Setting up FD on DA7900
#1
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2009
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Setting up FD on DA7900
I'm still fine tuning my new bike, and the FD is still not right.
The derailleur low and high travel is perfect but my onnly grip is the following: When I push the left handle all the way to engage the big ring, it goes all the way out for the chain to move up, but then there is a small return of the FD towards the inside.
I need to get rid of this mini-return as the FD touches the chain when on the big ring.
The issue is not with the travel max setting with the 2 screws.
Is there anything that I don't know? Maybe a setting in the levers?
I hope my explanation was ok.
Thanks a lot.
The derailleur low and high travel is perfect but my onnly grip is the following: When I push the left handle all the way to engage the big ring, it goes all the way out for the chain to move up, but then there is a small return of the FD towards the inside.
I need to get rid of this mini-return as the FD touches the chain when on the big ring.
The issue is not with the travel max setting with the 2 screws.
Is there anything that I don't know? Maybe a setting in the levers?
I hope my explanation was ok.
Thanks a lot.
#2
Barrel adjusters. I had this problem. Clearly you can see that the derailleur has the capability to go that far out, but the return is due to slack from the shifter coming back to rest. Take up the slack by turning the barrel adjuster on the downtube counter-clockwise (it'll be easier to do this when the cable is slack, so shift to the small ring first).
Go a half turn at a time.
Go a half turn at a time.
#6
Click the link below and read it then read it again....
https://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830651777.pdf
https://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830651777.pdf
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BMC Roadmachine
Kona Jake the Snake
BMC Roadmachine
Kona Jake the Snake
#8
A little FD over throw is part of the design to help the chain climb up onto the big ring I think. A little return is normal. I just double checked my 7900 which shifts perfect and it does the same.
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BMC Roadmachine
Kona Jake the Snake
BMC Roadmachine
Kona Jake the Snake
#9
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2009
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This issue drove me crazy, so I loosened the FD cable to reset everything, and lo and behold, I found out that the cable didn't move freely at all through its housing at the bottom bracket. This explained the poor shifting performance and setup.
I cleaned and greased the cable and everything improved quite some, even though there was still some resistance in the cable movement.
Any input on how to improve on this?
Cables are Nokon, Gruppo is Shimano DA7900, frame is a Dogma.
Thanks.
I cleaned and greased the cable and everything improved quite some, even though there was still some resistance in the cable movement.
Any input on how to improve on this?
Cables are Nokon, Gruppo is Shimano DA7900, frame is a Dogma.
Thanks.
#10
the barbarian
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 324
Likes: 2
From: Evanston, IL
Bikes: Independent Fabrications Crown Jewel, Surly Steamroller(FG), Abici Podium (road)
If you bought all DA 7900, Nokon cables and a super high end Pinnarello frame and you don't know how to adjust a front derailleur, I'm guessing you had a shop build it for you (not meaning to sound negative).
I'd bring it back to the shop and have somebody do it (and show you how to fix it so you can do it in the future) for you lest your break anything expensive.
The cables probably just need to be tightened (new cables stretch a bit), which, to some degree can be accomplished by using the barrel adjusters, but may need to have the cable retention screw loosened, cable pulled tight, then re-adjusted.
Also, new cables in Nokon housing shouldn't need grease, maybe a very light oil, but they probably already had a teflon or related coating on them. A grease (usually referring to a heavier weight) may actually make the cable movement more sluggish.
I'd bring it back to the shop and have somebody do it (and show you how to fix it so you can do it in the future) for you lest your break anything expensive.
The cables probably just need to be tightened (new cables stretch a bit), which, to some degree can be accomplished by using the barrel adjusters, but may need to have the cable retention screw loosened, cable pulled tight, then re-adjusted.
Also, new cables in Nokon housing shouldn't need grease, maybe a very light oil, but they probably already had a teflon or related coating on them. A grease (usually referring to a heavier weight) may actually make the cable movement more sluggish.
#11
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2009
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I know how to adjust and how a FD functions; that's why I was able to troubleshoot the problem myself.
#12
the barbarian
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 324
Likes: 2
From: Evanston, IL
Bikes: Independent Fabrications Crown Jewel, Surly Steamroller(FG), Abici Podium (road)
there should be little friction under the BB, and the cable should never "come in contact with the frame" (it is a carbon frame and if the cable is rubbing on it, it will cut right through the bb shell).
This may be a longshot, but is there a cable guide installed under the bb shell? Such as this
There SHOULD be a light grease in the channels on this
This may be a longshot, but is there a cable guide installed under the bb shell? Such as this
There SHOULD be a light grease in the channels on this
#14
the barbarian
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 324
Likes: 2
From: Evanston, IL
Bikes: Independent Fabrications Crown Jewel, Surly Steamroller(FG), Abici Podium (road)
please take a few pictures of your cable setup (especially from the cable stops on the down tube and under the BB shell). This may help in the diagnosis of your issues. Otherwise, you should just bring it to a shop and show you how to fix it (a GOOD mechanic, not a shop like Performance or something)
I have dura ace 7700, with standard jagwire cables and housing, and I have very little friction. New DA with nokon should have almost no friction (though there will always be some that you will feel, unless you get DI2 which you wouldn't feel the friction through your hand).
I have dura ace 7700, with standard jagwire cables and housing, and I have very little friction. New DA with nokon should have almost no friction (though there will always be some that you will feel, unless you get DI2 which you wouldn't feel the friction through your hand).
#17
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
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Well, after 2 weeks of troubleshooting, here's what I came up with;
- On the first picture above, you can see that the cable of the FD goes into a rubber housing, then onto the plastic part attached to the frame. I rode 2 times in the wet, and the rubber housing in which the cable slides caught some water + dirt; this completely increased friction whithin the cable housing.
I removed the cable, cleaned and greased everything and all came back to normal, even though the cable movement is not as silky smooth as described by xdrmusclex.
- Also, which is even more surprising: the design of the FD shifting is so that when you push the lever to go on the big chainring, there is a mechanism where the FD sort of clicks into its outer position. The trick is, if the FD cable is too tight, the FD won't engage (or click into position); it will just put the chain on the outer ring, and return towards the BB, sticking onto the chain.
Loosen the FD cable and shifting becomes perfect.
This is no where written!
Anyway, all sorted now, except for my personal doubts about the design and distortion of the FD cable under the BB shell. A more straight routing would have been smoother, design-wise.
- On the first picture above, you can see that the cable of the FD goes into a rubber housing, then onto the plastic part attached to the frame. I rode 2 times in the wet, and the rubber housing in which the cable slides caught some water + dirt; this completely increased friction whithin the cable housing.
I removed the cable, cleaned and greased everything and all came back to normal, even though the cable movement is not as silky smooth as described by xdrmusclex.
- Also, which is even more surprising: the design of the FD shifting is so that when you push the lever to go on the big chainring, there is a mechanism where the FD sort of clicks into its outer position. The trick is, if the FD cable is too tight, the FD won't engage (or click into position); it will just put the chain on the outer ring, and return towards the BB, sticking onto the chain.
Loosen the FD cable and shifting becomes perfect.
This is no where written!
Anyway, all sorted now, except for my personal doubts about the design and distortion of the FD cable under the BB shell. A more straight routing would have been smoother, design-wise.
#18
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 312
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Re: the cable routing at the bottom bracket - I wouldn't oil the plastic sleeve in that area. It will get contaminated in one ride as the oil will just attract the dirt. Keep it oil free and I'm sure you'll see improved results.
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