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-   -   The Cult of CAAD... (https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycling/681944-cult-caad.html)

2ndGen 02-20-12 08:31 PM


Originally Posted by NWS Alpine (Post 13877746)
I'm completely new to cycling. I just started commuting bi-modal to work. Now that I am getting great exercise I want to get into road cycling. I have a Trek sawyer that I just picked up as well. Converted it to single speed and some slicks. It's perfect weather year round down here and there are some nice bike routes along the ocean that it would be a shame not to get a proper road bike.

I lived in Miami & Orlando for a while.
It's roadie heaven there for guys who prefer flat land riding.
A road bike will take your fitness to another level for sure.
:)

Pinkbullet3 02-20-12 08:54 PM


Originally Posted by Velo_Tut (Post 13877117)
Can someone explain to me why "slamming the stem" is held on such a pedestal? Sure it offers a more aggressive geometry and looks better, but why is it sooooo popular? Also, if I've been fitted for a 56 CAAD9 with spacers and I slam the stem, in theory, isn't my fit on the bike ruined?

You don't ride for yourself, you ride for others.

Foblander 02-20-12 10:14 PM

Yes I know also like the know the phenomenon with slamming the stem. For the people who claim it feels better slammed, do you ride the hoods mostly or the drops? I will admit it does look good but if it makes it harder to ride in the drops I'll probably hold off on slamming it since I prefer riding in the drops.

I <3 Robots 02-20-12 11:07 PM

Its all about replicating the pro look.

It all comes down to how flexible your body is, road conditions, how long your in the saddle. Alot of people claim that its more comfortable after a 10 second ride...that in reality...after about an hour...your neck is cramped, hands hurt, and your back is sore. You also come to realize how heavy your head really is! You should be able to ride for at least 30 mins in your drops...comfortably. I bet alot of the guys with slammed stems cannot ride for 30 mins in the drops without their neck cramping up...and you can usually tell who those guys are.

Your handle bar should be set at your lowest comfortable point...which is your drops.

milkbaby 02-21-12 01:32 AM

From fitter Steve Hogg: If being more aero makes you slower in real world testing, then there is no point prioritising aero beyond a point . Better to have a position that allows good power output and refine that basic position to be as aero as possible.

At a certain point you will end up sacrificing power by lowering your bars too low. Your hip angle will become too small to generate the power needed to ride faster.

Going faster makes you suffer more; it's not the case that simply suffering makes you faster...

2ndGen 02-21-12 03:40 AM

...or, some people are just more comfortable with a different height than
those who aren't comfortable with lower stem heights on their bikes. :D


Originally Posted by Foblander (Post 13878141)
Yes I know also like the know the phenomenon with slamming the stem. For the people who claim it feels better slammed, do you ride the hoods mostly or the drops? I will admit it does look good but if it makes it harder to ride in the drops I'll probably hold off on slamming it since I prefer riding in the drops.

I ride the hoods most of the times. I don't like riding in the drops personally.
The only times I'll ride the drops will be on descents and to accelerate.

Here's a question:
How many of those who can't ride with slammed stems (or at least, low stem heights)
can physically work in a bent position for 8-10 hours a day with a 10lbs of tools around
their waist in all kinds of weather extremes (weather from the teens to the high 90's)
while swinging a 5lb pneumatic nailer about 4,800 times a shift on an angle?


Like this:

http://www.charlotteroofingcontracto...=1265738763666

Seems unrelated, but it's not really.

I could see how this position might be more difficult to sustain for those who aren't conditioned by hard labor,
but for others it's part of the job and even easier in recreational activities (trust me, a 16lb bike with wheels is
much easier to push than a 100lb stack of shingles up a 40' aluminum ladder). For those who aren't used to
hard work, they have to condition themselves with exercise and with working out to get to that level.
For others, it's another day at work.

When I hear all these rules (and there are a lot of them), I wonder...who do we trust?
The guy who says (A) or the guy who says (B) is right or the guy who insists that (C) is the only way?

That's why "to each his own" is the most appropriate phrase here.
Not everyone who rides a bicycle counts watts or charts their progress.
Not everyone who rides a bicycle races their bike or is on a college team.
And not everyone who rides a bicycle is a dentist or an engineer or a student.
Right? In the immortal words of that late 70's sitcom: It takes different strokes to move the world.

:thumb:


:lol:

NWS Alpine 02-21-12 03:23 PM

More I look at it I really want to get the CAAD10 4 with SRAM Rival with the CAAD10 replica liquigas color frame. Ugh why must I be so picky. I wonder how much it would cost to do the groupset swap from my dealer. Most likely more than it's worth.

I should prob stick to 105 but I like the SRAM levers just from playing around in the shop. Never ridden either one.

2ndGen 02-21-12 04:30 PM


Originally Posted by NWS Alpine (Post 13880571)
More I look at it I really want to get the CAAD10 4 with SRAM Rival with the CAAD10 replica liquigas color frame. Ugh why must I be so picky. I wonder how much it would cost to do the groupset swap from my dealer. Most likely more than it's worth.

I should prob stick to 105 but I like the SRAM levers just from playing around in the shop. Never ridden either one.

I strongly suggest you actually ride a SRAM equipped bike before making any decision either way.

:)

FPSDavid 02-21-12 04:34 PM

Why does Cannondale not use the full groupsets on a lot of their bikes? Is it a cost reason? Or they think some parts are better? i.e. brakes (tektro), cranksets (fsa)?

alpha_bravo 02-21-12 04:41 PM


Originally Posted by FPSDavid (Post 13880795)
Why does Cannondale not use the full groupsets on a lot of their bikes? Is it a cost reason? Or they think some parts are better? i.e. brakes (tektro), cranksets (fsa)?

The former, definitely not the latter. If there is one part I would change first, it's the Tektro brakes. Second the cranks, I don't think FSA cranks shift smoothly at all.

Ultraslide 02-21-12 04:42 PM

FSA cranksets are because Shimano does not offer a BB30 crank. Tektro brakes are just a way to save money.

Ultraslide 02-21-12 04:45 PM


Originally Posted by NWS Alpine (Post 13880571)
More I look at it I really want to get the CAAD10 4 with SRAM Rival with the CAAD10 replica liquigas color frame. Ugh why must I be so picky. I wonder how much it would cost to do the groupset swap from my dealer. Most likely more than it's worth.

I should prob stick to 105 but I like the SRAM levers just from playing around in the shop. Never ridden either one.

If you have no prefernce then just get the Liquigas frame with 105. The difference is nominal at best. I just went from Shimano to SRAM and I like the SRAM kit okay but it's not an incredible improvement functionally speaking. Don't overthink it. Get the bike. Ride.

I <3 Robots 02-21-12 04:56 PM


Originally Posted by 2ndGen (Post 13878605)
...or, some people are just more comfortable with a different height than
those who aren't comfortable with lower stem heights on their bikes. :D



I ride the hoods most of the times. I don't like riding in the drops personally.
The only times I'll ride the drops will be on descents and to accelerate.

Here's a question:
How many of those who can't ride with slammed stems (or at least, low stem heights)
can physically work in a bent position for 8-10 hours a day with a 10lbs of tools around
their waist in all kinds of weather extremes (weather from the teens to the high 90's)
while swinging a 5lb pneumatic nailer about 4,800 times a shift on an angle?


Like this:

http://www.charlotteroofingcontracto...=1265738763666

Seems unrelated, but it's not really.

I could see how this position might be more difficult to sustain for those who aren't conditioned by hard labor,
but for others it's part of the job and even easier in recreational activities (trust me, a 16lb bike with wheels is
much easier to push than a 100lb stack of shingles up a 40' aluminum ladder). For those who aren't used to
hard work, they have to condition themselves with exercise and with working out to get to that level.
For others, it's another day at work.

When I hear all these rules (and there are a lot of them), I wonder...who do we trust?
The guy who says (A) or the guy who says (B) is right or the guy who insists that (C) is the only way?

That's why "to each his own" is the most appropriate phrase here.
Not everyone who rides a bicycle counts watts or charts their progress.
Not everyone who rides a bicycle races their bike or is on a college team.
And not everyone who rides a bicycle is a dentist or an engineer or a student.
Right? In the immortal words of that late 70's sitcom: It takes different strokes to move the world.

:thumb:



:lol:

So all those husky roofer guys I see can run a 8-9cm saddle to bar drop?

I got a buddy thats a welder (they spend lots of time bent over too) and he's as stiff as a 2x4.

FPSDavid 02-21-12 05:08 PM


Originally Posted by alpha_bravo (Post 13880815)
The former, definitely not the latter. If there is one part I would change first, it's the Tektro brakes. Second the cranks, I don't think FSA cranks shift smoothly at all.

What about Cannondale brakes? My bike is a 2010 CAAD8 6 (Sora/Tiagra combo) with Cannondale brakes (and salmon whateveryoucallem brake pads), but it actually has Shimano crank (although its Sora).

I <3 Robots 02-21-12 05:18 PM

The brakes are probably made by a third party and branded as Cannondale.

Braking performance can usually be enhanced by getting better pads.

Burglar 02-21-12 05:29 PM

My CAAD10-5 is coming along. Sorry for the lack of white garage door pic. My garage door is old, crappy, and bullet hole ridden.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...t/IMG_0111.jpg


Changes so far:
Saddle: Selle San Marco Regale
Bar tape: Fizik (grey).
Wheels: Velocity A23/Shimano 105 hubs from Handspun http://handspunwheels.com/products/view_product/1802/
Tires: Conti Gatorskin 25mm (got in on the $30/tire deal last at westernbikeworks.com SCORE!!!)
Cateye wireless thingy that shows me how slow I am.
The stock stem was too short, so the LBS swapped it for a 120mm Cannondale C4.
Dirt: needs a bath.

Planned future changes:
Brakes: probably Shimano 105. (might as well stick with 105).
Handlebar: Not sure yet. I'm not really digging the shallow drop. But I like the flat transition to the hoods. Considering the Pro Vibe 7S Round bars.
Pedals: Speedplay Zero or Light Action. Not sure yet.

I'm undecided on the grey bar tape. I LOVE the Fizik Microtex, but I might just go with black. The grey does compliment the graphics on the fork though... and that was the idea. Those red bar plugs gotta go at some point. They just look out of place.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...t/IMG_0109.jpg

2ndGen 02-21-12 05:30 PM


Originally Posted by I <3 Robots (Post 13880861)
So all those husky roofer guys I see can run a 8-9cm saddle to bar drop?

I don't know. I can't speak for them because as I stated in my post, everybody's comfort level is different.
I can speak for myself only on that. That's the point of my post. Can I expect anyone who doesn't roof at
the level of a pro to roof anywhere near the level of a pro roofer? Or even an apprentice roofer? Should the
same standards that apply to the pro roofer be applied to them on ther first day of work? Or should
different standards be applied and expected (like, say expecting him to be less efficient than the pro)?
How does one set the standard/limit (again, the rule making guys)? Comfort is subjective.



I got a buddy thats a welder (they spend lots of time bent over too) and he's as stiff as a 2x4.
Thank you for proving my point on there being different strokes for different folks.

Welders actually stay in one place for an extended amount of time where as
Roofers are constantly on the move for the overwhelming majority of their work day.
It would make perfect sense that he wouldn't be as flexible as a Roofer. Despite
him being in a bent over position, both have very different approaches to their work.

:)

2ndGen 02-21-12 05:32 PM


Originally Posted by Burglar (Post 13880964)
My CAAD10-5 is coming along. Sorry for the lack of white garage door pic. My garage door is old, crappy, and bullet hole ridden.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...t/IMG_0111.jpg


Changes so far:
Saddle: Selle San Marco Regale
Bar tape: Fizik (grey).
Wheels: Velocity A23/Shimano 105 hubs from Handspun http://handspunwheels.com/products/view_product/1802/
Tires: Conti Gatorskin 25mm (got in on the $30/tire deal last at westernbikeworks.com SCORE!!!)
Cateye wireless thingy that shows me how slow I am.
The stock stem was too short, so the LBS swapped it for a 120mm Cannondale C4.

Planned future changes:
Brakes: probably Shimano 105. (might as well stick with 105).
Handlebar: Not sure yet. I'm not really digging the shallow drop. But I like the flat transition to the hoods. Considering the Pro Vibe 7S Round bars.
Pedals: Speedplay Zero or Light Action. Not sure yet.

I'm undecided on the grey bar tape. I LOVE the Fizik Microtex, but I might just go with black. The grey does compliment the graphics on the fork though... and that was the idea.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...t/IMG_0109.jpg

Very nice! If you go with the black tape, it'll be perfect IMO.
Westernbike is one of my favorite sellers.

:thumb:

2ndGen 02-21-12 05:34 PM


Originally Posted by FPSDavid (Post 13880895)
What about Cannondale brakes? My bike is a 2010 CAAD8 6 (Sora/Tiagra combo) with Cannondale brakes (and salmon whateveryoucallem brake pads), but it actually has Shimano crank (although its Sora).

Planet-X CNC Ultralight or Forged Brakes would be an excellent upgrade for $99-150. (save yourself 1/4lb).
You might have Kool-Stop Salmon pads (which I hear are very good).
The Ultralights will come with SwissStop which are great.

fishymamba 02-21-12 05:38 PM


Originally Posted by Ultraslide (Post 13880816)
FSA cranksets are because Shimano does not offer a BB30 crank.

But my BB30 CAAD9 came with a Tiagra crank.

I <3 Robots 02-21-12 05:59 PM


Originally Posted by 2ndGen (Post 13880968)
I don't know. I can't speak for them because as I stated in my post, everybody's comfort level is different.
I can speak for myself only on that. That's the point of my post. Can I expect anyone who doesn't roof at
the level of a pro to roof anywhere near the level of a pro roofer? Or even an apprentice roofer? Should the
same standards that apply to the pro roofer be applied to them on ther first day of work? Or should
different standards be applied and expected (like, say expecting him to be less efficient than the pro)?
How does one set the standard/limit (again, the rule making guys)? Comfort is subjective.




Thank you for proving my point on there being different strokes for different folks.

Welders actually stay in one place for an extended amount of time where as
Roofers are constantly on the move for the overwhelming majority of their work day.
It would make perfect sense that he wouldn't be as flexible as a Roofer. Despite
him being in a bent over position, both have very different approaches to their work.

:)

Auto mechanics are bent over all day to...so they should be super flexible too?

Your logic only seems to make sense to you. :)

My point was that most people "slam" for cosmetic reasons and cannot ride the drops for more than a few minutes.

Adjust your bars so that you can ride all the positions comfortably.

Velo_Tut 02-21-12 10:34 PM


Originally Posted by I <3 Robots (Post 13881101)
Adjust your bars so that you can ride all the positions comfortably.

***THIS ^^^

It's taken me over a year to finally find the perfect setup for my CAAD9. By that I mean the perfect handlebar height, seat height, pedal and shoe position, etc. For the longest time both my feet and junk would go numb after only 10 miles and my neck would kill me. I guess I'm hesitant to slam my stem and mess up the geometry I've finally succeeded in mastering. That having been said, I ride more efficiently now, my pedal stroke has been perfected, I don't mash like I use to, and I can stay in the drops for well over 30 mins. Perhaps it's time to at least move some spacers around and easy myself into a slammed stem position. I'd like to think I'm more flexible now that I've been putting so many hours in the saddle, but perhaps it's all just an attempt to be accepted in the "Hot or Not" thread.... yeah, I went there.

I <3 Robots 02-21-12 10:53 PM

I mean do it if your fit or fitness dictates it. A new rider friend of mine has his stem slammed, because it looks good to him...even though he told me while in the drops...his thighs hits his stomach when pedaling. He'd rather look cool than use his drops...but if thats what makes him happy then so be it. I told him he might as well just get flat bars.

I was fitted with my stem all the way down, but...I'm more torso than leg...so I don't have a large saddle to bar drop.

2ndGen 02-21-12 11:04 PM


Originally Posted by I <3 Robots (Post 13881101)
Auto mechanics are bent over all day to...so they should be super flexible too?

Your logic only seems to make sense to you. :)

My point was that most people "slam" for cosmetic reasons and cannot ride the drops for more than a few minutes.

Adjust your bars so that you can ride all the positions comfortably.

Shoe shiners are bent over all day too.

You're focusing on the position and not the flexibility of the work.
This is precisely why I chose a specific example and compared it
to the welder's example showing how activity (not position alone)
dictates flexibility for that particular trade.

Stem at same size: Road with classic curve bar. Couldn't ride it for more than 6 minutes.
Went with a compact bar. Could ride it comfortably for a lot longer than 6 minutes.
Never measured how long because I didn't care especially since I don't ride in the drops.
Again, not everybody wants to ride in the drops for more than 6 minutes anyway. Right?
BUT the point is that the stem height was the same.

So, like me, if they ride the hoods most of the time, then slamming the stem won't hurt them.
Now if one of the rules is that riders MUST ride in the drops for more than 6 minutes, again,
I wasn't aware. And, I wouldn't do it anyway just to follow what someone else thinks is best.

My advice, make the bike fit you for the type of riding you do (not what others think is cool
whether it's a slammed stem or a bar with 70 5mm spacers under it). I've noticed that fads
come and go. Comfort levels evolve.

:)

From The Digital Underground School of Bike Fitting & Life In General...


milkbaby 02-21-12 11:08 PM


Originally Posted by Velo_Tut (Post 13882248)
It's taken me over a year to finally find the perfect setup for my CAAD9. By that I mean the perfect handlebar height, seat height, pedal and shoe position, etc. For the longest time both my feet and junk would go numb after only 10 miles and my neck would kill me. I guess I'm hesitant to slam my stem and mess up the geometry I've finally succeeded in mastering.

There's nothing that says you can't lower the bars one spacer at a time. Once you hit an uncomfortable or less powerful position, move it back. I've ridden a 70+ mile solo TT riding 90% of the time in the drops and hooks. I still think a lot of people have gone crazy with respect to what looks aesthetically pleasing... I'm not going to set up my bike to please the whacked out tastes of some bike geek on the internet. I set it up to please the whacked out bike geek that sleeps in my bed. :)


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