Quill stem or Threadless adapter
#4
I have used an adapter and was very pleased with it. You will have to buy a threadless stem though. I used an adjustable threadless stem for maximum adjustability.
A quill would be cheaper though. An ebay adapter and stem will run you at least $30.
A quill would be cheaper though. An ebay adapter and stem will run you at least $30.
#5
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Bikes: 1986 Alpine (steel road bike), 2009 Ti Habenero, 2013 Specialized Roubaix
#6
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There are a couple quill stems out there with a 31.8 clamp, but they're not cheap and many think they're not pretty. In my experience, threadless adapter can wind up being heavier than a quill setup (note - this is unreliable anecdotal evidence because I don't weigh anything), but I guess that depends on what stems you use.
#7
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From: Seattle
From a structural point of view, adapters are the worst of both worlds: you still have to have the wedge expander and a bunch of tubing overlap within the steerer, and you need to have the connection between stem and adapter up above the headset.
I suppose it's theoretically possible that advancements in manufacturing could allow the sum to weigh less than available classic-style quill stems; but in terms of the basic configuration choices, the adapter setup should be heavier than classic quill.
But, I also don't have data for comparison.
#8
I use a threadless adapter on my road bike. While it is heavier (like I really give a damn) it is a little ugly. But ultimately it is much more convenient than using a normal quill stem if you intend on swapping your stem occasionally. I like to swap my stem for a taller one when I do all day rides with my buddies, and this would be extremely inconvenient with a quill stem.
Depending on how much you want to raise your handle bar height, a high rise threadless stem may work just as well. In that case the threadless stem will have less flex.
Depending on how much you want to raise your handle bar height, a high rise threadless stem may work just as well. In that case the threadless stem will have less flex.
#11
Nitto makes a stem that looks pretty tall.
NEW Nitto Technomic Road 1 Quill Stem 80mm 72 Degree 225mm Quill 26.0 Bar Clamp | eBay
#12
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From: Upstate South Carolina
Bikes: 1980's Spectrum 10 sp Campagnolo Centaur, 1990 Eddy Merckx 10 sp Campagnolo Centaur, Bushnell Tandem, Co-Motion Speedster Tandem
I switched over to an adapter and threadless stem last year on my Merckx and like it. I was able to go with a wider bare and get the bars up a little higher for my 62 year old body. I like the looks of this stem though it does require the smaller dia. bars. VO Quill Stem - Quill Stems - Stems - Components
#13
I did this on an old Trek 2500, went from a quill to an adapter and 31.7 bars. It was heavy but it allowed me to play around with stem length and angle by trying multiple stems, and I was much happier with the compact drop bars versus the traditional bars the bike had initially.
#17
OP, have you tried other solutions besides bringing the bars up/closer? Are you moving your hands around on the bars regularly? Are your elbows locked straight out in front of you while riding? What type of bar tape and gloves are you using (if any)? Are you doing any core strengthening work in addition to riding?
Before going through the expense of a new stem and/or adapter + bar combo, you might find that there are other solutions that will work for you to prevent hand numbness.
#18
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What kind of bike do you have? If it's a classic steel bike, I would encourage you to find a taller quill stem for aesthetic reasons as well as practical. A Nitto Deluxe or Technomic stem will raise your handlebar higher and are available in various reaches, and they are excellent quality. You also would not have to replace your headset, handlebar or bar tape.
#19
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^ ^ This.
OP, have you tried other solutions besides bringing the bars up/closer? Are you moving your hands around on the bars regularly? Are your elbows locked straight out in front of you while riding? What type of bar tape and gloves are you using (if any)? Are you doing any core strengthening work in addition to riding?
Before going through the expense of a new stem and/or adapter + bar combo, you might find that there are other solutions that will work for you to prevent hand numbness.
OP, have you tried other solutions besides bringing the bars up/closer? Are you moving your hands around on the bars regularly? Are your elbows locked straight out in front of you while riding? What type of bar tape and gloves are you using (if any)? Are you doing any core strengthening work in addition to riding?
Before going through the expense of a new stem and/or adapter + bar combo, you might find that there are other solutions that will work for you to prevent hand numbness.
Bar tape is lizard skin dsp but it is in dire need of replacement.
I was playing with seat and bar adjustment on the trainer and that's when I had the idea of bringing the bars up around an inch. At that height I was able to read rest my hands on the bars and let my trunk hold my upper body over the bike instead of my arms.
#20
Yes. I do move my hands quite a bit. Unfortunately I do lock my elbows after a short while. I don't believe it has so much to do with reach as it does with core training like you said.
Bar tape is lizard skin dsp but it is in dire need of replacement.
I was playing with seat and bar adjustment on the trainer and that's when I had the idea of bringing the bars up around an inch. At that height I was able to read rest my hands on the bars and let my trunk hold my upper body over the bike instead of my arms.
Bar tape is lizard skin dsp but it is in dire need of replacement.
I was playing with seat and bar adjustment on the trainer and that's when I had the idea of bringing the bars up around an inch. At that height I was able to read rest my hands on the bars and let my trunk hold my upper body over the bike instead of my arms.
#21
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From: San Diego, California
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I'd stay with the quill stem. You can get taller and/or shorter reach quill stems. Here are some:
https://www.rivbike.com/collections/stems
Here's an inexpensive one that might do the job:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Q3SY2Y?psc=1
https://www.rivbike.com/collections/stems
Here's an inexpensive one that might do the job:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Q3SY2Y?psc=1
Last edited by tyrion; 01-13-17 at 01:34 PM.
#22
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i'd stay with the quill stem. You can get taller and/or shorter reach quill stems. Here are some:
https://www.rivbike.com/collections/stems
here's an inexpensive one that might do the job:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/b003q3sy2y?psc=1
https://www.rivbike.com/collections/stems
here's an inexpensive one that might do the job:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/b003q3sy2y?psc=1
+1 ^
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Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
#24
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Try a shorter (length, not height) quill stem with a bit of upward angle?
it sounds like your bike is set up with more reach than your body can handle. A longitudinally shorter stem is the simplest cheap[est solution ... and the old stem can go back in when/if you are able to ride a little lower.
it sounds like your bike is set up with more reach than your body can handle. A longitudinally shorter stem is the simplest cheap[est solution ... and the old stem can go back in when/if you are able to ride a little lower.
#25
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You can always try a seatpost without set back if the reach is a problem. That brings the saddle closer to the bars by about 1/2 inch.
I have found one for as a low as $20 at a local shop that had one laying around after being swapped out on a a new bike purchase.
The difference between set back and zero setback
I have found one for as a low as $20 at a local shop that had one laying around after being swapped out on a a new bike purchase.
The difference between set back and zero setback
Last edited by ClydeTim; 01-13-17 at 03:54 PM.




