I have a Gary Fisher Nirvana that came with a Rock Shox Metro suspension fork. The fork cannot be locked out. Since I ride on paved roads 90% of the time, I'm considering replacing it with a rigid steel fork. Will I notice the weight savings and increased efficiency? I'm not concerned with speed and I'm content commuting at 15 mph, but I often feel like the suspension fork is creating extra work and effort both on flats and hills.

If anyone has changed suspension for rigid forks, I'd appreciate your input.

I've done it myself, it's a worth while mod. You will notice the difference, it'll make the bike physically lighter and feel lighter in the steering but not twitchy with the same axle to crown length.
You could make it steer faster and make it feel a little more twitchy by getting a shorter length fork by 20 or 30mm and that's not a bad thing you would notice the bike turning into corners with more ease without the bike feeling it wants to run wide or you having to force the bike to turn tight. This is more noticeable the faster you ride.

Here's an example. My bike was designed for a 445mm suspension fork and 26inch wheels. I used a 410mm rigid fork, because this lowers the bottom bracket height I used 29er wheels to bring it back up again.
It was all planed this way from the start of the build.

note that you can only get away with what he did if you have the right sort of frame.

lowering the head tube also lowers the bottom bracket, which means your pedals are more likely to scrape on turns.


frankly, I'd probably be looking for a bike more suitable for your road riding, and plan on selling your bouncy-fork comfort hybrid.

Pierce, Your point is well taken. However, I do have other bikes that I use for recreatoin, group rides, etc. The hybrid is for commuting and perhaps some touring. Just trying to decide if simply changing the fork can save the cost of a new bike.

I got a Fuji monterey 3.0 comfort bike for $100.00, that had a "terrible" feeling 50mm suspension fork so I had my LBS find me a nice ridged cro-moly fork and had it switched. The bike turned from a "bongy-bongy" PIA to very quick handling sweet commuter/utility machine. To be honest I WISH I'd never sold it, so it can be done.

they do sell conversion forks that have taller crowns for replacing suspension forks. they look a little wonky on a bike because they are extra long, but the frame of a suspended bike is designed for a higher than normal headset, so....

these are good if it fits your application.
https://www.jensonusa.com/Bicycle-Rigid-Forks/Surly-1X1-Fork
https://www.jensonusa.com/Bicycle-Rig...te-Monkey-Fork

I've been thinking about putting one on my trek 4300 plus my comfort bike too.


Steel: https://shop.titusti.com/product-p/fooocr26.htm
Carbon: https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...00_-1___202347
And a few on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...at=0&_from=R40

Some things people should be aware of is forks less than 410mm axle to crown length are for 24 and 20 inch wheels, using them with 26 and 700c wheels will result in pedal strike with the ground in moderate cornering angles. It'll also make an extreme nose down riding position or a long goofy looking stem if you cant ride like that.
Another thing to be aware of is using a alloy fork on a alloy frame will have a harsh bone shaking ride, carbon is better and steel with a steel frame. 440 to 460mm axle to crown is a good happy medium but measure your original fork and go from there.

the rough ride from alloy forks mostly applies to skinny tire bikes... when you get into 35c and most anything on 26", the tire is providing more "suspension" than the fork is.

if you're measuring a suspension fork, figure you can probably take about 50% of the suspension travel off the overall length and still be OK

yeah,the rough ride from alloy forks mostly applies to skinny tire bikes... when you get it.thank you

I switched my aluminum KHS from 2.1" knobbies and Rock Shox Indy XC fork to 1.5" street tires and chromo fork with identical axle-to-crown length. I want to convert to 700c/29er with disc brake one of these days since the fork has the tabs for it. I used the Nashbar rigid MTB fork that goes for $50, but it's almost always back ordered. It was back ordered when I placed the order, but didn't take too long for it to become available. But as soon as it came in I looked and it was back ordered again. Must be popular.

what will you do about the back wheel with 700c ? doesn't look like your frame has rear disc brake mounts, and the canti/vbrake mounting posts will be too low to reach the taller rim, assuming it fits between the stay bridges...

Have already measured everything, will probably use a caliper brake on the rear, mounted to the existing hole in the bridge between the seat stays.