mAh type, 2450mAh min) nimh batteries that I know of that specifically claim to have improved chemistry for working in the cold:
Amazon.com: Panasonic BK-3HCCA4BA eneloop pro AA High Capacity New Ni-MH Pre-Charged Rechargeable Batteries, 4 Pack: Electronics
I own a B&M Ixon Premium as well. The beam pattern is much better for making turns. And the battery life is much longer as well - it ran on high for 6.5 hours with the same 2700mah batteries. But I can't immediately recommend it over the Saferide. The Ixon Iq Premium uses an LED with a fairly strong purplish tint to it, and it doesn't appear quite as bright. It works ok, but I find myself preferring to use the Saferide instead so far because the light it throws out does a better job at illuminating stuff on the trail, and it's just warmer and feels nicer. Dunno. We'll see.
Regarding visibility, I don't think the shaped beams are actually any less visible than non shaped beams to cars, if they're mounted in the same place. So far I feel like if they see one solid beam, they see the other. If you want more visibility, the thing to do is to put a reasonable-light-output front flashing light on the bike. Human eyes see flashing lights much easier than solid lights.
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+1 for the eneloops. I've been using the AAA's for a couple years now on my tail lights, including winter, and haven't noticed that much of a difference between temperatures as far as the frequency of charging, although tail lights take a lot less juice than an 80 lux headlight. Thanks PaulRivers for the battery life info. It seems there's not a huge change in battery life between Gen 1 & Gen 2 in this regard. I tested at 1.7 hrs. before going to Eco-mode and you had 1:53 before noticeable dimming. What you said about the purplish tint was another factor against the Ixon. I still can't get use to some of the car headlights that exhibit this.
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+1 for the eneloops. I've been using the AAA's for a couple years now on my tail lights, including winter, and haven't noticed that much of a difference between temperatures as far as the frequency of charging, although tail lights take a lot less juice than an 80 lux headlight. Thanks PaulRivers for the battery life info. It seems there's not a huge change in battery life between Gen 1 & Gen 2 in this regard. I tested at 1.7 hrs. before going to Eco-mode and you had 1:53 before noticeable dimming. What you said about the purplish tint was another factor against the Ixon. I still can't get use to some of the car headlights that exhibit this.
There's a few big changes between Gen 1 and Gen 2. I own lights from both (mine is roughly Gen 1.2, I got it off amazon us) -
1. Color Temperature. Gen 1 is 5500k and it's a stark white. I'm torn on how I feel about it - you feel like you can see a lot, but it destroys your ability to see outside the beam. Gen 2 is a lower color temp than that, and so far I prefer it. You can still see things fine, and it's easier to see outside the main beam.
2. "Low" mode on the Gen 1 is more of an "emergency backup" mode in my opinion. "Low" on the Gen 2 is a higher and very decent amount of light. I usually have no problem riding most of the time on "Low" on the gen 2 version for the whole ride. When I turn the light on on Low sometimes I forget that it's not on high. Etc.
3. It sounds to me like you've already using a Gen 2 light if you actually make it to 1.7 hours. The Gen 1 light has a hard limit at 1.5 hours where it drops out of high mode to low mode - it's a timer, not a measurement. Either you're off by 0.2, or you do have a Gen 2 light. Gen 1 lights won't go back into high mode after it drops without removing the batteries and putting them back in again (or plugging into a charger). Gen 2 lights, you can hit the power button to go back to high mode if you want.
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The lens is about 2.5mm thick, and is very noticeable from the side as it has a bright glow around the perimeter. This is one of the reasons I want to use it on high.(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTGqv6ejSLI)
The light beam itself is more noticeable from the side.
The light beam itself is more noticeable from the side.
I have the dynamo version of the Saferide. I seem to get a lot of respect out there. A lot of pedestrians jaywalk and walk in the bike lanes here. When they seem me aim straight for them with my headlight on, they get out of my way. Maybe my maniacal look contributes to that.
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Fyi. You can order version 2 at amazon.de for just a couple of dollars more then version 1.x from amazon.com including shipping to the US. Philips Beleuchtung LED Bike Light 80 Lux, Batterie-Verison, 38760533: Amazon.de: Sport & Freizeit
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Fyi. You can order version 2 at amazon.de for just a couple of dollars more then version 1.x from amazon.com including shipping to the US. Philips Beleuchtung LED Bike Light 80 Lux, Batterie-Verison, 38760533: Amazon.de: Sport & Freizeit
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Here's another example of your poorly researched posts you present as fact when you don't know anything about the subject...You ripped into drum brakes using an example that doesn't apply and rudely dismissed them....
That sounds a lot like a "after extensive training in the olympic sport of drum brake removal, the gold medalist was able to remove it in 10 seconds" kind of answer.
From a quick search, here's a guy who had to go to 4 bike shops to find a guy who had the right tool to remove his drum brake -
https://www.bikeforums.net/tandem-cyc...e-removal.html
From a quick search, here's a guy who had to go to 4 bike shops to find a guy who had the right tool to remove his drum brake -
https://www.bikeforums.net/tandem-cyc...e-removal.html
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Then you posted this gem:
Well, since it's "no big deal for anyone with simple mechanical abilities", let's go through the possibilities:
1. You were really drunk and wandered into a walgreens, thinking it was a bike shop
2. You fell asleep watching tv and got a tv episode confused with a half awake dream
3. The "bike shop" you went into is a front for a money laundering or drug dealing organization...for your own safety, I highly suggest you go somewhere else for bike repairs!
1. You were really drunk and wandered into a walgreens, thinking it was a bike shop
2. You fell asleep watching tv and got a tv episode confused with a half awake dream
3. The "bike shop" you went into is a front for a money laundering or drug dealing organization...for your own safety, I highly suggest you go somewhere else for bike repairs!
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Oh man, I had forgotten about that second one, that was hilarious.
A number of people who have owned drum brakes have posted about their issues with them from owning them. (Not that their aren't also other, different issues with other braking systems which I've also posted about). It's just my experience that if 25% of people say they're a real pain, another 25% of people claiming they're "easy" and using a lot of adjectives to describe them are usually wishful thinkers. I work in software, where I hear a lot of "that's easy" followed by 1 week of desperately trying to get something to work that's the exact opposite of easy. I've had people claim that taking off the exact IGH hub that I own is quick and easy and I gotta tell you - I've taken it off, and it's neither quick nor easy. (Which doesn't relate to drum brakes as mine does not have them).
A number of people who have owned drum brakes have posted about their issues with them from owning them. (Not that their aren't also other, different issues with other braking systems which I've also posted about). It's just my experience that if 25% of people say they're a real pain, another 25% of people claiming they're "easy" and using a lot of adjectives to describe them are usually wishful thinkers. I work in software, where I hear a lot of "that's easy" followed by 1 week of desperately trying to get something to work that's the exact opposite of easy. I've had people claim that taking off the exact IGH hub that I own is quick and easy and I gotta tell you - I've taken it off, and it's neither quick nor easy. (Which doesn't relate to drum brakes as mine does not have them).
Last edited by PaulRivers; 10-24-14 at 01:20 PM.
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Paul,
Thanks for posting the differences between the gen-1 and gen-2 Saferide lights. Now I'm debating whether to get a gen-2 or a B&M Ixon Premium.
Thanks for posting the differences between the gen-1 and gen-2 Saferide lights. Now I'm debating whether to get a gen-2 or a B&M Ixon Premium.
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Fyi. You can order version 2 at amazon.de for just a couple of dollars more then version 1.x from amazon.com including shipping to the US. Philips Beleuchtung LED Bike Light 80 Lux, Batterie-Verison, 38760533: Amazon.de: Sport & Freizeit
#23
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For me this would come down to battery life. If my rides in the dark were almost always less than 2 hours I would get the phillips. If my rides in the dark were occasionally more than 2 hours I would get the B&M. I ride a lot in the dark for less than 2 hours, but I also ride a lot in the dark for more than 2 hours; B&M for me.
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I'm sure this is annoying to read so often, but you have no idea how FREEING it is to have a dynamo powered lighting system. It feels GREAT to have a constant concern just go away and never come back. If my bike rolls, it lights.
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BTW. Does this quote ring a bell? Be assertive. If you command respect, you’re more likely to get it(https://patch.com/new-jersey/southorange/the-go-to-bike-guy).
I happen to come across this a couple of weeks ago. Two winters ago I was quite apprehensive approaching an intersection(especially at night). One reason was my lighting wasn't that great. I would slow down approaching an intersection, and there was a good chance someone would pull out in front of me. Last winter(much better lighting) when I approached an intersection I would actually speed up a bit and it works. Of course, always have a plan B if the motorist does pull out in front of you! Anyways, that's the first time I heard that said.