Chalk this one to ignorance
#26
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Minas Ithil
I measure with my calipers. You don't know that 42"c" means 42 millimeters? Look up the history of bike tire sizing and you'll learn why they put a C on it.
#27
Vertical dropouts are designed to have the axle tight against the dropout.
Older vintage steel bikes with horizontal dropouts can be adjusted that way, but not the new vertical ones.
As far as tires, it is perfectly fine to mix tire sizes. 28mm in front, and 25mm in the rear. There is also debate on whether the larger tire should be in front or back. The larger front tire will give you more shock absorbing for the hands on your bars, and be the first to impact obstacles. On the other hand, the rear carries more weight.
#28
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Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Bay Area, Calif.
The 'c' is appropriate when referring to the size of a rim; i.e. 700a vs. 700b vs. 700c vs. 700d (only the 700c is in common use anymore). But when you say you measured the tire width as 42c it's pretty meaningless - the measurement of the the width would be in mm, so why not say that you measured it as 42mm?
#29
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Joined: Jan 2013
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NO
Vertical dropouts are designed to have the axle tight against the dropout.
Older vintage steel bikes with horizontal dropouts can be adjusted that way, but not the new vertical ones.
As far as tires, it is perfectly fine to mix tire sizes. 28mm in front, and 25mm in the rear. There is also debate on whether the larger tire should be in front or back. The larger front tire will give you more shock absorbing for the hands on your bars, and be the first to impact obstacles. On the other hand, the rear carries more weight.
Vertical dropouts are designed to have the axle tight against the dropout.
Older vintage steel bikes with horizontal dropouts can be adjusted that way, but not the new vertical ones.
As far as tires, it is perfectly fine to mix tire sizes. 28mm in front, and 25mm in the rear. There is also debate on whether the larger tire should be in front or back. The larger front tire will give you more shock absorbing for the hands on your bars, and be the first to impact obstacles. On the other hand, the rear carries more weight.
#30
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 9,176
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From: Minas Ithil
I do sometimes. I assumed everyone knows when someone says "42c", which is what is stamped on the tire, they know the number stands for the width in millimeters. I assumed wrong.
#31
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#32
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#33
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Joined: May 2011
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From: Adirondacks
Bikes: 2018 Diverge Comp, 2016 Specialized SL4 Comp,
I have the opposite problem, 28's slightly too large in the front but fine in the rear. I love the ride that 28's give so I lower the air pressure enough so they work. What pressure are you riding, how big are you? For me 70-75 psi in the rear is plenty and I'm 190 lbs, you can go less if you're lighter.
#34
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I have the opposite problem, 28's slightly too large in the front but fine in the rear. I love the ride that 28's give so I lower the air pressure enough so they work. What pressure are you riding, how big are you? For me 70-75 psi in the rear is plenty and I'm 190 lbs, you can go less if you're lighter.
#36
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Joined: May 2011
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From: Adirondacks
Bikes: 2018 Diverge Comp, 2016 Specialized SL4 Comp,
Check this out . A poster here turned me on to this and in my experience he's right. At 150 lbs., you can go a lot lower if you choose to. Worth a try before you sell the tires. Read it and do the approximate 60% rear and 40% front for weight and you'd likely be ok at 70 psi. If you, like most of us, do not ride on fresh blacktop and have to deal with some rougher roads then lower pressures can be faster and more comfortable.
https://www.adventurecycling.org/def...SIRX_Heine.pdf
https://www.adventurecycling.org/def...SIRX_Heine.pdf
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