Who the hell is wrenching your bike? If I recall correctly we're local, I'll put your bearings in if you want them to stop creaking.

Nice shot, sir!

very cool picture indeed!

just a local bike shop. i'm going to try this shop that deals cannondale. if they can't fix it then i'll hit you up!

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8374/8...5d0bbde7_z.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8233/8...54db1629_z.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8367/8...b98d29e2_z.jpg

decided to have a productive sunday.

Nice pics Impreza, the last on is my favorite!

I hate BB30.

I hate people who don't read tech docs.

I was gong to do this ride today. Looks like it was nice up there

Where is that? I should probably know.

mt. hamilton.

Missing my Caad. I think I am going to take advantage of a good local deal on a 10-4 Raw.

I read tech docs thoroughly. BB30 comes with problems and irritations that an English threaded bottom bracket doesn't have. And yet it conveys no real benefits over English threaded to outweigh the PITA factor of BB30.

It's a marketing gimmick more than an engineering need.

If you have the BB30 noises ask a Cannondale dealer for the Technical memo on proper installation of a BB30 system that was issued last year. It was on the website in the technical docs but has been removed for the new model year. My BB30 has never made a noise at all, I do normal regular maintenance with no issues so far after 1-1/4 year with my 10 4. I am a clyde at 230 so if it was an issue of applying torque to the BB30 to make it creak from improper installation I would do it easily with my ability to mash, no matter the gear selection. I will qualify that I usually spin while riding , not mashing.

If you do decide to change form a BB30 bottom bracket there is a document detailing the adapter for using a threaded bottom bracket with a part number at the BB30 website that is up for any manufacturer to acquire the usage of BB30 since it is an open design. The part and its number are shown and its installation is detailed.

Bill

Headset click/creak is an easy fix. Clean the outside of the bearings and frame seats, fork steerer tube. Apply a thin layer of good grease, like marine waterproof bearing grease, to the outer bearing shells. Properly tension the top cap, done.

the creaking comes from the bottom bracket, a common (and irritating) problem with BB30-specific cranks.

Not really.

For most people like you and me where weight is not a primary concern, threaded BBs is still the better choice IMO. I still use a cartridge bearing BB (UN-26/52) on my training bike. It gets pounded with pedal stands on climbing and massive sprint efforts without a hint of creaking. But it's damn heavy.

BB30 was a solution intended for high-level racers where weight and stiffness (esp. at the BB area and crank) matter much. The use of a lightweight aluminum spindle required a larger diameter to maintain stiffness. The large spindle required an even larger bearing in an even larger BB shell, adding stiffness to the bike's frame.

It did address the problems, but created a few problems of their own. Using external bearings on BB30 would exaggerate pedal Q, so the bearings are placed inside the shell. Since there are no threads to hold them in place only a C-clip and interference fit, the force of pedaling on the bearing will eventually shake it loose leading to creaking.

Applying Loctite Blue on the bearing seats helps delay the onset of the creaking.

Of course it will still creak if you use threadlocker when you should be using gaping compound. No problems with properly installed bearings.

9 times out of 10 the source of the creak is not the BB30 bearings.

And where do you suggest I look for it?

I'm loving reading all of these BB30 bearing problems posts.

I just bought a CAAD 10-3 (I pick it up tomorrow) specifically as a race bike. Perhaps I should have my LBS install an adapter and replace the BB30 crank with one of my Ultegra cranks right away?

Gaping compound?

I know how to properly install bearings. It eventually still creaks after a few thousand kilometers of hard pedaling.

EDIT: I had a brainfart and wrote the "Loctite Blue" which is a threadlocker. The "gaping compound" you were referring to is a retaining compound (609 or 641). Thank you for the correction.

I don't think so. If you're worried about the press fit interface between the bearings and the shell, why would a press fit interface between the shell and a sleeve be a solution?

Those creak too.

re: headset clicking I was replying to post 5459.
re: "BB clicking", each time for me it was a pedal bearing giving a death rattle. Damn that BB30 !