Lose the saddle bag for the photo, but in all practicality, the arundel dual is a smokin' hot saddle bag.

Also, for what its worth, the blue diamondback is a fantastic color - I like it a lot. With proper staging and a couple of different components, it'd look really nice.

Haha :)
Very well said!
I agree.

...and Simon and Gordon know what they're talking about.

My only qualm is the zero-setback and saddle that's still slammed all the way forward - while I think that it's asinine to not make allowances for individual fit, those allowances don't extend to the point where it's appears that one is simply on the wrong frame, either because of size or intent; IOW, it makes me think that it's not quite the right frame for you - is the ST angle unusually slack or something?

nice built.
the way the saddle is position looks like, you can use a shorter stem.

[QUOTE=bigfred;15995904]Given my input, it's probably only fair that I submit my ride latest ride for consideration:

[IMG]http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2404d71c.jpg[/IMG]

Overall nice looking build. Agree with prior comments that the saddle slammed forward look odd. Only other comment is on the freakishly long crank arms ... Herman Munster ish.

[QUOTE=Grambo;15996992]They probably explain one another. Regular length crank arms would probably result in a saddle not slammed forward.

Though the saddle slamming could just be the angle of the pic...

love those satin CAAD's

I hear exactly what you are saying. From an optical stand point, it's simply an illusion that the saddle is slammed forward. In reality it is moved back as far as the manufacturer's indicated limits. I've removed the saddle bag attachment to eliminate its role in this illusion. But, yes, I concur that it doesn't "look right".
(please pardon the poor focus)
[IMG]http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/...pse7e19c4a.jpg[/IMG]

From a purely aesthetic point, what really bugs me even more is that less than <3mm of nose down adjustment looks like so much more on this saddle. All I can attribute that to is that the nose actually starts to roll down from a point reasonably far aft.


Agreed. However, Hot or Not isn't about functionality beyond being able to pedal the thing. In this regard morphology somtimes doesn't align with aesthetics. I'll deal with the degree to which this may or may not be the "right" or "wrong" frame later.

Historically, as frame size has increased designers have usually lessened seat tube angle. Whether this is in order to accomodate additional top tube length without stretching front center or in an effort to keep close to KOPS is somewhat irrelevant. Instead of the normal 73-73.5deg., you would normally see 72-72.5 on frames of such size and still see someone like myself with their knee significantly ahead of pedal spindle with standard 180mm cranks. My morphology is a bit screwy. I'm tall, with a long inseam and moderately short torso. But, without arms to match my legs. Additionally, I have more of my inseam distributed to my tib/fib/shin than my femur.

So, yes the seat tube is slack. Approx. 72-72.5deg.

The classic resonse to this observation would be. No. Stem length should not be used to compensate for incorrect saddle position. But, in the current day when more people recognize that you can rotate the angles around the BB, there might be some value to this. However. See my previous point about the optical illusion of the saddle being forward in the clamp. It is in fact, full aft.

Saddle setback is currently 81mm. Which using my measurements in the competitive cyclist calculator would put it right in the range they would suggest for a french fit, a bit less than an Eddy fit and a bit more than a comp fit. Consider, also, that is using the elevated BB as the measuring point. If one were to extend the seattube/BB down to a more traditional position it would also be slightly further foward, increasing the distance.

Complete Herman Munster. 6'5" (used to be taller before compressing a couple discs), size 16 feet, massive barrel shaped rib cage (awesome tidal volume:-).

The top tube is too long. The stem is about right to 10mm long. For as low as I have the bars (130mm drop) I would benefit from 10mm less reach. If they were 10mm higher, I think the reach would be about right. It does stretch me forward just slightly. But, I prefer that to having knee/elbow overlap.

I was willing to go for the second hand custom frame to try the long cranks and I'm glad that I did before investing in a made to measure frame for myself. I'm learning tons about my fit. Some of it counter intuitive from what I would have thought. If your interested in following my fit saga further keep your eyes on the "fit my bike" forum or the C&A forum. In the next week or so I'll have the new bicycle torture chamber up to photographic standards and am about to start working on my fit. Moving it away from the curent dimensions which were largely moved across from a previous bike. And, toward attempting to optimize my fit for the long cranks and the frame which has 15-20mm more top tube than I would probably specify. However, I don't think less top tube would see my saddle to BB position change considerable. Just that I might spec a steeper seat tube and use a set back post for a more conventional aesthetic look.

So, in conclussion: Yes, the slack seat tube neccessitates the use of a zero setback post. But, the saddle is aft on that post, despite appearances. That slack seat tube also contributes to a top tube measurement that sounds too long. But, if one were to increase the seat tube angle to conventional standards, allowing for the use of a 16-20mm setback post, it would shorten the effective top tube to what would be very close to ideal proportions for me (+/- 5mm). If you calculate for effective front center/reach using Zinn's or Comp Cyclists formulas they arrive at values very close to the current setup.

On the subjecting of attempting to make it "hot": First would of course be elimination of the 13mm of spacers from below the stem. Second the wheels would have to get swapped out for something with some budget curb appeal. HED Belgium C2s or Pacenti SL23s with alloy nipples and aero spokes laced to a reasonably priced but lighter set of hubs. Ditch the very capable GP4Seasons for some 25/28mm Schwalbe ZXs. A frame geometry change would be neccessary to allow the use of a setback post. But, I agree, setback posts due have a better conventional aesthetic. Maybe some cheap chinese carbon cages? Anyone have anything else in mind that would improve her curb appeal?

As said before, larger frames are already at a disadvantage. You cant help that you are so tall. As far aesthetics goes, I would agree on some better looking bottle cages. I have had great performance out of my cheap $11 carbon cages that weigh in at 20g/cage. Couple other things come to mind for aesthetics are black brake calipers, different seat post and black crank arms. None of these suggestions will improve any kind of performance though (I guess brake calipers may make them better or worse depending on what you have and what you purchased). I say different sea post because I dislike how yours flares out at the top to the saddle rails. I would prefer something like a thomson zero setback, ritchey zero or something a like.

I'm not a fan of the white brake hoods. Also, a dark crank would match better, the silver sticks out. Nice looking bike overall.

Love the challenge of building up a hot bike for less, although I agree that it shouldn't be too hard to put something together for less than 2K. That being said, I just added up mine and was surprised to hit $1,952! I need to work harder to find bargains...

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=337965http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=337966http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=337967
2012 Scott CR-1 frame, $600 on eBay, Hed Ardennes with Conti GP4000s, $495, plus the rest of the bits got me to the total. Rides very smoothly, lacks a little snap compared to my Orbea Opal, but still a fun bike. Looking forward to the feedback...

very nice. down the road, a different color seatpost and saddle...and maybe some silver bartape.



the new Sora shifters are really solid. im going to pick some up for an old 9 speed bike.

Thanks, man. I really can't say enough good things about the 3500 shifters. Huge improvement over its predecessor. If for nothing else, they got rid of the thumb shifters, but also the ergonomics were improved as well as the shorter lever action and better braking.

This was the best price I could find online (that wasn't a Taiwanese ebayer):
http://www.aawyeah.com/shimano-sora-...sti-lever-set/

The site looks a bit suspect but there are a few threads on mtbr with a ton of people with good experiences with them. Whenever I'm in doubt I use paypal, anyway. I used coupon code AAWYEAH12 to knock off like 4 bucks (not much but better than nothing). Package came quick, too, only took 2 days.

Not a shill, just trying to hook up my 41 brosefs.

http://i.imgur.com/xQY5cg4.jpg

2013 Felt Z4(size 54) with Shimano RS-81 C35 wheelset. Considering a DI2 or other groupset next but it rides great with the 105 right now. Picking up some ContiGP4000s tires pretty soon for the wheels. It's a work in progress so any criticism/comments are welcome! I don't have a garage door so this will have to do :)

The seat isn't that far off, consider the fact he has to run a ton of seat post, as do I, you get setback as a result as the seat post is on an angle back over the crank. It took me a bit to figure out the saddle fit for me at 37" bike inseam on too small a frame, and part of it was that the build came with an offset post..changing to a zero offset got me sorted out. Follow the line of the seat tube in my pic, the seat is slammed forward, with the zero offset I'm about 1cm forward of the center of the rails now. Nearly the same position in the end.

I'm more surprised you can tolerate the bars drop, heh, with my flexibility I can't so I have a steerer extension now as well.

Here's my ride before the zero offset and the riser. I've got new bars that are deeper drop and larger hooks coming too, so I'll get another pic at some point with the more current configuration.

Being tall sucks for a few things, clothes, shoes, and bicycles. I did this build to try and save cash on a full custom as a last ditch but I'm discovering that a full geo custom may be in the cards for next year.

http://kingsqueak.s3.amazonaws.com/f...ly_park_sm.jpg

I like the color theme but its a not for me.

Aesthetically I think the stem being on such a high stack but flipped is weird. I don't like line of the top tube and then the line of then stem angled down. I would drop it down 20mm and then get a -6 degree stem to help with that line. Just a thought. Saddle tipped down a fair amount also. I'm using the lines in the brick for comparison, so its not just the angle of the top tube or picture. Stage your wheels.

Thanks for the input. I agree for the most part. The bike is on a slight incline so it does look like the seat is angled down more than it is, but it could be bumped up a notch. I plan on changing out the stem and dropping it down a bit and making it more even with the top tube. Will align the new tires to the wheels where it needs to be. Btw you're like the Simon Cowell of hot or not, nothing gets by you :D

;) Ride that thang hard man and have fun!

Ultimately will put on a set of 3T Accelero 40 on it, but don't have the tires for them yet. And that RD housing loop could be a bit shorter. I'll pick up a touch over a 1lb with the other wheels, but overall not too bad for Al frame/components. http://jkuper.smugmug.com/photos/i-x...xSPsST6-XL.jpghttp://jkuper.smugmug.com/photos/i-8...-8R2QxDq-L.jpg

Whats up with the spokes?

Paint job is too busy for me.
Powder blue, black would work for me, sort of Team Quickstep "ish".

Is that a Venge, or a Allez E5?

Carbon/Kevlar continuous spoke http://www.topolinotech.com/products/cx20.php