it will be fine, as long as you didn't over tighten anything. Many others have done this method before until they got comfortable with the fit, then cut the steerer. Make sure you post an updated pic once you have settled in with the fit and cut the steerer.

When I thought the bike was new the deal was a steal. Used and with 1000 mi on it, its still a good deal, just not a steal. I hope you get it and have lots of fun riding.

Thanks! Will definitely post a pic when I'm done with the fit. I'm also planning a wheel upgrade in the next couple of months, so I will post a pic when the money spending is over.

Don't leave it like that permanently though...Cannondale specifically says not to do that in the instruction manual.

Realistically, you should be ok though.

Thanks for the reply. Yes I know about the manual. I only plan of riding it like that for a couple of rides. After that it will be cut :)

Oelgaard, when you decide on the stem height that suits you and are ready to cut the steerer tube, go to a hardware store or plumbing supply and get a tubing cutter to do the work. It gives you a clean smooth cut with no debris from a kerf being cut into the tube. They are not expensive and can be used time and again by your mates and you. A simple saw and hoping you hold it straight will do the job but this is an inexpensive tool and great way to do a clean looking, precise job. Pics would be appreciated when you are done.

Bill

The pipe cutter works awesome as qcpmsame has said on aluminum steerers. What about CF stems? Anything work better than a fine hacksaw blade?

Yes, I was applying the tubing cutter use to a carbon finer steerer here, there are some You Tube videos about this procedure and using a tubing cutter he/you could look at. With the tubing cutter for either CF or an aluminum tube there will be no burrs from the cut as a saw blade, no matter how fine a TPI you choose to use. I was going on the thought that a CAAD 10 has a CF fork and steerer tube in my reply. Hope this clarifies things, somewhat.

Bill

Hey everybody.
This is my first post. I’m reading through this CAAD cult thread and loving it. I just bought my first road bike a few weeks ago. 2013 CAAD 10 4. I’m new to road cycling. I’m a MTB guy but my 9 year old just started triathlon last year so that enticed my to buy a road bike. She rides an Argon 18 Xenon 24 see pic bellow. Very nice junior bike. My budget was limited for my bike. I did a lot of searching on the net and CAAD 10 was pretty much the best bang for the buck purchase I think. I got a respectable deal from my LBS for the bike, 105 carbon pedals and shoes. Here is a quick pic. Must take the plastic disk off before spring before everyone tells me to! ;-)

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=359841http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=359842

Got a request for suggestions here from Fellow CAAD owners/

Here are the facts: I purchased a CAAD10 105, the 2013 model on sale a couple of months ago. I was not impressed by most of the stock material, so here's what I changed:

--Wheels: Now have Mavis Ksyrium Equipe S with Mavic tires
--Seat post: Now have Thomson Elite
--Handlebar: Now have FSA low drop bar, whatever it is called.

Any other suggestion in terms of gear substitution to make the rig either cooler, lighter, faster, or more reliable?

Thanks in advance,

welcome to the Cult, nice bike. be happy and ride it for miles and miles. ask any questions here, we all love CAAD as you can see from this thread. Congrats on having an active kid, continue pushing her to her dream, maybe a CAAD is in her future too :thumb:

You mean compact bars. I have to use them as well. They are nice.

You don't need any gear substitutions really. The bike wil perform as is. You can get better front shifting from a 105 crank over the gossamer, but it's not a need. Get some spare tires, tubes, and other gear that you will NEED. It's always good to have things you need on hand. Congrats on the bike and enjoy.

oh, if you have not already, share a pic of the bike. we know what it looks like, but we have not seen yours. Hang around here often, join in on the discussion, you will become a real CAADict.

Thanks Seymour.

I'll post pics asap (when back from work probably).

I'd love to get a 105 crank, but is that possible since the CAAD10 2013 comes with BB30? HAve you done this, does it work?
Already had my first issue with the standard FSA crankset and had to take it to the Dealership.... Luckily the dealer was cool, but from what I hear fsa cranks are as troublesome as their handlebars are reliable...

Ok, I've finally been able to ride my new 56cm CAAD10 Force Racing, albiet on my trainer. My pedals finally arrived. I'm 5'10" and pretty average torso/leg length/arm length. I felt very stretched out on the bike. Could barely reach the brake levers. I bought the bike without trying out a 54cm. I compared the geometry with my Specialized Tarmac, and it seemed pretty close. I'm hoping that a stem/bar swap with shore things up. Would switching to a zero offset seatpost help? I'm relatively dense when it comes to things like this.
I'm guessing the stem is 100mm and I know the bars are 44cm and seems to have a very long reach.
Any thoughts???

get a zero offset seatpost, maybe 90mm stem and short and shallow bars. On the short reach bars the brake levers will be closer to you.

The FSA Omega compact, or wing pro compact may work for you.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FSA-WING-PRO...#ht_2963wt_896

I don't have a CAAD10, but I think it can be done.

I have not had any issues with my FSA wing pro compact bars, don't scare me :eek:
:eek:

Didn't mean to scare you, trying to say I had a great experience with FSA Wing pro's -- have one on my CAAD9. However the cranks and bb are less good in y limited experience and from what I heard and read...

2k miles so far on my FSA crank and no issues so far. Although I'm planning to upgrade to force22 when i return from my business trip. There is an adapter to you can use to run Shimano Cranks. http://www.competitivecyclist.com/wh...er-for-shimano

Yep, can be done, there are any number of BB30 - 24mm converters out there - Praxis Works, Wheels Mfg, FSA, etc, etc. I only recently installed a pair of Wheels Mfg converters - they are very simple to install, press into the BB30 bearings and the Shimano 24mm crankset spindle pushes through them. I've found them to be a very good alternative and the DA7900 cranks I installed shift better than the FSA SL-K Light ones I took off. The only reason I went this way was because the pedal nut in the NDS crank arm on the FSA cranks came loose and cannot be repaired. Bit of a bugger really.

cheers

got me a CAAD10 Di2, haven't ridden it yet, just been setting it up the past few days.

http://i.imgur.com/V9pumEO.jpg

You have a few changes from stock - wheels, stem, chain, tires, crank, anything else? And hey - re-wrap those bars!!

the pic makes the wrap job look worse than it is!

Upgrade from stock:
Bars: PRO Vibe 7S Anatomic Handlebar
Stem: PRO Vibe Carbon Sprint Stem
Chain: KMC X10SL, Gold
Wheels: Will update soon but generic eBay carbon wheels
Cassette: 11/28 Ultegra 6700
BarTape: Lizard Skin 2.5 DSP
Crank: Quarq Riken PowerMeter
Brakepads: Swisstop Yellow's

I still need to swap the saddle out but it's pretty much ready to go. Bike feels way heavy compared to my SuperSix which had equivalent components except for SRAM Rival.

nice looking Cdale right there. But yeah that bar tape has to be re-wrapped. Picture aint lying, that isn't good.

From last week just before finishing.
Zipp bars, stem, seatpost, prologo carbon saddle.
I managed to grab syncross wheels off a customer in the shop for a good price.
Old 10 speed Sram Red.
The bike rides great, couldn't be happier.

http://i39.tinypic.com/29ckrrd.jpg

very nice