Cleat position ??
#1
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From: Burbank
Bikes: Fuji roubaix 1.1
Cleat position ??
Where is the supposed neutral position or how do you get it in the neutral position??
Do you guys have them set that way? or what works for you?
Do you guys use the little numbers on the shoes ?
i got two new pairs of specialized road cycling shoes, and on one pair the guy at the shop was able to set them up in a pretty good what he called 'neutral position'
but on the other pair, which i got at a different store, the guy did not get them on right. my right foot felt like it was trying to pop of the pedal so i messed with it myself and now i feel like i got the cleat on an alright spot but i feel it could get it better .
DAMN CLEATS ARE GOING TO DRIVE ME CRAZY NOW
Do you guys have them set that way? or what works for you?
Do you guys use the little numbers on the shoes ?
i got two new pairs of specialized road cycling shoes, and on one pair the guy at the shop was able to set them up in a pretty good what he called 'neutral position'
but on the other pair, which i got at a different store, the guy did not get them on right. my right foot felt like it was trying to pop of the pedal so i messed with it myself and now i feel like i got the cleat on an alright spot but i feel it could get it better .
DAMN CLEATS ARE GOING TO DRIVE ME CRAZY NOW
#3
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From: Burbank
Bikes: Fuji roubaix 1.1
#4
Surf Bum
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Pacifica, CA
Bikes: Lapierre Pulsium 500 FdJ, Ritchey breakaway cyclocross, vintage trek mtb.
Ball of foot (at big toe) over pedal spindle. Cleats angled so foot when clipped in is at similar angle to how your foot naturally hangs. Sit on a table or something and look at your feet - most people are heels in a bit. My right foot is really heels in and if i put it too straight on the pedal, I get pain on outside of knee, so i angle that cleat quite a bit now.
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#6
On Your Left
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#7
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From: Oahu, HI
Bikes: 89 Paramount OS 84 Fuji Touring Series III New! 2013 Focus Izalco Ergoride
I've been experimenting with the "Hogg" positioning, though I can't really tell that it makes a big difference for me. But I also changed shoes at the same time so not a very controlled experiment I know.
scott s.
.
scott s.
.
#10
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From: take your time, enjoy the scenery, it will be there when you get to it
Bikes: 07 IRO BFGB fixed-gear, 07 Pedal Force RS
i got two new pairs of specialized road cycling shoes, and on one pair the guy at the shop was able to set them up in a pretty good what he called 'neutral position'
but on the other pair, which i got at a different store, the guy did not get them on right. my right foot felt like it was trying to pop of the pedal so i messed with it myself and now i feel like i got the cleat on an alright spot but i feel it could get it better .
but on the other pair, which i got at a different store, the guy did not get them on right. my right foot felt like it was trying to pop of the pedal so i messed with it myself and now i feel like i got the cleat on an alright spot but i feel it could get it better .
#12
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From: Portland, OR
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
Lots of good reasons for more than one pair. For different bikes and pedal/cleat systems. So you can have summer and cooler weather shoes that are a size large for more socks and warmth. Good shoes and older beater shoes for rain or if I am going to have to wear them off the bike. (I have three different systems on 5 bikes, slotted cleats fo FGs, Deltas for the road and SPDs for gravel. I ride all three types in cold weather as well as warm.
Do you have just one pair of dress shoes? Does your cycling rate as important in your life? It does in mine.
Ben
Do you have just one pair of dress shoes? Does your cycling rate as important in your life? It does in mine.
Ben
#13
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From: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
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Same reason we need at least 2 bikes. More is better.
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#14
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From: Portland, OR
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
That's what I wold do. I'd put the good pair on the pedals and document where the ball of my foot was relative to the pedal spindle, how close it was to the crank, then how far off my heel was from the crank and duplicate that with the other pair.
Ben
Ben
#15
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From: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
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Same here. I take a wrench with me on the first few rides and stop to make little adjustments as I go.
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#16
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From: Los Angeles
Bikes: 2021 Rock Lobster Steel "All-Road" // 1989 Eddy Merckx Century TSX "Team Motorola" // 1995 Eddy Merckx Arcobaleno
I just had my bike fully fitted. Boy were my cleats way off. It actually felt a lot better in my knees and shins with them properly adjusted. He had to watch me on the trainer and adjusted the cleats at least 3 times before they were correct. Both of my feet are definitely not the same.
I would say that a professional fitting is worth it, not just for the cleats, but the whole bike. It's much different than the salesman/tech/whatever eyeballing it when you buy them.
Though, you might be able to find the right spot(s) on your own, as I'm sure many people do. For me though, what I thought was right, definitely wasn't.
I would say that a professional fitting is worth it, not just for the cleats, but the whole bike. It's much different than the salesman/tech/whatever eyeballing it when you buy them.
Though, you might be able to find the right spot(s) on your own, as I'm sure many people do. For me though, what I thought was right, definitely wasn't.
#18
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From: Burbank
Bikes: Fuji roubaix 1.1
#19
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From: Burbank
Bikes: Fuji roubaix 1.1
yeah i've thought about a bike fit but i've never had problems with the way my bike is set up other than the cleat positions but even then not really, i just ordered a cleat positioning tool which i'm sure will help tons.
#20
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From: Burbank
Bikes: Fuji roubaix 1.1
I just had my bike fully fitted. Boy were my cleats way off. It actually felt a lot better in my knees and shins with them properly adjusted. He had to watch me on the trainer and adjusted the cleats at least 3 times before they were correct. Both of my feet are definitely not the same.
I would say that a professional fitting is worth it, not just for the cleats, but the whole bike. It's much different than the salesman/tech/whatever eyeballing it when you buy them.
Though, you might be able to find the right spot(s) on your own, as I'm sure many people do. For me though, what I thought was right, definitely wasn't.
I would say that a professional fitting is worth it, not just for the cleats, but the whole bike. It's much different than the salesman/tech/whatever eyeballing it when you buy them.
Though, you might be able to find the right spot(s) on your own, as I'm sure many people do. For me though, what I thought was right, definitely wasn't.
#21
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Joined: Mar 2015
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From: Los Angeles
Bikes: 2021 Rock Lobster Steel "All-Road" // 1989 Eddy Merckx Century TSX "Team Motorola" // 1995 Eddy Merckx Arcobaleno
yeah i get you , but i've never really had any pains in my legs or feet other than normal soreness from riding hard i think i ve set my bike myself pretty well or at least my legs seem to be happy , i would get a bike fit if i had knee pains or legs pains that i couldn't pin point but i've never felt any. i just ordered a cleat positioning tool that i feel will help a lot in finding a better cleat position from ergon.
#22
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From: Everett, WA
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My wife and I rode for many years with our cleats in the standard position as shown in previous posts. My wife started getting cramps in her feet and calves for some unknown reason last year, so I moved her cleats all the way back. End of problem. I've never had a problem with mine, never hot foot even on extremely long rides. So put 'em as above unless you have a problem, then problem solve.
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