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Originally Posted by jayrooney
I left the magic stick in the last photo so you can see how it was held up.
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classy pictures for a good looking bike. kind of wish i got black!
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^^^^ OH Yeah!! That's a beauty.
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oooohhh!!!
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thanks everybody!
it rides so nice too. I have so much toe overlap on my other bikes. the relaxed geometry of this bike makes it smooooooth. |
how much overlap clearance do you have? would 170 crank work? im getting the 56 group buy.
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Originally Posted by Allanbinho
(Post 4873302)
how much overlap clearance do you have? would 170 crank work? im getting the 56 group buy.
depending on the size of your clips, 170 cranks should just clear. |
Pretty basic build. Used mostly parts I already had from a beater nishiki conversion.
I'll probably put drops, and a brake on it. I rode it to work yesterday (~15 mi.) and the flat bars made my hands go numb. http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1077/...82dc4e7b78.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1199/...6f3ec2d5_o.jpg |
Originally Posted by TrevorInSoCal
(Post 4878130)
what cranks are those? |
oh man! I like it! Those look like Sugino 75... where'd you get that small chainring?
it seems that no one has any chainrings! |
They are too curvy to be 75s. Spider looks like 130bcd
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just 'cause I don't want to go through a million pages of posts...
Did we ever find out what type of dedacciai steel these bikes were |
Help!---I think I muffed up my frame. I tried to clearcoat my frame and fork last night using rattlecan rustoleum painter's touch crystal clear matte clearcoat. I followed the directions, sprayed 15 inches away, and waited 30 min between coats. I did 3 coats. When I went to check on the frame and fork this morning, the fork looks fine but the frame looks like a glazed doughnut with a white speks all over it. The frame was dry to the touch so I look a clean towel and tried rubbing the white residue off the frame; it came off in some spots but not others. I had to leave for work so i only had a few minutes to try to fix it.
What did I do wrong? Any way to remove this white crap without further screwing up the paintjob? Any suggestions would be appreciated |
Originally Posted by dcdude
(Post 4879775)
what cranks are those?
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http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...2/IMG_2101.jpg
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...2/IMG_2102.jpg Another black entry. Will be putting on a black Thompson seat post soon, and it'll be done. I also intend to get some drop bars for the occasional outing to the track. I live pretty close to the Kissena Velodrome in Queens, so there's no excuse. The bike handles great and rides really nice. Lighter and stiffer than the Miyata conversion that served me for a year. |
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Originally Posted by skanking biker
(Post 4884768)
Help!---I think I muffed up my frame. I tried to clearcoat my frame and fork last night using rattlecan rustoleum painter's touch crystal clear matte clearcoat. I followed the directions, sprayed 15 inches away, and waited 30 min between coats. I did 3 coats. When I went to check on the frame and fork this morning, the fork looks fine but the frame looks like a glazed doughnut with a white speks all over it. The frame was dry to the touch so I look a clean towel and tried rubbing the white residue off the frame; it came off in some spots but not others. I had to leave for work so i only had a few minutes to try to fix it.
What did I do wrong? Any way to remove this white crap without further screwing up the paintjob? Any suggestions would be appreciated i dunno dude. i tried to clearcoat some car wheels that i had rettlecanned matte black and the same cloudy speckly thing happened. i just repainted more matte black over them. you might not have done anything wrong, that just may be the paint. |
Originally Posted by gfrance
(Post 4893100)
Another black entry.
Looks great! it's going to look even better with the black seatpost! |
is 250 worth paying for one of these frames? because I've got one on the line and I don't want to pay much more than what th guy payed for it. Plus it's blue.
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Um, well, yeah, sure. They're a limited edition after all. :D
[i'll leave it to someone else to post the real cost] |
250 thousand dollars sound about right
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I know that they cost 150+12 shipping to Philly but the guy won't go lower.
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Originally Posted by Astronomical
(Post 4894162)
I know that they cost 150+12 shipping to Philly but the guy won't go lower.
$250 would be fair. A brand new Mark V directly from IRO would be $250. |
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