![]() |
Originally Posted by zjrog
(Post 12153687)
Since I drooled through this whole thread, I HAVE to get my 98 R200 CAAD2 out... I'm 12 weeks post Total Knee Replacement, riding my hybrid on the indoor trainer, and planning to hit the trails with my MTB. But after this thread, I need to get that R200 out and put it on the trainer instead. Originally bought for my wife in 98, she wanted a triple crankset, so we splurged and upgraded to 105 triple and front derraileur. All the bike needs is tires/tubes, brake pads and bar tape. And a real good cleaning. Maybe a pic of it dirty later today.
And that's exactly how I got back "into" cycling. I used a bike to rehab myself after a very bad calf rupture. Oh, and welcome...drool some more! :D http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1296405561 |
yuck and ouch, how did you do that?
|
Originally Posted by hkboy313
(Post 12153819)
yuck and ouch, how did you do that?
My rear foot slipped on the grass behind me and I slammed all my 200lbs on my left leg at the same time that I was pushing the rung down. I heard a loud "pop"! And right there I knew something was not right. |
Originally Posted by 2ndGen
(Post 12153857)
And right there I knew something was not right.
Not fun for certain!!! Sure wish I had a dollar for every time I've said this!!! I'm a Clyde, yes I've over in that forum... Using the bikes for getting moving again, used to be a very active cyclist. Behind the times and behind the power curve. And out of shape enough to know better than to wear spandex! |
Originally Posted by 2ndGen
(Post 12151713)
Yes it'll fit, but don't get that tube. Get a good quality tube (like a Continental Race Lite) for only $2.00 more.
Matter of fact, buy at least 4 tubes. 2 to replace the tubes that come with your bike, and 2 spares (one you carry and one you have at home to replace the one you use on the road if you get a flat). You'll avoid a lot of headaches by getting good tubes and the price difference is negligible. |
Originally Posted by Excelsius
(Post 12154689)
Around here where I ride, I need extra thorn protection. And what is the reason for replacing the standard tubes that come with Cannondale? If it is the extra few grams, I don't think it will matter for starters like me.
I wouldn't tell you to change tubes to save weight, but it just so happens that in the Conti's case, they are excellent at retaining air and are light as well. As for thorn protection, I'd say focus on your tires for that. Anything that makes it through a tire will almost certainly make it through any tube you have. What will matter for starters like you is being able to start and finish a ride. With better quality tubes, your chances go up exponentially. BTW...that CAAD10 looks like it won't need much to upgrade. Saddle/bar/stem for fit (if necessary), bar tape for preference (again, if you're not happy with OEM tape), tires & brake pads to unleash The Kraken in your bike. For me? I probably wouldn't touch that cockpit (except maybe saddle) for a long time. Tires, tubes and brake pads? Absolutely without a doubt. Other than that, that bike is a complete package. If anything, when the money came in? I'd go with 105 brakes & crankset just to bring everything up to full spec. That's really a great bike to start out with, not only for the money, but period. Are you getting black or red? BTW...My suggestions for the best $200. you can initially spend on your bike are: ; SwissStop GHP2 Pads http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...fL._SL500_.jpg Continental Grand Prix 4000S Tires http://www.westernbikeworks.com/prod...50/co4ks-1.jpg Continental Race Lite Tubes http://www.pinkbiketrading.com/images/Product/154.jpg Fi'zi:k Microtex Tape & Gel http://www.probikekit.com/_img_500x640/A0690.jpg |
patiently waiting for my caad10 team frameset to come in.:thumb:
|
I'm blaming you all for this. New cult member just joined the ranks. I just had to get rid of the crappy Sora triple so I figured I'd just upgrade the whole bike instead. :thumb:
Already have to take it in because one of the middle rear gears is skipping, both on the large and small front gear. Any idea if that's something a bike novice can diagnose? I made the mistake of buying from a not so L BS http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5251/...2da3543b04.jpg http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5091/...5716cf5f77.jpg http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5172/...3c6ac00e27.jpg |
Originally Posted by Excelsius
(Post 12154689)
Around here where I ride, I need extra thorn protection. And what is the reason for replacing the standard tubes that come with Cannondale? If it is the extra few grams, I don't think it will matter for starters like me.
As things wear out or need to be replaced, you will have a better idea for what you need. Expensive tubes might work well for a city cyclist, but for someone who rides around goat head thorns, a tube is a tube which is a tube - they all flat just as easily. Cheap tubes and a flat repair kit are a better buy than expensive tubes if you're assaulted by lots of thorns. For now just buy whatever keeps you riding... My $.02
Originally Posted by muidaq
(Post 12156366)
I'm blaming you all for this. New cult member just joined the ranks. I just had to get rid of the crappy Sora triple so I figured I'd just upgrade the whole bike instead. :thumb:
Already have to take it in because one of the middle rear gears is skipping, both on the large and small front gear. Any idea if that's something a bike novice can diagnose? I made the mistake of buying from a not so L BS It's pretty likely that you simply need to tighten up your rear deralieur cable. It's pretty easy to do, simply turn the rear barrel adjuster on the rear deralieur until the gears stop skipping. As your cables break in chances are good they will stretch a little and every few hundred miles you will likely need some form of adjustment in various parts of your bike. I would suggest reading through the maintenance section at the Park Tool website, Sheldon Brown's website, or picking up the book "Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance." All three are great references which guide you through solving just about all problems you'll encounter on your bike. http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...nts-derailleur |
Originally Posted by muidaq
(Post 12156366)
I'm blaming you all for this. New cult member just joined the ranks. I just had to get rid of the crappy Sora triple so I figured I'd just upgrade the whole bike instead. :thumb:
Already have to take it in because one of the middle rear gears is skipping, both on the large and small front gear. Any idea if that's something a bike novice can diagnose? I made the mistake of buying from a not so L BS have the cables adjusted (as they will stretch). All normal as you're breaking the bike in. Congrats! Have some Kool-Aid! |
Originally Posted by alpha_bravo
(Post 12156492)
You've got the right idea, stick with it. Many members on this forum suffer from paralysis by analysis. You'll be just fine with your OEM gear on your Cannondale for quite a while. The stock tubes will be fine until they flat, nothing on the CAAD will prevent you from becoming a very experienced cyclist. As you ride more you will learn what gear works for you and your riding conditions.
As things wear out or need to be replaced, you will have a better idea for what you need. Expensive tubes might work well for a city cyclist, but for someone who rides around goat head thorns, a tube is a tube which is a tube - they all flat just as easily. Cheap tubes and a flat repair kit are a better buy than expensive tubes if you're assaulted by lots of thorns. For now just buy whatever keeps you riding... My $.02 That's some upgrade you made from Sora to top of the line CAAD! It's pretty likely that you simply need to tighten up your rear deralieur cable. It's pretty easy to do, simply turn the rear barrel adjuster on the rear deralieur until the gears stop skipping. As your cables break in chances are good they will stretch a little and every few hundred miles you will likely need some form of adjustment in various parts of your bike. I would suggest reading through the maintenance section at the Park Tool website, Sheldon Brown's website, or picking up the book "Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance." All three are great references which guide you through solving just about all problems you'll encounter on your bike. http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...nts-derailleur |
My new caad9
1 Attachment(s)
This is my 2010 caad9 with11 speed Stronglight rings over a 2011 record group. It sports super record brakes. I saved up $10 a day after quiting smoking 15 months ago. I just wanted to share it with other members now that is almost ready to ride.
|
1 Attachment(s)
|
Originally Posted by tigerblock
(Post 12156894)
|
Originally Posted by tigerblock
(Post 12156894)
http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...2&d=1296449565 Nice! |
Originally Posted by muidaq
(Post 12156366)
I'm blaming you all for this. New cult member just joined the ranks. I just had to get rid of the crappy Sora triple so I figured I'd just upgrade the whole bike instead. :thumb:
Already have to take it in because one of the middle rear gears is skipping, both on the large and small front gear. Any idea if that's something a bike novice can diagnose? I made the mistake of buying from a not so L BS http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5091/...5716cf5f77.jpg |
Originally Posted by 2ndGen
(Post 12154724)
Usually, OEM parts are the cheapest, bulk purchased items they could buy.
I wouldn't tell you to change tubes to save weight, but it just so happens that in the Conti's case, they are excellent at retaining air and are light as well. As for thorn protection, I'd say focus on your tires for that. Anything that makes it through a tire will almost certainly make it through any tube you have. What will matter for starters like you is being able to start and finish a ride. With better quality tubes, your chances go up exponentially. BTW...that CAAD10 looks like it won't need much to upgrade. Saddle/bar/stem for fit (if necessary), bar tape for preference (again, if you're not happy with OEM tape), tires & brake pads to unleash The Kraken in your bike. For me? I probably wouldn't touch that cockpit (except maybe saddle) for a long time. Tires, tubes and brake pads? Absolutely without a doubt. Other than that, that bike is a complete package. If anything, when the money came in? I'd go with 105 brakes & crankset just to bring everything up to full spec. That's really a great bike to start out with, not only for the money, but period. Are you getting black or red? BTW...My suggestions for the best $200. you can initially spend on your bike are: ; SwissStop GHP2 Pads http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...fL._SL500_.jpg Continental Grand Prix 4000S Tires http://www.westernbikeworks.com/prod...50/co4ks-1.jpg Continental Race Lite Tubes http://www.pinkbiketrading.com/images/Product/154.jpg Fi'zi:k Microtex Tape & Gel http://www.probikekit.com/_img_500x640/A0690.jpg I am getting the black one, but I am still torn between that and the CAAD10 4. Will start a thread just hear some ideas. |
Originally Posted by alpha_bravo
(Post 12156492)
You've got the right idea, stick with it. Many members on this forum suffer from paralysis by analysis. You'll be just fine with your OEM gear on your Cannondale for quite a while. The stock tubes will be fine until they flat, nothing on the CAAD will prevent you from becoming a very experienced cyclist. As you ride more you will learn what gear works for you and your riding conditions.
As things wear out or need to be replaced, you will have a better idea for what you need. Expensive tubes might work well for a city cyclist, but for someone who rides around goat head thorns, a tube is a tube which is a tube - they all flat just as easily. Cheap tubes and a flat repair kit are a better buy than expensive tubes if you're assaulted by lots of thorns. For now just buy whatever keeps you riding... My $.02 ... |
Originally Posted by Excelsius
(Post 12154689)
Around here where I ride, I need extra thorn protection. And what is the reason for replacing the standard tubes that come with Cannondale? If it is the extra few grams, I don't think it will matter for starters like me.
I used to have "friends" trying to convince me I needed to save grams on some parts. So once I tried the lighter weight parts. I broke them. I'm a Clyde, believe me, a few grams on the bike won't make a big difference unless you are at the top of your game, at 4% body fat and already have the lightest everything on your bike. Just don't buy the heaviest stuff either just to "compensate"! The lightweight stuff today is a ton stronger than 20 years ago when *I* was at my peak. |
Interesting thread. Newbie looking at a CAAD8 8 vs a Synapse. Trying to get into this without spending a LOT of money.
But the CAAD8 has the Shimano 2300's and the Synapse has Sora. Not seeing a lot of good used bikes for sale in my area (Atlanta). Although might not be the best place for asking opinions (CAAD Cult!), just thought I'd throw it out there. |
Originally Posted by Excelsius
(Post 12157472)
Yeah, since it's not clear to me exactly how the tubes improve performance and by how much, I'll stick with just regular ones. But in terms of upgrades, I think one thing that would really change performance would be new wheels since the rotational inertia would be significantly affected by lighter wheels. That will take me a while though.
I am getting the black one, but I am still torn between that and the CAAD10 4. Will start a thread just hear some ideas. All the high power parts in the world won't be of any use to you if you have flats that keep interrupting your riding. Also, it's really quite simple. If you have cheap tubes that lose 10-20 psi while you are riding, you lose a significant amount of performance when you need it most. I noticed a monumental difference when riding the broken glass encrusted pot-holed streets of New York City when I got good tubes and a great set of tires and best of all, I haven't had a flat yet. Think about it, besides your feet, the only part of the bike that actually touches the ground are your tires and they are supported by your tubes. For me, an extra $4. is well worth it for my safety. Cheap tubes suck and they take away from your riding time. A good set of wheels are only "as good" as the tires they have on them. It's smart to get good tires first, then get a better wheelset. |
Originally Posted by twentysomething
(Post 12158262)
Interesting thread. Newbie looking at a CAAD8 8 vs a Synapse. Trying to get into this without spending a LOT of money.
But the CAAD8 has the Shimano 2300's and the Synapse has Sora. Not seeing a lot of good used bikes for sale in my area (Atlanta). Although might not be the best place for asking opinions (CAAD Cult!), just thought I'd throw it out there. I'm seeing CAAD9's w/Tiagra going for around $900. and w/105 going for $1100. |
somethings thats been bothering me about the caad9 frame (52cm in particular) making sharp turn my shoes hit the tire! this only happens if im climbing out of saddle and make a 90 degree turn. when im coasting both feet parallel to ground theres no issue because i dont need to steer, just leaning into turns. Example would be turning left, and having my right foot up front and my wheel kicks the tip of my shoe, its scary because i've had near collisions all by myself.
i think this is an issue with the geometry on smaller frames...at least for cannondale? i have a POS 54 cm bike and never had this problem. now i only unclip to make a turn...any comments? |
Originally Posted by twentysomething
(Post 12158262)
Interesting thread. Newbie looking at a CAAD8 8 vs a Synapse. Trying to get into this without spending a LOT of money.
But the CAAD8 has the Shimano 2300's and the Synapse has Sora. Not seeing a lot of good used bikes for sale in my area (Atlanta). Although might not be the best place for asking opinions (CAAD Cult!), just thought I'd throw it out there. So far, I am still really happy with it. Like you, I didn't want to spend a lot of money. Since I was mostly a commuter I wanted to match the geometry of my commuter bike as close as possible and figured the caad had a good reputation. Hope this helps. |
Originally Posted by 2ndGen
(Post 12158344)
The Synapse is a more comfort oriented bike while the CAAD8 is definitely sportier. Both Sora and 2300 are pretty much on par with each other. But, for a couple hundred more, you should be able to pick up a Tiagra/105 bike which is well worth waiting for. Be patient and get the better bike from the beginning.
I'm seeing CAAD9's w/Tiagra going for around $900. and w/105 going for $1100. Decisions, decisions...... |
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:33 AM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.