Do It Yourself (DIY)
02-16-07, 07:21 AM
#101
spin
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Champaign, IL
Posts: 1,170
Bikes: raleigh m-60, azonic steelhead, schwinn world sport fixed gear
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by hockeyteeth
I wanted to polish some aluminum parts recently but was told they were not anodized, even though they look exactly like the stem Jol used. I was instructed to buff them with Scotch-Brite (Scotch-Brite is the green abrasive surface on the back of a kitchen sponge) and then polish them with Aluminum polish. Well, the Scotch-Brite totally ****ed up the finish on the parts and the Al polish barely did anything. They all just look like brushed aluminum now and I'm super-pissed. Later, I tried polishing an area I hadn't used Scotch-Brite on and it was reflective as a mirror after some polishing... WTF?!
I guess my question is: How does the oven cleaner not destroy the finish under the anodization? And do you think I should try the oven cleaner method first and then polish them up again?
I guess my question is: How does the oven cleaner not destroy the finish under the anodization? And do you think I should try the oven cleaner method first and then polish them up again?
there is no finish under the anodization that is bare aluminum....anodiaztion is basically a controlled oxidation that sometimes you can add colors into...the oven cleaner will remove all that and leave you with bare metal
this is my understanding of the system, but i may not be 100% correct...probably close enough
02-16-07, 03:21 PM
#102
Paste Taster
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 4,392
Bikes: , Jury Bike, Moto Outcast 29, Spicer standard track frame and spicer custom steel sprint frame.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
hey has anyone done a pedal re build yet I am about to do one and need to take photos and post instructions if not
02-16-07, 03:57 PM
#103
blah
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 5,573
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
3 Posts
be the one to do it, retem, i could use that info for sure. overhauling pedals is one of the few procedures ive not done to my bike.
02-16-07, 04:10 PM
#104
dutret has a posse
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: washington dc
Posts: 3,155
Bikes: IRO Angus 53, Marinoni Special 54, LMNO Custom Road Bike, Guerciotti TT, Late 60s Bottechia Road, Univega Via Montega beater/polo/rain bike.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
There is a tutorial on how to repack MKS Sylvans. I don't remember who did it, but its somewhere in this thread I think.
02-16-07, 04:27 PM
#105
Paste Taster
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 4,392
Bikes: , Jury Bike, Moto Outcast 29, Spicer standard track frame and spicer custom steel sprint frame.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
ok first put on a pot of coffee
second get every thing you need nearby
loosen and remove dust cap
man these bearings are dry (probably haven't seen day light since the factory)
now remove the lock nut
now remove the bearing cone
spindle is out catch the bearing seperate the inside and out side bearings
second get every thing you need nearby
loosen and remove dust cap
man these bearings are dry (probably haven't seen day light since the factory)
now remove the lock nut
now remove the bearing cone
spindle is out catch the bearing seperate the inside and out side bearings
02-16-07, 04:35 PM
#106
Paste Taster
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 4,392
Bikes: , Jury Bike, Moto Outcast 29, Spicer standard track frame and spicer custom steel sprint frame.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
dirty parts get clean (use pint thinner or a degreaser or wd40) whipe all excess cleaner away
dob the bearings in grease with a paper clip (I use white lithium because it is cheap water and scorch resistant)
and into the cups
the spindle goes in
repeat on the outboard and set the cone race
dob the bearings in grease with a paper clip (I use white lithium because it is cheap water and scorch resistant)
and into the cups
the spindle goes in
repeat on the outboard and set the cone race
02-16-07, 04:37 PM
#107
Paste Taster
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 4,392
Bikes: , Jury Bike, Moto Outcast 29, Spicer standard track frame and spicer custom steel sprint frame.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
now set the lock nut (I use some blue locktight on the threads for a little added safety but only on the lock nut!!!)
sorry so image heavy but they really help thanks to my soon to be sold kkt top runs for lending themselves to this project and thanks for not deleting it not bad for 20 year od track pedals
pm me if you want em
sorry so image heavy but they really help thanks to my soon to be sold kkt top runs for lending themselves to this project and thanks for not deleting it not bad for 20 year od track pedals
pm me if you want em
02-18-07, 08:03 PM
#108
Beautiful Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Pittsburgh PA
Posts: 653
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Nice. Hey Retem - please explain how you made the cottered crankarm chainwhip you were showing off way back when. What did you use to attach the chain to the arm? I can't figure it out....
02-18-07, 08:05 PM
#109
hateful little monkey
Join Date: May 2003
Location: oakland, ca
Posts: 5,274
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
That's an awesome coffeepot.
02-18-07, 08:27 PM
#110
Paste Taster
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 4,392
Bikes: , Jury Bike, Moto Outcast 29, Spicer standard track frame and spicer custom steel sprint frame.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I will post pics but I filed down two quick links see below for my op
Last edited by Retem; 02-18-07 at 09:31 PM.
02-18-07, 08:28 PM
#111
Paste Taster
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 4,392
Bikes: , Jury Bike, Moto Outcast 29, Spicer standard track frame and spicer custom steel sprint frame.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by jim-bob
That's an awesome coffeepot.
02-18-07, 09:30 PM
#112
Paste Taster
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 4,392
Bikes: , Jury Bike, Moto Outcast 29, Spicer standard track frame and spicer custom steel sprint frame.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
This is straight out of my junk bin but it looks and works nice here it is
1. old cottered crank arm left
2. spare bits of chain 1/8" is nice
3. 3/32" drill bit and 1/4" drill bit
4. quick links cuz I am lazy
voila!!
1. old cottered crank arm left
2. spare bits of chain 1/8" is nice
3. 3/32" drill bit and 1/4" drill bit
4. quick links cuz I am lazy
voila!!
02-19-07, 09:42 PM
#113
Beautiful Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Pittsburgh PA
Posts: 653
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Ok, think I got it - did you drill a hole opposite the cotter pin hole with the bit, then run the quick link through the original and drilled holes? What are the two bits for?
02-19-07, 10:14 PM
#114
Look ma...no brakes!
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tallahassee
Posts: 399
Bikes: Locally built track bike, Kona mtb, Giant Road Bike, Soon to be Surly LHT Tourer!
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
yea, i'm kind of confused by it too.
02-20-07, 12:13 AM
#115
Paste Taster
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 4,392
Bikes: , Jury Bike, Moto Outcast 29, Spicer standard track frame and spicer custom steel sprint frame.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
used the cotter pin hole drilled two holes into it I use two bits because the metal is pretty hard and it is better to do it this way it makes your drill and your bit last longer
02-20-07, 06:32 PM
#116
Beautiful Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Pittsburgh PA
Posts: 653
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Gotcha. Weekend project, ahoy!
02-20-07, 07:35 PM
#117
Paste Taster
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 4,392
Bikes: , Jury Bike, Moto Outcast 29, Spicer standard track frame and spicer custom steel sprint frame.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
let me know how it goes
02-20-07, 09:13 PM
#118
Taking "s" outta "Fast"
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Zoo York City
Posts: 1,989
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
dude, macro setting when you're taking up close pics.
02-21-07, 02:27 AM
#119
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 95
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks Queerpunk
The process is a lot more simple then expected. I had a hard time removing the outer cone due to the funny head shape. I ended up using a flat head inserted half way into one of the indents (MKS). I am a little nervous i didnt re-tighten the nut atop the cone enough but better less then too much. Thanks.
02-21-07, 01:15 PM
#120
Paste Taster
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 4,392
Bikes: , Jury Bike, Moto Outcast 29, Spicer standard track frame and spicer custom steel sprint frame.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by AfterThisNap
dude, macro setting when you're taking up close pics.
Originally Posted by clayborne
The process is a lot more simple then expected. I had a hard time removing the outer cone due to the funny head shape. I ended up using a flat head inserted half way into one of the indents (MKS). I am a little nervous i didnt re-tighten the nut atop the cone enough but better less then too much. Thanks.
02-21-07, 02:05 PM
#121
Banned.
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: philly
Posts: 994
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by ryand
a phil wood suicide hub.
and i thought i had heard it all.
you guys could probably sell that and get a decent track/fixed specific hub.
edit: yes i know its not as easy, but i'm just saying. probably because i'm an ass.
and i thought i had heard it all.
you guys could probably sell that and get a decent track/fixed specific hub.
edit: yes i know its not as easy, but i'm just saying. probably because i'm an ass.
Yes, it could be sold... And yes, it could be replaced with a track hub. But then that'd be too easy, much less fun, and unworthy of a post in the DIY thread.
...besides, there's nothing quite like running brakeless with a hub that could (in theory, and if we hadn't applied a lockring and plenty of red loctite) toss your cog right off any ol' time.
02-21-07, 08:19 PM
#122
not actually Nickatina
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: OR
Posts: 4,447
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by djembob02
You're right its actually really easy. I found that even if an old wheel is very fubar it still isn't rocket science. Just be sure you know which way is tightening, which is loosening. Also use a good spoke wrench. The first time I did this I used a real cheap wrench that has 12 or so different sizes. The smallest size was not small enough for the nipples. This meant that I rounded many of them. If I remember right, you would turn your spoke wrench counterclockwise. Here's a step by step
1. Check the wheel, make sure it seems to be in good structural shape. Make sure no spokes are broke, might as well check the hub.
2. Especially on an old wheel. put a small drop of thin oil (transmission fluid or some all purpose lubricant) on each spoke. spin the wheel so that the oil goes into the nipple threads. This step is to prevent the spoke from braking or stripping.
3. If you don't have a trueing stand (I don't) put the wheel on the bike and turn the bike over. If you have a brake tighten the brake so that it barely touches the wheel. If there's no brake, you can clamp something to the fork/seat stay that sticks out. You could even do something crude like rubber banding a pen (with cap on) to the bike. Adjust it so that it barely touches the rim. (the easiest way to detect it is to listen for when the wheel is rubbing.)
4. Spin the wheel. In the spot where it hits the pen/brake/whatever, tighten the spoke on the opposite side. Also note that if you have to make significant changes, you will likely need to loosen the other spoke. For example, if the wheel is wobbly to the right, you would tighten the left spoke and loosen the right. Only make small changes, half a turn at a time.
5. After the correction, spin the wheel. If it still rubs, do it again. If it rubs somewhere else on the wheel, do it there.
6. After the wheel doesn't rub, tighten the brake or move the pen closer, Repeat previous steps.
7. Keep doing this until the wheel is true.
8. Adjust the brake back to normal, or remove the pen.
To redish the wheel, maybe to improve chainline or to use a "suicide" hub. loosen all the spokes on one side one turn, tighten all the spokes on the opposite one turn. This will move the whole rim a small amount. Then true the wheel as desribed. If it needs to go over more, do it again.
Hope this helps, it really isn't that hard. Sorry I don't have any pics. If nobody else posts some, I can probably add some tommorrow night. I don't think my wheels need it, but I can demonstrate anyway.
1. Check the wheel, make sure it seems to be in good structural shape. Make sure no spokes are broke, might as well check the hub.
2. Especially on an old wheel. put a small drop of thin oil (transmission fluid or some all purpose lubricant) on each spoke. spin the wheel so that the oil goes into the nipple threads. This step is to prevent the spoke from braking or stripping.
3. If you don't have a trueing stand (I don't) put the wheel on the bike and turn the bike over. If you have a brake tighten the brake so that it barely touches the wheel. If there's no brake, you can clamp something to the fork/seat stay that sticks out. You could even do something crude like rubber banding a pen (with cap on) to the bike. Adjust it so that it barely touches the rim. (the easiest way to detect it is to listen for when the wheel is rubbing.)
4. Spin the wheel. In the spot where it hits the pen/brake/whatever, tighten the spoke on the opposite side. Also note that if you have to make significant changes, you will likely need to loosen the other spoke. For example, if the wheel is wobbly to the right, you would tighten the left spoke and loosen the right. Only make small changes, half a turn at a time.
5. After the correction, spin the wheel. If it still rubs, do it again. If it rubs somewhere else on the wheel, do it there.
6. After the wheel doesn't rub, tighten the brake or move the pen closer, Repeat previous steps.
7. Keep doing this until the wheel is true.
8. Adjust the brake back to normal, or remove the pen.
To redish the wheel, maybe to improve chainline or to use a "suicide" hub. loosen all the spokes on one side one turn, tighten all the spokes on the opposite one turn. This will move the whole rim a small amount. Then true the wheel as desribed. If it needs to go over more, do it again.
Hope this helps, it really isn't that hard. Sorry I don't have any pics. If nobody else posts some, I can probably add some tommorrow night. I don't think my wheels need it, but I can demonstrate anyway.
Also, when the spoke is on the top of the wheel, righty tighty and lefty loosey, correct?
02-22-07, 12:47 AM
#123
or tarckeemoon, depending
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: the pesto of cities
Posts: 7,017
Bikes: Davidson Impulse, Merckx Titanium AX, Bruce Gordon Rock & Road, Cross Check custom build, On-One Il Pomino, Shawver Cycles cross, Zion 737, Mercian Vincitore, Brompton S1L, Charge Juicer
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
02-22-07, 06:38 AM
#124
jack of one or two trades
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Suburbia, CT
Posts: 5,640
Bikes: Old-ass gearie hardtail MTB, fix-converted Centurion LeMans commuter, SS hardtail monster MTB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by andre nickatina
Also, when the spoke is on the top of the wheel, righty tighty and lefty loosey, correct?
02-22-07, 08:34 AM
#125
Team Sohoku
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Not where I want to be.
Posts: 2,003
Bikes: BMC, Cannondale, '87 Nishiki Modulus, 3Rensho Keirin
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts