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Originally Posted by Doughboy6
(Post 16638646)
Curious did the wrench at your shop try putting the green locktite that another poster had suggested?
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There are several green Loctite formulas. 609 and 641 are both bearing retaining compounds, I used 609, cleaned both surfaces with acetone, and pressed-in the FSA adapter. I have 2000 miles with no creaking. If I ever have a problem, meaning the surface is no longer true, I'll switch to one of the Bdop adapters that basically changes the BB30 to a press-fit type adapter. You can also switch to standard BB30 bearings and Wheels Mfg Delrin adapters, or just do the Parlee BB30/shimano bearings which are probably the simplest design. There are at least three options out there but if your BB is already noisy, the FSA adapter is no longer an option.
Edit: The Bdop adapter is no longer on the site. Edit 2: Praxis has an awesome BB30/Shimano adapter now. That's my first choice after the FSA one fails. |
New at this forum but been lurking for a long time. I'm 33yrs old and from Belgium.
My 2013 Caad10 also started to creak at the crank after a few rides. I'm a presision mechanical engineer with 15years professional experience in manufactering parts for automobile and pharmacutical industry. I dissasembled the bearing and did some measuring. Contact surface roundness was seriously out of tolerance. With some specialty tools I reamed the hole in the frame and remounted the same bearing with a liberal amount of teflon grease. Problem solved and still creak free after 5000kms. Asian low budget manufactering quality... My suggestion: If you ride a bike, start to learn how to fix it and stop crying like babies or go walking. |
I don't think many bother to check the BB shell to see if it is within spec.
http://www.speedonebike.com/upload/images/BB30_04.jpg |
Originally Posted by blackline81
(Post 16641773)
New at this forum but been lurking for a long time. I'm 33yrs old and from Belgium.
My 2013 Caad10 also started to creak at the crank after a few rides. I'm a presision mechanical engineer with 15years professional experience in manufactering parts for automobile and pharmacutical industry. I dissasembled the bearing and did some measuring. Contact surface roundness was seriously out of tolerance. With some specialty tools I reamed the hole in the frame and remounted the same bearing with a liberal amount of teflon grease. Problem solved and still creak free after 5000kms. Asian low budget manufactering quality... My suggestion: If you ride a bike, start to learn how to fix it and stop crying like babies or go walking. Glad it fixed your problem though. Unless I got it used, I would never drill the frame. |
It's also a bit of a reach to just say "learn how to fix it" when the described fix involves disassembling a bearing, measuring tolerances, purchasing specialty tools, and reaming the bottom bracket. Especially if you screw up you've already voided the warranty and you're left SOL :p
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Originally Posted by Nebby10
(Post 16642868)
It's also a bit of a reach to just say "learn how to fix it" when the described fix involves disassembling a bearing, measuring tolerances, purchasing specialty tools, and reaming the bottom bracket. Especially if you screw up you've already voided the warranty and you're left SOL :p
Anecdotally, the warranty is probably still in place because no-one in the warranty review process is hip to the aline-bore he did. I doubt anyone at Cannondale or the shop could look at the BB and tell it was corrected. |
Originally Posted by SirHustlerEsq
(Post 16642907)
Machinists are a special breed of people, yet a class that keeps the world turning. Just nod your head and move on. lol
Anecdotally, the warranty is probably still in place because no-one in the warranty review process is hip to the aline-bore he did. I doubt anyone at Cannondale or the shop could look at the BB and tell it was corrected. While his warranty is probably fine, someone that tries to do the same and fails probably won't be as lucky. |
Originally Posted by igotyofire
(Post 16594241)
So I demoed my first CAAD10 (2013 SRAM FORCE) & holy crap this is an amazing & smooth & fast accelerating feeling bike. I liked the responsiveness & the way the power gets put down better then the low end Supersix I rode immediately after. It was also my first time trying SRAM which I was quite impressed with. I currently ride a Carbon bike and the CAAD10 felt great! So much so I must find one. The CAAD10 feels like a nice Carbon bike. I want to join the CAAD10 Cult but only flat/matte black will due. I explored painting options and it seems that is just money down the hole($400?). Found some great deals on 2013 BLK INC, but refuse to buy since I cant upgrade it to a mechanical group. I must either get a 2014 CAAD10 3, or 2014 Black Inc the later of which a little hard to justify price-wise but it does have the SRAM & I wouldn't need to change a single thing ever other then maybe a seat. I am trying to convince myself now that I probably would spend the same amount as the current BLK Inc cost over the course of 1-2 years with upgrades so maybe its cheaper bite the bullet. I think I would be pretty happy geting the 2013 SRAM FORCE model and possibly attempt to paint a flat/matte black myself. My current bike is a FELT Z4 which I will probably keep, but I need to join the CULT! :)
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1...406_102221.jpg |
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i picked the worst pic i could take whilst suffering a severe cold and during a busy week at work.
and, i hate you, internet, for not allowing me to upload a properly sized picture. dick. enjoy! http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=373614 |
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I know posted this already in the "What bike do you have" stickie, but I wanted to officially join the cult..
2012 CAAD8 7 Sora - This is my first real road bike and my first foray in to Road Cycling. So far it has been very fulfilling and it seems to have taken hold like a drug..... Oh, and ignore the adjustable stem....just using it to figure the correct rise and length for a fixed stem replacement. Factory stem made the cockpit at odds with my physique. http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=373686http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=373687 |
Welcome to the Cult, a CAAD 8 is a good, solid entry bicycle, you should enjoy the miles this one will give you. Post some pics when you get the stem sorted out.
Bill |
Originally Posted by igotyofire
(Post 16648051)
Officially joined the cult! (guess I no longer refuse electronic groupset) Size 60CM, weighed in at 17lbs 3oz
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1...406_102221.jpg Did you color the "K" on the SL-K crank to match? Or is that factory color? |
Originally Posted by h2oxtc
(Post 16657649)
Did you color the "K" on the SL-K crank to match? Or is that factory color?
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Originally Posted by igotyofire
(Post 16648051)
Officially joined the cult! (guess I no longer refuse electronic groupset) Size 60CM, weighed in at 17lbs 3oz
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1...406_102221.jpg |
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Ready for summer racing!http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=374066
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Bottom bracket started to click. ****.
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Originally Posted by SirHustlerEsq
(Post 16658268)
I"ve never seen a bicycle that needed a black chain-ring so badly in my life. Great looking bicycle though, I pedal next to one like that a couple times per week.
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Originally Posted by Muffin Man
(Post 16662994)
Bottom bracket started to click. ****.
Manuals Accessories Click on the BB/PF30 section, open the pdf file and the instructions are there for your use. Bill |
Originally Posted by Team Sarcasm
(Post 16663830)
x2. [MENTION=367695]igotyofire[/MENTION] my fsa crank will look much better so you should trade me :D
http://www.bicyclebuys.com/productim...700068PART.jpg |
Originally Posted by eriku16
(Post 16642174)
i don't think many bother to check the bb shell to see if it is within spec.
http://www.speedonebike.com/upload/images/bb30_04.jpg |
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