Canondale really needs to go back to this paint scheme of black and white major colors, pick your minor color:

If I would have known the green grass would have popped with the green in the frame like that, I would have prepped the bike a bit. Anyways, here is my modest CAAD 10-5.

I'm going to attempt to trim my steerer tube on my CAAD10 now that I'm pretty satisfied with my position. Since I only get one try at this, does anyone have a good site for step-by-step instructions? I guess I could take it to the LBS, but I'm trying to do as much as possible on my own.

You can buy jigs to get a straight cut, otherwise you can 'freehand' if you're any good with a hacksaw and can cut tubing straight - it isn't too difficult and carbon is fairly soft to cut. If you're not confident, I'm sure your LBS would do it for minimal coin - may save you some grief in the end...

cheers

That's an awesome pic. Nice job! Where is this btw?

measure twice cut once.

mark place u need to cut with painters tape and pencil marking. I use a 'ultrasonic' cutter thing that's i use for fiberglass stuff on cars for carbon steerers. seems to work fine. Doesn't get the straightest cuts cuz it's like vibration city, but i then followup with a little sanding on the top of the steerer to make it 'straight'. Account for all of that when measuring to cut (if u cut), as you take off some material if you follow it up with another process.

so far i still have all my teeth and i've cut 4 steerers like this.

Glad you've still got those teeth.

Here's what I did. It's a combination of many different suggestions I found while searching around.
1. Remove the topcap and expander and any of the spacers you had on top.
2. Measure from the top of the steer tube to the top of the stem (the length of the steer tube sticking out).
3. Remove the stem & remaining spacers and disassemble the rest of the headset. Make sure to keep track of which bearings go where and which way is up!
4. Measure down from the end of the steer tube the distance you got in step 2 and add 2mm to that length. Wrap some masking tape tightly around the steer tube so that it's about centered on the spot you measured. Measure again and mark on the masking tape where you're going to cut.
5. Attach a hose clamp (or pipe saw guide thing if you've got one) so its top edge is sitting right on the line you marked. This will be your cutting guide. If it looks like the hose clamp will be against the carbon, add an extra wrap below the tape you've already applied so the hose clamp will not scratch your steer tube.
6. Use a fine toothed hacksaw (32tpi is what I used, I wouldn't recommend going any coarser) and cut along the top side of the hose clamp. I used some oil on the blade to keep from making a lot of dust. You don't want to be breathing carbon fibers. I've heard others have used water instead of oil. I'm not sure it matters since you can clean it when you're done anyways. Don't be in too much of a hurry to cut through it too fast; take small bites and take your time.
7. Once the end it cut off, remove the hose clamp and masking tape. Use some fine grit sand paper to polish the end of the steer tube and make a small chamfer on the edge to remove burrs and avoid cuts. Don't use too wide of an angle; the chamfer should go down no greater than 1mm from the end.
8. Clean up the steer tube and reassemble the headset, spacers and stem. Verify that the steer tube ends no deeper than 3mm from the top of the stem. Then reattach the expander and top cap.

Hope that helps. Everything went really smoothly for me; I had no issues at all and it was a very easy job.

I know it's been posted here before but here's cannondale's instructions for the CAAD10 expander and top cap assembly.

Thought this would be the perfect place for my first post. Took this pic on my ride yesterday. Had this bike for a little more than one month, and I love it. Got plenty of upgrades in mind, but untill then, I'm really happy with it, as it is.

Looking at the older picture, I don't see any spacers above the stem. How much space is there between the top of your steerer tube and the top of the stem now that you've added 6mm of stack? BTW, what's the handlebar? Rotundo?

Thanks, mrjim. Doesn't look too hard (he said before trashing his beautiful CAAD).

Nice bike, and that looks like a beautiful spot for a bike ride. I rode with a guy from Denmark last year when he was here for the summer: https://app.strava.com/athletes/982664

Thanks, its in a city called Naha, Okinawa Japan.

on this 4th bike my cutting was kinda not straight so indeed i had the smallest 2mm spacer above the stem, as the steerer was probably flush if not 1mm above the stem. In adding the new cap, the steerer is still above the top clamping bolt of the stem. I def wouldn't have added the taller cap is the top of the steerer was below the top clamping bolt .... i need those teeth.

the handle bar is a 40cm easton tko bar. Stiffer heavier veresion of the easton equipe pro bar. 75 reach 130 drop , classical bend. Since discontinued long ago, and all forms were bought up on ebay by easton mechanics to put on cuddle and phil gil's bikes. =(

/handlebar rant

prep it next time with 53/11

You're not the first one I've seen say that about the Easton Equipe Pro/TKO bar shape. It's amazing really that it's still discontinued considering what seems to be a rising demand for traditional round shapes among both pro and recreational riders.

yea agreed. There are plenty of 'classic' bars out there, wcs classic, deda newton shallow, fsa, rotundo , etc.... but none have the 'short shallow' measurements or the exact* bend. The equipe / tko isn't as circle as the PRO 'round' bar and not as 'ramped' as the wcs classic / deda. If another bar existed that was the same as the equipe/tko, I'd have it =(.

so far though... i have 9 equipe/tko bars in 42/40cm.... i guess for a rainy day.

My LBS is having a sale on the CAADS:
$2900 Blank Inc
$2000 Force 2
$1800 Ulegra 3
$1600 Rival 4

My budget was roughly $2500 pretax, I was going to wait for the 2014 models, think its worth getting one of these? If yes, with my budget what do you recommend I do.

Thanks.

Force 2 is a great bike. Get it.

Awesome, ordered it, should be here in about a week. Thanks.

I ended up going with this colorway.

Nice!

Welcome to the cult.

Nice choice NYC! Welcome to the madness!

Yup...Force 2.

Are the wheels on the Force worth upgrading?
I won't be doing any major hill climbs and I am not too concerned about weight.
I am 6'4, 185 lbs.

If you do recommend upgrading, what would be a good set to start looking at for under 1k.

Initially I would only replace parts for the sake of fit...bar, stem, saddle.

Ride it for a few months...get to know the bike...then upgrade from there.

So, it looks like Cannondale is ditching the SuperSix and just having the SuperSix Evo now, comes as low as 105.

Evo Hi-Mod Dura-Ace Di2:


Evo Hi-Mod SRAM Red Racing:


Evo SRAM Red:


Evo Ultegra:


Evo 105:


CAAD10 105(?):

Love the look of this rig mate - enjoy it!

cheers