I'm rebuilding a 80's 10 speed and converting it to a single speed. This is my first time doing either. During assembly I noticed the chainline is off but I'm not sure how to correct it. There are not enough threads to space the freewheel out much, should I swap the axle spacers around to move the whole wheel to the right or is there a better way to do it? I kept the original one piece crank and it's set about as far inward as it can before the chainring tries to hit the frame.

I'd appreciate any tips, tricks or advice. Thanks

Chainline isn't a huge issue if it isn't throwing off the chain or causing binding on drive train movement. Yours doesn't look amazing but it if pedals without binding and throwing the chain off then you should be fine. Single speed conversions on wheels that were set up for 5 or 6 gear freewheels generally aren't likely to have a pretty chainline with the wheel centered.

However, you could center the dishing of the wheel and the spacing on the axle.

Some company makes a spacer especially for this purpose. Can't recall who but it solves this exact problem. There's another special single freewheel that solves the same problem to.

Like this. There are others to:

https://www.amazon.com/Cyclingdeal-C.../dp/B006WRW45O


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Being an old ten speed, I'll guess it's a 3/32" chain you're re-using. An 1/8" chain may help your problem, too. Can't really tell from the pic, but if the difference is huge you'll need to do something in the back there... respace, re-dish?

Thank you for the replies.

North Coast Joe, the SS specific chain ring and freewheel I bought are 3/32, so I also bought a SS specific 3/32 chain for it.

There does seem to be a little binding and I think the chainline is a little worse than it looks in the picture. I guess I'll see if it can be re-dished enough, or else look for another hub to lace in.

Drlogik, I believe the link you provided is for a cassette and wouldn't work for a freewheel.

How tight is the chain tension? Maybe show more images from different angles.

Chain feels pretty tight but has a little more than 1/4" or so of movement.
Here's a couple more pictures.

Yes, the link I provided is for a cassette but I think somebody makes one for a freewheel too. Or, do what I did when I turned my old Raleigh Wyoming into a single months back, just use the feewheel that was on the wheel. Line up the chain with the most in-line cog and bingo. The cool thing about that method is if you decide to go back to a multi-speed bike, all you have to do is lengthen the chain. If you start messing with the wheel dish or the like then going back is a harder option. Ultimately I took my Wyoming back to a multi-speed bike and it remains so today with no ill effect.

What I meant is the 1/8" chain will work on your 3/32" gears and give a little room laterally if one's chain line isn't perfect.

Actually, you've it backwards. A 3/32" chain will have a lot more lateral (sideways) flexibility than a 1/8" chain, so it will be a lot more forgiving of a poor chainline.

I've seen worse chainlines on conversions, but bust out a ruler and measure it if you want actionable data: All About Bicycle Chainline

Way too tight. Way way too tight.

Wow, look at that. We can agree on something!

We'd probably also agree that his rear valve stem is experiencing great pain.

You don't even know how many of those I have had to adjust...

Well there's no air in either tube, both tubes leak as fast as I can pump. Once I get the chainline situated (I've decided I want this to be my good-weather-commuter so I want the chainline as good as I can get it) then I'll get new tubes and tires.

Thanks for the heads up on the tension, first time since I was a kid messing with a single speed.

Highly doubt anyone makes that for freewheel but I was wrong before