Me neither!



I used to. Raised my BP it did, why I don't anymore. I'm still grumpy onced in a while, but not as long or as hard as back when NPR was tuned in.

Thanks again! Got a pair incoming, maybe before next w/e.

I can't remember any time that down-tube shifters put me at such a disadvantage. True, they wouldn't work well in a final sprint in a race; but I do ride hard, and sometimes with someone else who also does, but not in a pack. What might make it a little harder is the bigger jumps we used to have between gears back in down-tube friction shifters' heyday; but today you can get 10-speed Dura Ace indexed down-tube shifters, and maybe 11 or more—I haven't checked.

Neither have I. I think they went about it all wrong. They should have used something like the model-aircraft servos which have to be small and light for their power, and they don't require battery current to hold their current position. Then a very short cable could connect to any brand of derailleur, and the computer would be programmed for the right position for that derailleur and any brand of cassette, with any cog spacing and any number of cogs, and would know the right trim for the front derailleur of any brand, and any crankset, for the various gears.

Same here. I can do all my own bike work, but I quit working on my cars many years ago.

A friend of mine who always wants the latest had the same experience.

If it were a common problem, I suppose one could keep a spare cable in the seat bag. They're light and don't take any significant space.

Except that with some brifters, it's a huge PITA, takes forever and you have to have the right tools. One can tie off a cable or jam a derailleur fairly quickly. I used to see this back in my group ride days, how I learned to do it. So the electrical thing does have an advantage there.

I think I've only done it on 9-speed 105, and it was not difficult, and I didn't need any special tools; but I've heard it can be extra bad depending on where the cable breaks. It's probably best to look in there periodically, and if you see a broken cable strand, replace it while you're at home, before you're out on the road.

True. But it's very different with the 10-speed.

My indexed downtube shifter has been a bit sloppy for about 20 years (I bought the bike in 1986). I recently found indexing innards for the exact lever I have at loosescrews.com. When I received them, the receipt had a hand written note that said "You got the last one!".

Old men riding old bikes - so appropriate.
Old men of a certain age - not you kids in your 50s, early 60s.
There is soooo much more to cycling than training for speed.
Or shifting efficiency.
Go have some vintage fun.

The guy in the yellow jersey reminds me = leg hair removal time.

edit: No personal picture .... ..... .... you can thank me now.

To be clear, the guy in the yellow jersey makes a good picture, but he's AI. Funny handlebar, cranks not opposed...

AI fun.

Reality is but an image - credit given to the creators.

Got my 1999 DAHON working yesterday and ready for next Sunday's Senior Games 5K and 10K TT. Customized it with a 60 tooth chainring, 10 speed Shimano SLX shifter and Deore rear, Old style Profile Aero bars


Photo before mods. Age bracket is 75yo-79yo

Yeah, I bought a pair after reading your suggestion. I'm gonna fit 'em in a little while, maybe mount my MB on my KickR to try 'em out. Thanks for the suggestion!

Snowing like crazy overnight here, about 9°F last time I looked... not heading outside anytime soon, let alone to go ride a bike out there

Most of my bikes, except for 2 have downtube friction shifters, the other two are briftors, I have no problems with downtube shifters, I've been using them for 60 years! Once you get use to them, which doesn't take long, they work beautifully. I used to race in the mountains with downtube friction shifters, as did everyone else back then.

Downtube shifters are a lot like a manual transmission in a car, today people don't like those either, yet we all knew how back in the day to use those, it was no big deal.

I haven't been tempted to try bar-end shifters,
or aerobars on any of my bikes (singles)...

.... was tempted into buying electronic shifting.
DT, Ergo, electronic = they each work.
Friction shifting with good housing&cable has been the most reliable (over the years) with zero maintenance.

I have bar end shifters on my 2023 touring bike. Originally the Microshift levers were set to index, but it kept ghost shifting, after much screwing around to prevent it, I ended up changing the setting on the shifters to friction, now the ghost shifting has all but stopped.

Bar end shifters are used on most touring bikes, why you ask?

Simplicity, they have very few moving parts, and that leads to them being less prone to failure vs briftors. Plus, if something goes wrong, they are easier to diagnose and repair on the road with just basic tools which is convenient when you're miles from a bike shop.

Friction mode that I switched mine to makes the system even more field serviceable because we don't have to rely on perfect cable tension, and if a derailleur fails any derailleur a bike shop would have would be compatible with friction.

Bar end shifters are also more resistant to crash damage because they sit outside the damage zone, plus they're cheaper to replace if by chance you do break one.

People that tour want proven reliability over technology, touring cyclists value durability, comfort, and ease of maintenance, bar‑end shifters align with this philosophy better than modern electronic or integrated systems.

That's why most people who tour use bar end shifters.

I didn't ask.

edit: No explanation needed for aerobars.

You gotta like those guys. Boy have they come in handy over the years. It’s been a while but I’m glad they’re still around

Ya'll are reminding me of the one time I had a Shimano 600 component fail. Downtube shifter. Couldn't believe it disintegrated when I disassembled it. Pretty sure I had replacement components for everything on that bike until I had to crash it


​​​​​​​I do remember. Hammering uphill and subtly shifting front and rear derailleurs simultaneously with one hand when the grade gets steep

Didn’t give it a second thought at the time, other than it was an elegant move and it felt like it

I thought they went out of business years ago. Weren’t they associated with another bicycle parts business call The Third Hand?

Dan

Yeah I checked and they're not still around after all. Looks like they've been gone for a decade or so

A 2002 Ridemonkey forum thread includes multiple posters confirming that Loose Screws and Third Hand were run by the same people. One user notes that both businesses were located in the same town. They also talked about a combined catalog titled “The Third Hand/Loose Screws Catalog – Vintage Bicycle Tools & Parts 1999–2000,” which further supports the connection between the two.

Loose Screws started to go out of business in 2012 and went out completely in 2014; Third Hand went out of business between 2000 to 2003.

Just me but one bike experience with electronic reliability was not good and with the arrival of arthritis in my hands and back bar ends have been very helpful and +25 miles aero bars as well.

And I don't care.

Last Fall I was out riding my '84 Schwinn Peloton with DT indexed DuraAce, met up with a younger guy on a Cannondale with all the disk brakes & such. He complimented me on my bike, I hung on his wheel for a couple of miles until we got to a stop light and split off. 40+ yr old bike with 60+ yr old rider couldn't really keep up with 40 yr old rider on a new bike for any length of time

Hills and more gears, brifter bikes are faster, but for me, it's 0.1-0.2 mph, and on any given day I might actually be faster on my old bike- but I have to work harder at it. I have a flatter route for my vintage rides, and for hillier, faster, or longer rides, it's my modern steel with 10 spd Ultegra, carbon wheels, etc.

I’m bike era and equipment agnostic I guess.

I have a modern plastic Bianchi Infinito with electronic shifting. No issues in over 7k miles. And no maintenance other than chains and one front derailleur readjustment. I get months of shifting out of a full charge. I love this bike. It is my go to for long fast rides, especially if hills are involved. I did break down and install a 28t cassette. My knees aren’t what they used to be.

I also have a vintage steel PX10 (1972?) with bar ends. Currently running period correct components other than a nine speed cassette on modern wheels. I’ve ridden bar ends for years. Every once in a while I’ll bump the right shifter when climbing out of the saddle. That’s when I know I’m tired. The vintage handlebars are super narrow and every ride takes me a few minutes to get used to that. I don’t think I’m any slower on this bike than the Bianchi - in most terrain. This one also has a 28t cassette but the small ring is a 42 so hills are a little slower.

Recently rejuvenated an early ‘80s Dawes Atlantis. All original components other than a new chain and replacement freewheel. (You guessed it, 28t!) Friction only down tube shifters. I sometimes forget I can shift both front and rear with one hand, but other than that I have no issues with the shifters. Another one with a 42t small ring so there are certain hills I avoid when riding it.

My commuter is a ‘05 Cannondale T800 with mechanical brifters. I’ve ridden it on longer rides and it is definitely slower than the others. No surprise there. It’s heavier and rolls on wide tires.

I’m happy as long as I’m riding.