Yes I agree the CAAD9 might be suspect and I should buy from LBS for fitting and tune-up advantages. Besides the shop I'd like to buy from is the one which is selling the CAAD8 and CAAD10. The shop with the CAAD9 is not dropping price below $1000. I've read numerous threads here and talked to a few LBS salesmen about the difference between CAAD8 and CAAD10 but have gotten mixed confusing/conflicting answers. The CAAD10 105 is awesome but it may be too much bike for me at this point. The CAAD8 105 with supposedly similar geometry but different frame construction and slightly less aggressive ride, is also good and may also be more than what I need right now. I am quite certain that even with a lot of training and improvement in my abilities over the next few years, the engine may need the upgrades more so than the bike.

That would make my decision right there. If you get good vibes from the people you deal with, concentrate on that shop. Bikes from the major manufacturers are very good across the board, so customer service is the discriminator.

The CAAD10 is probably the best aluminum frame RACE bike you can buy. It's designed to provide the riding positions that racers and go-fast riders need. If you're less flexible, the CAAD8 (or the aluminum Synapse) would be a better choice. They're not slow - speed is totally rider-dependent - but most riders are more comfortable on longer rides with a slightly more upright position. If you gain flexibility as a result of riding, you can change the stem to get the riding position on the CAAD8 lower and it'll still look right; if you change the stem to get a higher position on the CAAD10, it'll just look funky. BTDT.

As for upgrading the drivetrain...get the best you can afford now. Upgrading is not cost-effective. Having said that, nine speed Tiagra is good stuff, and you won't be faster on a ten speed bike. The main advantage of ten speeds over nine is that your gearing is closer together. Lots of experienced riders have stayed with nine speed drivetrains.

Best of luck!

As good as the CAAD bikes are I don't think anyone here will tell you that an aluminum bike with Shimano 105 is too much bike for anyone. Of course it's possible to go cheaper but that's a pretty good starting point IMHO. It's not like people will be looking at you saying, "you should be going faster with that bike, what's wrong with you?"

for what it is worth cad 10 frames = fork & headset here in texas are $999.00

Just picked up this bad boy today. Cannondale R2000, full ultegra 6500, mavic ksyrium sl ssc wheelset, 3t stem, 3t bars, hutchinson fusion tires, sella italia slr saddle. The bike only has 150 original miles on it and is in mint condition. The only isssue was that there is a small dent in the downtube.

I knew this when I bought the bike. The frame was already too small for me anyways. I really just wanted all the parts off the bike. The guy sold it to me for $400. Thats a great deal for just all the parts on the bike. If I can sell the frame then that brings the cost even lower for the parts.

All in all, I think it was a score.

Thanks cooleric and revchuck. I went with the CAAD10. The thing is just pure fun. Also, I figured I won't need to upgrade the frame or drivetrain for a very very long time this way and this would save money long term. I also figured I would would not have buyers remorse wondering if I should have gotten the bike I really want in the first place for an extra 200-300 bucks.

[QUOTE=hendrick81;13174787]Just picked up this bad boy today. Cannondale R2000, full ultegra 6500, mavic ksyrium sl ssc wheelset, 3t stem, 3t bars, hutchinson fusion tires, sella italia slr saddle. The bike only has 150 original miles on it and is in mint condition. The only isssue was that there is a small dent in the downtube.


Nice score! I've been lucky with a few similar type scores on CL also

50cm CAAD10 frame/fork.
Bars: PRO PLT Compact 42cm
Tape: Fizik Microtex
Stem: 3T ARX Pro 110mm (Ti bolts)
Seatpost: 3T Dorico Team (cut to 250mm)
Saddle: Specialized Romin Expert
Cranks: Cannondale Hollowgram SiSL 170mm
Chainrings: Stronglight CT2 50/34
Chain: KMC X10SL
Shifters: SRAM Red
FD: SRAM Force '09
RD: SRAM Force '09 w/ KCNC pulleys
Brakes: SRAM Force '09
Cables: Gore Ride-On Professional for shifting/ Jagwire OEM for brakes
Wheels: Shimano 7850 C24 CL
Skewers: KCNC Ti
Tubes: Michelin latex
Tires: Schwalbe Ultremo R.1
Cages: Arundel Mandible

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6082/...4c8629a7_z.jpg
Day 244: Calm Before the Storm by Hung.QM, on Flickr

^^ gorgeous build

I'm toying with the idea of a new bike, and am considering a CAAD10. Do you guys think the frame would be an improvement over a 2010 Tarmac Elite frame? Would it be liter/stiffer, about the same, etc?

Thanks

Took better photos today:

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6203/...05df7587_b.jpg
2011 CAAD10 by Hung.QM, on Flickr

I need some advice
I'm thinking of upgrading the wheels on my '11 CAAD10-4 to some Assault Reynolds & I was wondering if they would be a good choice considering the price and that they cost as much as I paid for the bike ? Any other wheels that you guys think might be a better alternative ?
Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Why those wheels? You can get better/lighter wheels than what's stock on your bike for less money. They're good wheels, but if you just want them 'cause they look cool...well, it's your money, and it's a free country. ;) From what I've read, there's no measurable performance benefit from aero wheels below ~22 mph, so if you don't ride solo at around that speed or higher, you'd be better served by good quality but lower profile wheels.

What would be some better options of clincher CF wheels ?

How much do you weigh? (Yeah, it matters.)

Also, any specific reason why you want carbon wheels? Be advised that "Just because I want them" is an excellent reason. ;) There are pros and cons to everything, and that includes carbon wheels. If you're curious about that, do a search on the forum here.

another update: got a shorter cone spacer and chopped the steertube some more, bb30 crank, new skewers

http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/...r/f7196e2f.jpg
http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/...r/83236e6c.jpg
http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/...r/df7cccbc.jpg
http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/...r/6ad9efc7.jpg

I'm 6'2 187lbs.
After doing some more research is pretty obvious that in order to get the full potential of CF wheels you would have to be a pro or probably ride close to that level but then again if we would follow that principle I don't know how many people here would buy CF wheels anymore.
So i guess the only thing left for me since I'm no pro or anywhere near that level is that I want them because I need all the help I can get to go faster :) and they look damn cool
Zitter what saddle is that ? and how you like it ?

fizik antares, loving it so far. came off a fizik arione which was too narrow plus the antares has a lot more flex in the shell so it's more comfortable

^^^^ what skewers are those? later.

Q: WTH is a "steertube"? Never ever heard that word used before.

zipp skewers

steer tube (sorry i mashed the words together) or some people say steerer tube, same difference

Cattle ranchers would know. :p :D

I already made a separate thread on this, but I will be ordering my Caad 10 5 tomorrow! Pictures will come in about 2 weeks when it should arrive.

That bike looks AWESOME

Any idea what kind of bar tape that is?

has anyone had any problems with the width of the top tube on the CAAD 10? I'm not super knock-kneed, but have noticed on occasion my needs go a little inward towards the top tube. I should just go try one out and ride it, but I'd just thought I'd ask first.