Brompton 3-speed hub question
#1
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From: Arizona
Bikes: Brompton and Dahon Curve D3
Brompton 3-speed hub question
Up until now the Brompton has run flawlessly. Out on my ride yesterday I noticed some chattering (best I can describe it) noise coming from the rear 3-speed hub as I was slowing down for a traffic light. I stopped short of the light to visually look and see if there was any noticeable problem. I started pedaling again and the chattering, or whatever, was still there. I was in mid gear at the time. I flipped through the gears on the hub (not the 2-speed derailleur) and all was fine when I pedaled away from the light. Any ideas as to what that was or caused it? I examined the bike, and the adjustment for the hub is bang on. Once in awhile I have noticed an occasional odd/different sound while coasting in mid gear. At least it's still under warrantee in the event there is a problem with the hub.
Thanks
Wayne
Thanks
Wayne
#2
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Bikes: Brompton, Dahon Vitesse D5
I've had nightmares with SA hubs and rattling, but I think that the newer types should be less prone to it than the old AWs.
I'm guessing that if you hold the bike steady and try to rock the rear wheel you'll detect a small amount of play in the bearings (you have to make sure any movement detected is coming from the wheel and not the rear frame hinge). As grease migrates from certain areas and the bearing races wear fractionally the internals are given enough space to move slightly, and riding over rough ground results in rattling. Readjusting the left hand (non-drive) cone so as to dial out the play ought to get rid of it.
I'm guessing that if you hold the bike steady and try to rock the rear wheel you'll detect a small amount of play in the bearings (you have to make sure any movement detected is coming from the wheel and not the rear frame hinge). As grease migrates from certain areas and the bearing races wear fractionally the internals are given enough space to move slightly, and riding over rough ground results in rattling. Readjusting the left hand (non-drive) cone so as to dial out the play ought to get rid of it.
#4
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
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Only had AW3. and now BSR hubs .. maybe cable break in and its out of synch with the shift lever.
check the 2nd gear indicator window, adjustment procedure .
&or, just saying that ... CC all that and email the company, Brompton,
they are very good at replying to customers.
the BWR hub is made just for them .
check the 2nd gear indicator window, adjustment procedure .
&or, just saying that ... CC all that and email the company, Brompton,
they are very good at replying to customers.
the BWR hub is made just for them .
Last edited by fietsbob; 03-14-14 at 12:28 PM.
#5
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Arizona
Bikes: Brompton and Dahon Curve D3
I've had nightmares with SA hubs and rattling, but I think that the newer types should be less prone to it than the old AWs.
I'm guessing that if you hold the bike steady and try to rock the rear wheel you'll detect a small amount of play in the bearings (you have to make sure any movement detected is coming from the wheel and not the rear frame hinge). As grease migrates from certain areas and the bearing races wear fractionally the internals are given enough space to move slightly, and riding over rough ground results in rattling. Readjusting the left hand (non-drive) cone so as to dial out the play ought to get rid of it.
I'm guessing that if you hold the bike steady and try to rock the rear wheel you'll detect a small amount of play in the bearings (you have to make sure any movement detected is coming from the wheel and not the rear frame hinge). As grease migrates from certain areas and the bearing races wear fractionally the internals are given enough space to move slightly, and riding over rough ground results in rattling. Readjusting the left hand (non-drive) cone so as to dial out the play ought to get rid of it.
#6
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 806
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From: Arizona
Bikes: Brompton and Dahon Curve D3
Only had AW3. and now BSR hubs .. maybe cable break in and its out of synch with the shift lever.
check the 2nd gear indicator window, adjustment procedure .
&or, just saying that ... CC all that and email the company, Brompton,
they are very good at replying to customers.
the BWR hub is made just for them .
check the 2nd gear indicator window, adjustment procedure .
&or, just saying that ... CC all that and email the company, Brompton,
they are very good at replying to customers.
the BWR hub is made just for them .
Last edited by Still Pedaling; 03-14-14 at 02:13 PM.
#7
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Whenever I've serviced a SA hub within a few months the cones have needed readjusting, I take it as a matter of course. Usually the rattle starts when coasting over rough ground but not under pedal load, then eventually it happens whether pedalling or not as things loosen further.
#8
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
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Due to the way the washers are folded over there is a quarter turn of adjustment.
nothing less.
but the folded edges of the washers also prevents it from that adjustment changing.
It's pretty locked in place.
Ive pulled the right side cones to pack the bearings with waterproof grease,
It also acts to retain the lighter oil , such as Phil tenacious , from seeping out
a the same time, in sequence. as I did the Left.
nothing less.
but the folded edges of the washers also prevents it from that adjustment changing.
It's pretty locked in place.
Ive pulled the right side cones to pack the bearings with waterproof grease,
It also acts to retain the lighter oil , such as Phil tenacious , from seeping out
a the same time, in sequence. as I did the Left.
Last edited by fietsbob; 03-14-14 at 08:55 PM.
#9
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From: Arizona
Bikes: Brompton and Dahon Curve D3
Whenever I've serviced a SA hub within a few months the cones have needed readjusting, I take it as a matter of course. Usually the rattle starts when coasting over rough ground but not under pedal load, then eventually it happens whether pedalling or not as things loosen further.
#10
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I've heard different schools thought when it comes to hub cone adjustment in general and nothing specific to SA hubs. The general advice is to aim for the sweet spot between eliminating play and avoiding binding, and it depends on the quality of manufacturing as to exactly where that lies. I've often been dissatisfied with the efficiency of SA hubs so I've intentionally adjusted for a tiny amount of play, but generally this results in the internals rattling once grease has migrated/settled, so now I dial out all play with as much care as possible to avoid over-tightening, which creates significant drag. It's a delicate procedure and one I'd prefer not to leave to a dissinterested or distracted shop mechanic.
Of course, your issue might be something else, but in my experience this is a common cause of SA noise. Another diagnostic test is to see if it increases when running higher tyre pressures.
It may also be the case that the factory grease lubrication was innadequate, but that's probably something to worry about further down the line.
Of course, your issue might be something else, but in my experience this is a common cause of SA noise. Another diagnostic test is to see if it increases when running higher tyre pressures.
It may also be the case that the factory grease lubrication was innadequate, but that's probably something to worry about further down the line.
#11
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The fact that you noticed it whilst slowing (i.e. not pedalling) and it seemed to disappear when accelerating is in accord with the problem I'm describing. Pump the tyres really hard and coast over rough ground.
#12
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From: Arizona
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Cheers
Wayne





