Nice! Don't get to see a lot of Knollys here. Looks like a great enduro weapon. That a 36 or a 38t you're running up front?

it's a 36, but I'm trading it out for a 34........I'm just not that strong on the climbs, and I don't pedal that much on the downs..............Debating whether I need a bash ..... been reading good things about the Narrow/Wide keeping the chain on........I ride DH sometimes too and I'll have this up at NorthStar in a week or so..........we'll see how it does........

Lots of worthwhile real-world experience so far with the Narrow/Wide HERE - - but don't tell anyone I told you to go there .

Sweet Knolly.

Even if you go with a bash, you'll still need something to prevent chain drop on the inside. I've been running the N/W rings for a month now and haven't dropped a chain. Previously running a standard SS chainring(before the N/W arrived) and dropped the chain 1-2 times a ride. Before that, I ran full chainguide w/bashguard.

The N/W setup is so clean, but I think it's only a matter of time before I bend it. I tend to bash into things, so I probably should be running a bashguard just for added protection(not to keep the chain on though).

well with the clutch SLX in the rear I'm understanding I won't need anything for "drops" ..........but we'll see

I ran a clutch XT with my Salsa SS ring -- still dropped with that setup...YMMV

So long as your setup is good, no. Anecdotal intertubes evidence suggests drops are rare with the narrow/wide rings, but that they can happen.
For retention, sure, the rings are all working great when everything is new. But what about when everything gets a bit worn? Not enough to need replacement, but loose enough to allow chaindrop?
These are spendy chainrings - I don't want to destroy it and have to buy a new one, and don't want to destroy it and have to end a ride because if doing so.

I've got them on two bikes now, both still running variants of the MRP AM-Guide. Gives me bash protection, and upper retention - paired with the clutch rear mechs, everything has been peachy so far.
They add minimal weight, and with only an upper guide bit they don't add any friction to the system. Win-win.

I'm almost thinking about taking the wheel off my MRP g2 and just running the bash and upper....hmmmm

Dooooo iiiiiiit.

Only downside is the chain can bounce against the far back bit of the lower guide and make a racket. Thus the shortened up versions of the AM-guide.

You can replicate that with a hacksaw or Dremel tool. If you want to go back to the roller, you can pick up a new lower g2 guide bit for way less money than buying a new complete guide of either kind.

One of the "AM-Guides" on one of my bikes is a Micro Guide (smaller version of the G2 Mini) just like that - back part of the lower guide hacked off. Works beautifully.

[IMG][/IMG]
Gary Frankenbike, the only cool thing is the Paul MotoX brakes. And a bright purple chainring. Brand new singletrack behind my house.

Was just gonna put the knobbys back on the Sawyer but just decided to get some Fat!

My Japanese frame Precision Vitesse with 29r smallblock 8s

rode some pretty rough stuff over the weekend without a guide, just clutch and narrow wide..............no drops at all!!! I'm sold on this!! Hitting jumps, rock gardens, etc and had zero problems!

Here is my ride....2001 Gary Fisher Sugar 1. I've done a ton of work to this bike....custom powder coated frame, 3T carbon cockpit, XO Shifters, derailleur, cassette. Carbon World Cup Fork, Pushed Fox RP3, Crossmax Rims....right at about 22 lbs, I love the way it rides.

went for a bit of a ride today....
The tires are kenda small block 8 29r

saved by this guy

I would ditch the SB8 right now if you're going to ride mud like that ever again. It is completely useless in the mud.

I don't know what brands and models of tires you have access to, but I'd be looking for a Geax Barro if you do a combination of mud and street.

^^ Mud like that just screams WetScreams

that mud looks like everything I can see outside right now. This rain is silly.

I know right...I am in Denver and am getting sea sick just looking out side.

Most of the time I ride packed dirt roads that get wet and have a bit of a mud cover and the sb8s are great but I did not plan on this mess.

I doubt most of you could ride that trail even on wet screams; sink holes of mud, cow foot prints that were 6 to 10 inches deep and just general moguls of mud. even 29s could not span the dips and got stuck.

Forgot to share pictures of the new bike. I think.
Edict Nine 60















Here I am on some singletrack switchbacks.

My rigid Inbred.

I would certainly agree that there can be mud so severe that a bicycle cannot be ridden through it. I have encountered mud that cannot be ridden through on a dirtbike, so I know it's out there.

However, I've also ridden the Small Block 8. It immediately packs up and does not shed mud, and even on the first revolution through the mud, the small knobs are totally useless.

But you can keep riding them if you like.

Carbon 29er. Old picture. It's been updated with XX1, and the wheels shown below for racing. DT Swiss XRC 950T tubulars with Tufo XC4 tires.

Santa Cruz Blur LT Carbon frame, DT Swiss EXM 150mm fork, carbon rims, AC hubs, 740mm bar. Awaiting my return from AFG.