Do It Yourself (DIY)
#151
Hauja
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Top tube pad.
Why not jusy buy some foam pipe insulation and some duct tape.Cut out a piece place it on the top tube and wrap it with the duct tape. Done.
#152
Utilitarian Boy
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Originally Posted by James H Haury
Why not jusy buy some foam pipe insulation and some duct tape.Cut out a piece place it on the top tube and wrap it with the duct tape. Done.
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#153
monster
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Looks nice!
#155
Utilitarian Boy
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Heres a way to give your back a break from those pointy objects in your bag. I have a removable liner so this may only work with bags that have a floating liner
Foam pads and large pot holders
DSC00850.JPG
Start stackin
DSC00851.JPG
Make a sandwich
DSC00852.JPG
Look at your bag
DSC00853.JPG
Open your liner
DSC00854.JPG
Pull it out
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Stuff it in (def not an inuendo)
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After your done, push and feel your new cushion for your back
DSC00858.JPG
Foam pads and large pot holders
DSC00850.JPG
Start stackin
DSC00851.JPG
Make a sandwich
DSC00852.JPG
Look at your bag
DSC00853.JPG
Open your liner
DSC00854.JPG
Pull it out
DSC00855.JPG
Stuff it in (def not an inuendo)
DSC00856.JPG
After your done, push and feel your new cushion for your back
DSC00858.JPG
#157
sleeper class
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__________________
#159
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anybody have any ideas on aftermarket reflective tape/cloth (for a bag) that actually looks good?
I tried some tape from SprawlMart but it looked horrible and lasted for 2 days.
thanks
I tried some tape from SprawlMart but it looked horrible and lasted for 2 days.
thanks
#160
yeah soup
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You need to sew it than seal the seams and thread holes on the inside rubber cement works but if you mix a little bit of clear silicon and mineral spirits you get a nice quality seam sealer. A lot of the ultra light hiker guys use this concoction on their home made gear. This is also good if you make your own mess bags and what nots.
#161
Paste Taster
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Originally Posted by samal
anybody have any ideas on aftermarket reflective tape/cloth (for a bag) that actually looks good?
I tried some tape from SprawlMart but it looked horrible and lasted for 2 days.
thanks
I tried some tape from SprawlMart but it looked horrible and lasted for 2 days.
thanks
#162
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is it possible to make your own clipless shoes?
i have a pair of beat up pumas that i love though the soles are wearing thin. is it at all possible to rip out the soles, put a piece of plastic with a depressed cleat in, and maybe line the heal with plastic to make it a bit more sturdy?
i have a pair of beat up pumas that i love though the soles are wearing thin. is it at all possible to rip out the soles, put a piece of plastic with a depressed cleat in, and maybe line the heal with plastic to make it a bit more sturdy?
#163
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I asked the same question not too long ago and the general consensus is that stiffness of the sole would be non-existent, giving you the power transfer of a wet noodle. I'd imagine it'd be hellaciously difficult to keep the recessed cleat in place, seeing as how rubber stretches and any screws would be bound to come loose.
#164
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I was just thinking of this the other day! I would like to try to remove the rubber sole and put something stiffer in its place. I will try this soon and post results if successful.
Last edited by hockeyteeth; 03-15-07 at 06:00 PM.
#165
pompous windbag
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Question for people that have repacked bearings on MKS pedals and the like: Did your pedals ever spin slower after the overhaul? I know spinning slower doesn't mean it's gotten worse, but my left pedal feels a little gritty. I've checked the races and they seem fine. I even re-cleaned it and packed it full of grease....still not a smooth roll. Should I just tighten it down to a semi-smooth roll and hope it pans out?
#166
Paste Taster
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readjust the bearing cone
#167
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Super Sketch Double Strap Holders. So easy no beer is needed.... unless you want to.
1 Cannibalize backpack strap.
2 Cut off about an inch and a half section
3 Remove padding
4 Cut slits an thread straps
ta da!
edit:
These took me a grand total of ten min to make, and i when i tried riding them i could tell. If you do this i would suggest taking a little more time and getting the spacing down right.
1 Cannibalize backpack strap.
2 Cut off about an inch and a half section
3 Remove padding
4 Cut slits an thread straps
ta da!
edit:
These took me a grand total of ten min to make, and i when i tried riding them i could tell. If you do this i would suggest taking a little more time and getting the spacing down right.
Last edited by yellowjeep; 03-28-07 at 11:13 PM.
#169
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Pretty old...
#171
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excellent job.
#172
Banned
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Originally Posted by carleton
Added Super Sketch Double Strap Holders.
Ceiling Cat thanks you, YellowJeep.
Ceiling Cat thanks you, YellowJeep.
#173
i'd leave the sweet stuff
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Originally Posted by Son of ronex
im still laughing so hard as i type this ...lol carleton
+7. same here.
and the "omg" later made it even worse.
#174
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How to mod a Surly Tuggnut chain tensioner to work with Campy 1010 or similar horizontal dropouts
I am told that this mod is not necessary to make a Tuggnut work acceptably on horizontal dropouts, but it seems to me that it provides an extra level of security that can't hurt.
This diagram is a bit messy but clear enough I hope. The actual mod is stupidly simple when you see it in person, it's just a bit tricky to describe.
(1) shows a Tuggnut in normal operation. Note how when the track nut is tight it holds its position very securely---because the bit of metal is poking into the end of the track ends, it win't swivel up or down, and of course it can't go left or right because of the axle nut's tension. After my mod the Tuggnut is secured against up-down motion according to the same general principle, but this time by poking a much smaller piece of metal into the little hole in the back of a Campy 1010 or similar dropout, as seen in (4). (2) shows the area of the metal bit that you take off with a round file, after removing the bolt. (3) shows what the thing looks like after the mod; notice that a little knob is now sticking out. (4) demonstrates how the modded Tuggnut interfaces with the dropout's little hole. The mod works with any dropout that has a hole like this. I made sure though that the metal bit is still able to press against the back of the dropout as seen in (4) (this is the reason for the round shape I filed out), and that the little knob is not actually pressing on the inside of the hole.
(this cut off text says "you'll need to remove this little collar first")
I destroyed my retaining collar in the process of removal, so now the metal bit is free to come off the bolt. I bet I could find a new one but in practice it isn't really needed; when the wheel is off and the Tuggnut is still on the axle, gravity pulls the Tuggnut so that the bolt is pointed up and the metal bit naturally stays on.
I am told that this mod is not necessary to make a Tuggnut work acceptably on horizontal dropouts, but it seems to me that it provides an extra level of security that can't hurt.
This diagram is a bit messy but clear enough I hope. The actual mod is stupidly simple when you see it in person, it's just a bit tricky to describe.
(1) shows a Tuggnut in normal operation. Note how when the track nut is tight it holds its position very securely---because the bit of metal is poking into the end of the track ends, it win't swivel up or down, and of course it can't go left or right because of the axle nut's tension. After my mod the Tuggnut is secured against up-down motion according to the same general principle, but this time by poking a much smaller piece of metal into the little hole in the back of a Campy 1010 or similar dropout, as seen in (4). (2) shows the area of the metal bit that you take off with a round file, after removing the bolt. (3) shows what the thing looks like after the mod; notice that a little knob is now sticking out. (4) demonstrates how the modded Tuggnut interfaces with the dropout's little hole. The mod works with any dropout that has a hole like this. I made sure though that the metal bit is still able to press against the back of the dropout as seen in (4) (this is the reason for the round shape I filed out), and that the little knob is not actually pressing on the inside of the hole.
(this cut off text says "you'll need to remove this little collar first")
I destroyed my retaining collar in the process of removal, so now the metal bit is free to come off the bolt. I bet I could find a new one but in practice it isn't really needed; when the wheel is off and the Tuggnut is still on the axle, gravity pulls the Tuggnut so that the bolt is pointed up and the metal bit naturally stays on.
Last edited by mander; 04-13-07 at 02:57 PM.