For the love of English 3 speeds...
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
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Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
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I converted the headlamp from two D batteries and a flashlight bulb to two four Li-Ion 18500 cells to power a single LED bulb at a nominal 7.4v. It will stay lit at just about full brightness for well over 24 hours.
The best part is that the battery style light can be taken from bike to bike and it doesn't require the drag of a generator or a Dynohub..
The best part is that the battery style light can be taken from bike to bike and it doesn't require the drag of a generator or a Dynohub..
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I then painted the inside of the can to prevent any rust.
The original bulb was blown, but I couldn't find a suitable LED bulb in a threaded base so I took the bulb apart and attached an LED marker lamp bulb to the threaded base just to see what happens.
The result was a very direct, but fairly bright beam. The LED was running at the low end of its ability to light at 3v with two D batteries. The ideal voltage would be 6-12v without changing the internal resistor in the bulb.
My next step was to just take two 18500 Li-Ion batteries, which I made to fit using two adapters made from PVC tubing and a couple aluminum slugs to adjust the length. The batteries just slide down into the tube and the tube with the battery slips into the battery holder. This gave me a steady 7.5v and better light.
I was going to make up a four battery pack and shoot for closer to 12v but figured if I do that I may as well go with an LED H4 bulb instead and have real light.
As far as recharging, I just pop the batteries out and charge them as I would any other Li Ion battery. They last a long time, so if after every ride I return the batteries to the charger, it works out fine. With the small bulb, battery life would likely be longer than one full night with the 18500 batteries. Maybe several nights of good lighting. My test using two used D batteries kept the homemade bulb lit for 3 days straight and it was still lit but flickering by the fourth night.
18500/18650, and 26650 batteries are all nominally 3.7v, with a charge limit around 4.2v or so on a smart charger.
26650 batteries would have been ideal but they're too tall to fit in place of the D batteries, but if in a holder, they could be made to work sitting sideways with two leads.
I didn't take any pics of the bulb apart because I really didn't think it would work, but it did.
The downfall to an LED bulb like this is that its directional and it doesn't take full effect of the reflector that well.
A COB circuit with multiple LEDs would work better, I was thinking about maybe a set of LED fog light bulbs but my thought there is that I may has well just use a fog light and make a proper mount for it.
I am working on putting an LED H3 bulb into a vintage headlight for an old balloon tire bike. The key with more or brighter lights is being able to run modern batteries and more voltage.
Below is a pic of the homemade LED bulb lit with two D cells in the original configuration. (I call it sufficient lighting, and its likely twice as bright as the original bulb ever was but it could be better.)
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SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
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Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
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18500/18650, and 26650 batteries are all nominally 3.7v, with a charge limit around 4.2v or so on a smart charger.
26650 batteries would have been ideal but they're too tall to fit in place of the D batteries, but if in a holder, they could be made to work sitting sideways with two leads.
The key with more or brighter lights is being able to run modern batteries and more voltage.
Below is a pic of the homemade LED bulb lit with two D cells in the original configuration. (I call it sufficient lighting, and its likely twice as bright as the original bulb ever was but it could be better.)
26650 batteries would have been ideal but they're too tall to fit in place of the D batteries, but if in a holder, they could be made to work sitting sideways with two leads.
The key with more or brighter lights is being able to run modern batteries and more voltage.
Below is a pic of the homemade LED bulb lit with two D cells in the original configuration. (I call it sufficient lighting, and its likely twice as bright as the original bulb ever was but it could be better.)
I did put in a screw base LED flashlight bulb in one but as you say the directionality doesn't make good use of the reflector and voltage. I basically use it for the "vintage accessory look" and a "be seen" light and mount a magicshine when riding at night where I need to actually see.
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That's pretty much the deal here too.
If i want to see where I'm going at night, I've got a modern flashlight that uses two 26650 batteries that lights up things like it was daylight. It'll stay lit for about 6 hours before recharge.
I rarely ride at night, if I do, its not likely going to be for very long. Those days are long gone.
The Elite light conversion was more or less just to get it working, I didn't have the correct bulb and I had a box of LED bulbs for marker lights. A simply small reflector facing down on the bulb would likely make it very usable but its just as easy to put a better bulb in there, but that would mean cutting up the reflector and there would be no turning back to original. Not that those lights are anything special its still likely 50 years old or more.
I have a Lucas light that was on an old Dawes I bought years ago. it originally used a #63 bulb. The inside of the light is shot, someone tried to rig the wrong bulb into tit before for more light and failed, so anything I do is an improvement. I was thinking about modifying an LED fog light bulb to work. but they also make a bulb that will fit the original socket that's meant for vintage 6v cars.
They're cheap, but I'm not sure if they'll do any better since there's no reflector element with a flat face LED.
If i want to see where I'm going at night, I've got a modern flashlight that uses two 26650 batteries that lights up things like it was daylight. It'll stay lit for about 6 hours before recharge.
I rarely ride at night, if I do, its not likely going to be for very long. Those days are long gone.
The Elite light conversion was more or less just to get it working, I didn't have the correct bulb and I had a box of LED bulbs for marker lights. A simply small reflector facing down on the bulb would likely make it very usable but its just as easy to put a better bulb in there, but that would mean cutting up the reflector and there would be no turning back to original. Not that those lights are anything special its still likely 50 years old or more.
I have a Lucas light that was on an old Dawes I bought years ago. it originally used a #63 bulb. The inside of the light is shot, someone tried to rig the wrong bulb into tit before for more light and failed, so anything I do is an improvement. I was thinking about modifying an LED fog light bulb to work. but they also make a bulb that will fit the original socket that's meant for vintage 6v cars.
They're cheap, but I'm not sure if they'll do any better since there's no reflector element with a flat face LED.
On the road
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I'm also a big fan of LED conversions for vintage and retro lights. I have a B&M Lumotec Classic and dynohub on one bike, and another has the Reflectalite conversion for dynohub and original lamps to LED. I also have a bunch of bikes with the Soma/Kiley retro headlight and taillight LEDs that take batteries. Unless you are set on going dead-stock with original bulbs and all, the modern LED conversions and bulbs offer a huge improvement in being able to see and being able to have cars see you on the road. This is a big deal not just if you ride at night, but also in the morning and in the evening when there's daylight, but you really want to stand out so drivers can see you.
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
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https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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Phyllo-buster
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^ That’s kludgalistic!
Happy With My Bikes
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What the hell is going on with the water bottle on the seat tube?
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"It is the unknown around the corner that turns my wheels." -- Heinz Stücke
"It is the unknown around the corner that turns my wheels." -- Heinz Stücke
Not so New
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You can see the blue button on the the other side of the stem, and the black horn below.
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I see a double chainset, and one of the better kickstands in the lower right of that box. I just wonder if the shingles are part of the package deal, given the assortment. Definitely worth the ask.
Last edited by BFisher; 02-22-22 at 09:15 AM.
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The ad has been taken down. Unfortunate, since I'm 10 minutes away and could use that fender, if not other parts as well.
On the road
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Came in the mail recently: a bit of old advertising material for a 1950s diamond frame Schwinn World. These English-style bikes were "lightweights" in the Schwinn line up.
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
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I'm also a big fan of LED conversions for vintage and retro lights. I have a B&M Lumotec Classic and dynohub on one bike, and another has the Reflectalite conversion for dynohub and original lamps to LED. I also have a bunch of bikes with the Soma/Kiley retro headlight and taillight LEDs that take batteries. Unless you are set on going dead-stock with original bulbs and all, the modern LED conversions and bulbs offer a huge improvement in being able to see and being able to have cars see you on the road. This is a big deal not just if you ride at night, but also in the morning and in the evening when there's daylight, but you really want to stand out so drivers can see you.
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I'm using Nicelite NL432 front and NL437R rear LED bulbs in my 51 Rudge's Dynohub system. I highly recommend them. Since the 437R is actually red, it makes up for the faded plastic lens on the rear lamp. Quite bright too. I didn't install a capacitor to smooth out the strobe effect. It's not noticeable at speed, but walking the bike up a hill on a dark country road at night can be a bit...trippy.
https://www.reflectalite.com/LEDpage.html
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Last edited by SirMike1983; 02-22-22 at 09:33 PM.
Newbie
My old bike!
hey nlerner,
did you buy that from me?
do you know where it is now? I’d love to have it again.
thanks
did you buy that from me?
do you know where it is now? I’d love to have it again.
thanks
I can confirm that both bikes have EA3--26 x 1 3/8" wheels (with the men's rear, at least, not original) with Dunlop tires all around. Perhaps the originals?!
I find it interesting, too, that while the men's frame certainly has more slack angles than later models, they are still a fair amount more upright than an early 1930s Sports that I had for a while:
I find it interesting, too, that while the men's frame certainly has more slack angles than later models, they are still a fair amount more upright than an early 1930s Sports that I had for a while:
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Newbie
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Rex Classique
I bought these maybe 15 years ago new in the box. 1974 date code on the SA rear hubs. Unusual, in that they were built for 27" wheels. The tall one is mine. 25" frame.
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Retroman57, they are in such great condition. Are those saddles Brooks Flyer S?
Last edited by 1989Pre; 02-26-22 at 06:05 AM.
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Elswick
Just took the Elswick light roadster out for a spin. Thought I would take some photos while I have it out in the sun.
A shout-out to SirMike. The Chain case fits and really dresses up the bike.
A shout-out to SirMike. The Chain case fits and really dresses up the bike.
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TigerTom
TigerTom
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Glad it fits. Looks like it came together as a really nice bike.
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
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Wrights saddles