I had the same problem when I got my first good road bike - it came with a Selle Italia 'Turbo' saddle - a pretty common saddle for the era. My next bike has a very similar looking saddle made by Velo (with a Ritchey logo, I think) and I did not have the numbness problem. I eventually figured out that an important aspect of saddle design is the profile as viewed from the back. The Velo saddle had a very flat profile across the widest part of the back, while the Turbo had a very rounded profile. When I go saddle shopping now, I try to get one that is nice and flat across the back, and approximately the same width as saddles that I have had that I know to be comfortable.

My current favourite saddles are an old Specialized Body Geometry Comp and an even older WTB SST saddle. Mine are looking pretty ratty these days, though, so I will have to find something similar in the next season or two. Also, firmer saddle tend to be more comfortable for long rides than softer saddles, at least for me.

If you are going to take advantage of your lbs's saddle exchanges, try to return any that are unacceptable before there is any noticeable wear on them. For most saddles you have to ride some distance before they look used. If you feel bad about returning a saddle that you don't believe can still be sold as 'new', offer to pay a 'restocking fee' to cover the difference in price between a new and slightly used saddle.

I once heard saddle shopping described as, "put $600 in an account and start buying saddles. When you've emptied the account, refill it and start again."

I don't think it's all that bad, but for sure saddle shopping can be involved and success can be elusive.

I'm putting a huge plug in for Selle AnAtomica. A classy leather saddle, cutout available, that truly is comfortable right out of the box!

I have been riding leather saddles for a LONG time, Brooks B-17 which I really like a lot, but the AnAtomica really does have Brooks beat for immediate comfort. I don't know how, as they are hard when new, but they are butt magic, and even available in color..

And, your local dealer can get it thru QBP..... https://selleanatomica.com/collections/x-series

I've had similar problems for years and did the $600 account thing (essentially). What I discovered is that I like a saddle with a flat profile and an aggressive cutout. What I have been using are Koobi saddles specifically the Alpha. While it's a bit on the heavy side, for my new bike build I went with a Selle Italia SLR Superflow that has a large cutout, is very light and has a flat horizontal profile. Works really well and I like it a lot.

There is no need to suffer with this and it's just plain unhealthy. Many LBS and even on line retailers will allow you to try a saddle and see what you think. There really is no other way to go about it. Everyone's hinder is unique.

J.

Cut out saddle solved that problem for me. I think it comes down to finding the right saddle --usually a trial and error process. And recumbents aren't necessarily a universal solution. I had more problems with the numbness of "recum-butt" for the two years I rode recumbent --than I ever had on a saddle. And on a recumbent you don't get to stand up and let the area get some circulation and air.

I think the process of finding a saddle goes like this:

1. Determine if you need a flat horizontal profile or a non flat one. Non-flat is like the Selle SMP or Selle Anatomica saddles. In those, you essentially sit in a single position, generally a significant depression or sling-like spot in which you sit. Flat saddles are those that are like the Fizik Versus saddles, most of the Specialized saddles, Selle Italia and Koobi style saddles. These give you more positions in which to move around on the saddle. Generally, I think that most people are happier with flat horizontal profile saddles.

2. Determine if you have narrow or wide spacing on your sit bones. If in doubt, go wide. Wide saddles are typically wider than 140mm across the back. Narrow saddles tend to be 130mm or so across the back.

3. Then worry about cutout width and length. in general, if you have sized the sit bone width correctly you'll want it to be as wide of a cutout as you can find that still gives you good positioning on your sit bones. Also, longer cut outs tend to be better than shorter ones. In other words, you want to give the sensitive areas as much space as you can get them.

Finally, if you have wide sit bone spacing and you've been riding on a narrow saddle, you can often just fix the problem by getting a wider saddle.

All of this is a generalization because there is no such thing as two hinders that are the same. Of course, it's important to make sure your saddle is properly positioned in the first place. It's possible to screw up any saddle's comfort by having it in the wrong place for your proper bike fit.

J.

Thanks for all the replies.. I adjusted the tilt of the seat and moved it forward which has given some relief. As my sit bones get more accustomed to riding I am getting more comfortable but 20mi. rides still produce some numbness. It's been a cold spring here in Northern Michigan so I'm still riding in jeans, that might be part of the problem too. Now I have to figure out how to stop my nose from running like a faucet in the cold. I'm already feeling increased stamina. A 10mi. ride that would have exhausted me two weeks ago is no problem now and quite enjoyable.

If the numbness is anything BETWEEN your legs (perineum or your package), it's because you are pressuring the nerves or blood vessels there. That's not good and potentially serious.

If the numbness is basically your a$$ (sit bones and butt muscles) then that's conditioning.

J.

Lots of good advice above. I would also consider seeing a physician.

As everyone has said, it sounds like a new saddle is in order, but before you do that STOP riding in jeans and wear either a pair of bike shorts or liner shorts under a pair of shorts or at least sweats. You definitely need something if you're planning to ride regularly before chafe yourself raw.

Your nether regions will thank you for that.

I'm too tired to read everything in detail but I think I see two things not mentioned.

One, make sure you stand often and get weight off the saddle. I would try spending 5-10 seconds either standing on the pedals with minimal pedalling or sprinting/quick climbing. Do this every couple minutes.

Also wear padded shorts. If it's cold get some tights or even sweatpants over the shorts. But anything besides jeans.

I can see the combination of jeans and not moving on the saddle cutting off blood flow.

Agree with stanseven that getting weight off the saddle on a regular basis can be helpful.
I used WTB Rocket V Race saddles on two bikes before switching to recumbents. Perfectly comfy but still the rare mild NPS (Numb Pecker Syndrome).
Not a problem at all on the 'bents.

Good advice mostly, saddles are too personal for me to try and steer someone on which and how. I think that time riding will get you to not being bothered by the numbness, once your position and the saddle placement get right. Having some good riding shorts, and tights for cold weather, will make for a better riding experience, and less of the pains, chaffing and discomfort, that using jeans brings on. Some like using riding shorts and/or long tights, some cannot having cycling shorts on, now. Up to you, completely. Best of luck on your riding, it just gets better as you continue to log the miles.

Bill

Once I got a saddle that let me sit on my 'Sit Bones' without pushing them apart or together I was fine.
,,,To the point where my equipment seems to like the ride,, even really like the ride ,,,, If'in ya get my drift..

Of course you could try a modern saddle, If your not too set in your ways to try something different..
https://www.ismseat.com/saddle/index

My MTB saddle,, It has three ride positions, Climbing, Speed, and Resting, curved down at the rear to help me slide off the back and get back on when I'm doing steep drops.
Peak ? ISM

They even have a 'Demo' program,,,, How about that !


"Like all ISM saddles, the Peak is nose-less and designed to remove pressure from soft tissue, ensuring maximum blood flow, no genital numbness, and a healthier, more enjoyable ride. "

This should not be necessary if you have the correct fit and a proper saddle that allows you to sit on your sit bones.

J.

My two cents: I no longer have problems with any of my three roadies. I learned rather late in life that I shouldn't expect to "sit" on my saddles, but rather suspend myself on them. I tilted them flat, and moved them forward somewhat. For the first ride, I did feel less securely planted on the saddle, but I quickly adapted to the feeling and my quads adjusted so I no longer felt as if I was sliding forward.

And now I can spin more freely.

I'll try some different saddles as soon as I find a place that has an exchange program. In the meantime I have moved the saddle all the way forward and it's perfectly level. It seems to help sitting further back on the seat. That area is higher than the front part of the seat so soft tissue has less contact. Now my right knee is acting up but that's a different story. Too many years skiing moguls. My knees creek and groan just walking. Getting old isn't a whole lot of fun but it beats the alternative. I'm trying to do more RPM to minimize torque on the knee joints.

That's a good idea. I think it takes a while for the knees to get "in shape" for cycling. I read the lubrication in the joints has to develope.
I believe in spinning as much as I can. I climb about 300,000 feet per year and I'm over 200 pounds and I've had great luck with my knees. "Spin to win".