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Originally Posted by wattsy_rules
How do I make my 9 speed cluster ift onto a 10 speed hub? I'm assuming I put a spacer ring on the inside of the hub near the spokes. Is it as simple as this or do I need to get the hack saw out and start cutting stuff?
Forza Italia !! |
Originally Posted by climbo
use Campagnolo :)
Forza Italia !! |
Originally Posted by wattsy_rules
How do I make my 9 speed cluster ift onto a 10 speed hub? I'm assuming I put a spacer ring on the inside of the hub near the spokes. Is it as simple as this or do I need to get the hack saw out and start cutting stuff?
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I hope Thylo's not working up a quote based on that diagram :eek:
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Originally Posted by jock
Now doesn't that just look like a caged cat? Nervous as hell too. Just like you described.
Those angles are messing with my mind. Tell me again how you sprint on a friggin lounge chair? 605 top? WTF? I'm shorter. Think Robbie sized midget (only fatter) 605mm top tube? Of course! I'm 6ft 3ins (193cm), Jock. Most stock bikes in my size are 72-73 degree STA, so to get in the right position on them I'd need a setback post, but they're sucky. I can get pretty much exactly the same position on a bike with a 585 top tube and a 72.4 degree seat angle. So.... A) 585 top tube, 72.4 STA, 130mm stem, setback post B) 595 top tube, 71.5 STA, 130mm stem, straight post C) 605 top tube, 71.5 STA, 120mm stem, straight post All three of the above bikes are exactly the same. My butt, hands and pedals are in exactly the same pozzie. That's why you can't just look at one number and assume how a bike will ride and handle, because it's all totally meaningless unless you look at the big picture. Thankfully there's idiots like me to do that. |
Originally Posted by Thylacine
Quick change of topic. After watching Magnus Backstedt ride this year, I think my aversion to traditional road bikes in my size may be waning.
What's your preference? Option A or Option B? 7 degree slope vs 2 degree. |
Originally Posted by HDTVKSS
Is that a car with Mrs BBW behind the wheel?
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Does anyone know if the bike show will be on at homebush again this year?
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Originally Posted by climbo
Forza Italia !!
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Originally Posted by HDTVKSS
Does anyone know if the bike show will be on at homebush again this year?
Maybe there should a group excursion of Sydney-based BFers. :eek: :D |
well that doesnt help me! had to leave the last one a bit earlier than expected after some knuckle dragger decided Mrs HDT was a nice piece of ass (well, ill admit it, she is!) and decided to follow her around doing the not so inconspicuous perve making her quite uncomfortable.... oh well, next year!
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HDT, that's an anecdote I wouldn't have expected to hear about a bike show...bummer.
Of course if Mrs HDT was made of carbon fibre then it would make more sense! :D |
Originally Posted by Thylacine
A) 585 top tube, 72.4 STA, 130mm stem, setback post
B) 595 top tube, 71.5 STA, 130mm stem, straight post C) 605 top tube, 71.5 STA, 120mm stem, straight post All three of the above bikes are exactly the same. My butt, hands and pedals are in exactly the same pozzie. I'm enjoying todays lesson. Your weight distribution over the axles would be different though, wouldn't it? And therefore handling? Hang on, I've still got a torch and a hacksaw. Want me to bang up some fancy triangles for ya?:) |
Yeah, weight distribution between the wheels would be a tad different.
Some call it an excuse to get a new bike......others.......R&D! :beer: |
Wattsy, what hub is it?
Freehubs for Shimano 8 & 9 speed will do 10 speed with a spacer added (comes with a 10sp cassette.) 10 speed specific hubs (like the Dura Ace wheels) will only do 10sp as they are too narrow for 9sp. Mavic hubs need a spacer for 8sp & 9sp (comes with the hub) and for 10sp you need the Mavic spacer plus the Shimano spacer. Correct me anyone if I am wrong. |
Originally Posted by 62vette
Wattsy, what hub is it?
Freehubs for Shimano 8 & 9 speed will do 10 speed with a spacer added (comes with a 10sp cassette.) 10 speed specific hubs (like the Dura Ace wheels) will only do 10sp as they are too narrow for 9sp. Mavic hubs need a spacer for 8sp & 9sp (comes with the hub) and for 10sp you need the Mavic spacer plus the Shimano spacer. Correct me anyone if I am wrong. |
Originally Posted by Thylacine
Well, I'd do a 73 HTA with a 43mm rake for you. No reason to go any steeper.
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As long as your contact points are in the same position, that should work. However, if it was me, I'd have the same geometry on both my training bike and my race bike. I don't really see the point in having to adapt each time you switch bikes.
For a Crit bike, I'd maybe raise the BB a tad and recommend a stiffer overall bike with less emphasis on comfort (ie: recommend Al or Sc over Steel or Ti), but that's about it. Actually, I would recommend steel but go for a beefy oversize tube selection and don't give a crap about weight. A sweet steel frame and matching steel forks, and some killer aero wheels like Rolf prima Vigor SL's would make a real nice crit bike. |
Yeah I think I've heard that 10spd hubs don't do 9spd cassettes as well, but could you swap the freehub completely?
On a related issue, I'm running 9speed dura ace wheels on the hack bike, got em cheap secondhand, they're well used but very light wheels and they've always been silent when freewheeling. Just recently they've not been taking up all the time i.e. you might stand on it from a standstill or coasting and get 250rpm of zero load. It's quite exciting:rolleyes: I get the feeling they've had some of the drive pawls removed (for weight?) and the question is do I attempt my first freehub overhaul- clean/lube or assume it's buggered and get a new freehub? |
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Originally Posted by Thylacine
As long as your contact points are in the same position, that should work. However, if it was me, I'd have the same geometry on both my training bike and my race bike. I don't really see the point in having to adapt each time you switch bikes.
For a Crit bike, I'd maybe raise the BB a tad and recommend a stiffer overall bike with less emphasis on comfort (ie: recommend Al or Sc over Steel or Ti), but that's about it. Actually, I would recommend steel but go for a beefy oversize tube selection and don't give a crap about weight. A sweet steel frame and matching steel forks, and some killer aero wheels like Rolf prima Vigor SL's would make a real nice crit bike. As for raising the BB, well I'm in two minds about it. There's nothing like the thrill of dropping blokes off your wheel by clipping at >60kmh. Scares the bejeesus outta them. A bit harsh on the pedal tho. :roflmao: |
Oh, I thought we were talking about your bikes.
Kids are a different proposition, of course. Make em work for it or get them on something cheap and bomber I guess. I hardly expect anyone in that position to pony up the 10-15k you'd need to sink into a specifically designed training/racing quiver. But hey, what do I know about such things? I'm 34 and newly married but still think I'm 25, which comes as a shock when I attempt to keep up with 25 year olds! I can't fund my own cycling habit let alone someone elses. |
Originally Posted by 62vette
Wattsy, what hub is it?
Freehubs for Shimano 8 & 9 speed will do 10 speed with a spacer added (comes with a 10sp cassette.) 10 speed specific hubs (like the Dura Ace wheels) will only do 10sp as they are too narrow for 9sp. Mavic hubs need a spacer for 8sp & 9sp (comes with the hub) and for 10sp you need the Mavic spacer plus the Shimano spacer. Correct me anyone if I am wrong. The wheel had a 10 speed Dura Ace cluster and used a medium and small spacer to keep it tight. |
Originally Posted by jock
As for raising the BB, well I'm in two minds about it. There's nothing like the thrill of dropping blokes off your wheel by clipping at >60kmh. Scares the bejeesus outta them. A bit harsh on the pedal tho. :roflmao:
My fixies got a low BB too. Always an adventure. Anyone just see Malcolm Mclaren on Denton? That was Interesting. |
Originally Posted by Thylacine
Oh, I thought we were talking about your bikes.
wokka made a funny :D |
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