https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAl_5...eature=related

This is for a road bike, but we couldn't probably do the Keirin style which is ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVbwngNoHm0

And, you have to worry about shoulders according to some video there. Shouldn't be hunched over and stuff.

P.S. Expertvillage ones are totally unreliable. They could be right, but doesn't have the information we actually need.

Nice bike!

"...notice something OBVIOUSLY wrong from the pictures"?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HSmlViXU9AA

Raise the saddle, get a longer stem.

I agree that most of expertvillage's videos are totally pointless and don't help, but that one by performance cycle really helps.
And what difference would the road bike fit make? I doubt he's going to ride that in the velodrome (or am I wrong? ) which is why a "road" fit would certainly apply in his situation. (and I bet 99% of SSFG members do just ride their bikes on the streets.)

Although there is the hipster way of life...just get some aggressive **** to ride down the block.

maybe try an offset seatpost. If you are comfortable then it fits, if it hurts it would be helpful to know where exactly you are feeling the pain

Tru dat.

This thread has a WEALTH of info. Thanks a lot to all. I'll be doing some much closer and more detailed analysis of the posts, when sobriety takes over tomorrow.

expertvillage is horrible.. especially with reptile info.

Top tube length is more relevant than frame size.

But based simply on what you've provided, I'd hazard the opinion that you need a longer stem to compensate for a smaller frame.

A factor to consider is that as one elevates the stem, the cockpit length is effectively shortened.

^^^Just an fyi, I'm 5' 5" with a 30" inseam and a 50cm's too small for me.
To OP, what frame are you riding? Like Dobber said, I think you should find the TT and ST length first, before standover or anything (which is hardly relevant to find the right frame size anyway).

There's also this to help you find the right frame.

Yes and no. Why do I need a longer stem? Why do you think my frame is small for me?

I hear this all the time about TT being more relevant. It depends a lot more on the individual and their style. Not like the old days. Why TT is perfect, but you need to have you seat all the way doen to the frame.

Lets start with my Madison. Its a SM frame according to Schwinn. because of the TRACK geomerty, the TT is short and shorter than I prefer. The MED would give me a TT of 545.2mm which would be also most a match for my Road bike. But the stand over 31.4. My cycling inseam with the junk crushed is 31.2. Basically the frame is too tall for me, but the appropriate TT.

To get the same position on my road bike, I need a 135-140mm stem. Too long for my likening. Because the the frame Geo, I am too far forward over the front wheel.

This is also why on my road bike, I prefer a compact geo and ride a MD/LG frame. I had a SCOTT which was not compact but semi sloping and went with the TT measurment. It was on a MED frame and a 54.2TT. With a 110-120 stem I was fine. But guess what? I had no clearance. The Stand over was 31.5.

So yes, TT is the first thing one should look for. But SO and ST angle and HT angle play a HUGE part.

Sees like most of you guys never road a bike before your tarck bikes and have zero idea about fit. Too many hipsters using 70mm stems and all crunched up. But you look cool, right?

Yes, I have been fitted many times now and I am in the process of learning fitting myself. I have fitted several riders so far and so goo.

Same with another poster telling the guy here that his leg should almost being locked out at the bottom. False! Most riders have the highest Power output in the 15-25 degree range.

back you quote. my 50cm Kilo gives me a 1/2-1" clearnce. I do ride more up right on this bike. with flat bars I use a 120mm stem. To get to my optimal position, I need 140mm stem! Next size Kilo, TT right but ZERO stand over. Track geo and higher BB force more riders to go a size down.

FYI, actually it not depending on your frame's geo. But everyone is different. But where you fitted and measured?

This I highly doubt. Why would your standover height be so important?
Do you spend more time riding on your saddle or standing over your bike? The fit on a road bike would be the same for a track bike ridden on the road, but why would you go a whole size down, simply because the BB is higher?
Because the BB is higher, you're obviously forced to have a higher relative saddle/handlebar height, as the positioning basically shifted up.
ST and HT angle do matter, but the change to the TT length and ST length would be negligible on most frames.

And did you realize with the leg's nearly extended, it's 15-20 degrees? Did you even see the video?
Even if bending it more would provide slightly more power, it it really practical for street use and spinning? I can see how it might help for sprinting, but most of us probably ride farther than just a few miles and at higher cadences.
I really don't see how any additional bend to the leg would would really benefit us for distance riding, but instead be more of a burden.
Also, some "hipsters using 70mm stems and all crunched up" actually have a legit reason (i know right! for once). Those trick frames, like Volume and some Leaders, supposedly have a extra long top tube to accommodate those short stems.

I actually did use to ride a roadbike before I went tarck. But this is my first officially brand new from the ground up bike. Before this, I had an old used road bike, which, at 54 cm, felt too big and uncomfortable. This was another factor that made me decide on a 51 cm frame as opposed to 53. Noob mistake I guess, not taking into account that different bikes have different geometries.

Anyways, @ specialzdspksman, thanks a ton for the tip on raising the saddle. Took it up til my legs were a bit closer to being straight at 6 o'clock position.Took the bike for a long ride today and it felt EPICALLY better. Once the new stem comes in, I'm almost sure I'll be set.

On a side note, ride safely. Had a bit of a mishap with some ******* who rode me off the side of the road. Had to bail and eat it onto the right sidewalk... and I was going FAST. My bones are a little sore, but I'll survive that. What I'm really jonesing over is the scratches and scuffs on my bike now. ****ER!

Glad to hear it helped, and hope you get better. Drivers are such *******s sometimes. You might want to get a check-up in case you have any serious injuries.
A few months ago I had a nasty crash and my left wrist still hurts now whenever I hold anything. (nothing broken though )

Have you ever tired riding a bike that too big SO wise? The bike does NOT fit if you can not straddle the bike with your cycling shoes, period. Yes, there is the occasional time you have to kinda jump foward and off. Ever hit a TT like that?

I guess you run lights and stop signs. No brakes? Again it does not fit if you cannot straddle it with some type of clearance. Who say I went a whole size down? Different bikes and different geometries ALL fit different. You think people all ride the same size bike not matter the brand? Frame Geo? By your comments here you should NOT be giving fit advice.


Really? Most frames? some bikes it can make a big differnce.

Nope I did not view it. I am going by what the top experts recommended. Having you seat to high or too low can also lead to injuries. Having a saddle too high like you recommend can and will lead to injuries. Even JRA. But again everyone is different.


That I know. How many people here with there Kilos and other short TT people have them because they are clueless with fit and think it "looks cool?"

To the OP. Yes, you frame appears a bit small. Go with a longer stem. find a seatpost that has a larger set-back like 25mm and or a saddle with long rails. Rasie you saddle to the point your when you heel is aligned with the pedal spindle you will have just about a locked out knee. This way when you have you foot in the right position, you will be at a good starting point. Rasie and lower to where you feel right.

In the last photo you foot is NOT at the 6 o'clock position. so no one can clearly say you are too high/too low. By juding you might be ok. what size cranks are you running as well? This can effect things as well.

If you going to do some long rides of 40+ miles and want to feel good. Go you your local LBS and get a decent fitting for $75-100. You will learn a lot and do some research by dr. andy pruiit and paul swift.

Yes, I have tried a bike that's too big. But you can obviously straddle one that fits. However you said that standover height was very important in determining the right size, which is complete BS, given the different BB heights of frames.
And no, I've never busted my balls on the TT, and if you can't physically stand over it, it's obviously too big.
Why don't you continue keep saying everything is just different, frame size is different, geometry is different, everyone is different. Then we'll all just be sitting here, wondering how the fuc.k whatever you say can be backed up with any proof.
Come back with real answers.

Oh? Let me look that up for you:

and I should be listening to your "advice" based on what?
I never said that all people, frames, or sizes couldn't be different, which is exactly why I suggested a video for the OP to find his own right fit.

How do you know the saddle is "too high"? Are you the OP?
and by the way, I'd like to know who these "top experts" are? You?
And I was referring to "most frames" because most people here either have/had budget Taiwanese framesets with road/track geometry or just road conversions.

All your posts seem to include an assumption that everyone here is a hipster and don't know what the hell they're doing, when in fact, you're the one with the biased advice and providing sh*t insults with your "advice", with a ******** preschool attitude.
And no, I don't ride brakeless and run red lights, but what seems to you, to be the only type of fixed-gear rider on Earth.

I am simply giving information based on my experiences and research with fit, and so far I've had no injuries or uncomfortable rides.
Although I doubt I 100% right 100% of the time, I can back up my advice with experience and reasons, whereas all your tips have no real proof.

I say, given your f*cked up grammar, your biased "advice", and your angry attitude, go back to school, find some real evidence, and get some psychiatric help, jerk.

That's not true either. It is possible to lean a bike sideways you know.if the top tube is the right length and that is the most important measurement to you, and you can't quite stand over the bike, you can lean it sideways, if you can't trackstand that is ya noob.

And don't kid yourself with hipsters have shorter stems cause leaders and the likes have longer top tubes. They have longer top tubes cause the top tube is stiffer than a stem, so you can have s shorter stem and a stiffer bike for track racing. Part of being a hipster is that you don't race track. They have them cause they either do bar spins, where you need it to be shorter so your bars clear the top tube, or cause it looks cool.

Isn't contradiction just great?

Yea, but how often, other than maybe for true track bikes, do you really see a frame with a BB high enough to do that?
"ya noob"

Well I didn't say fixters wanted short stems because leader made long top tubes, it's the other way around. Leader makes long TT's for fixters short stems.
Plus, stem rise is more of a factor than length when it comes to bar spin clearance anyway. By now, hipsters hardly need to worry about clearance for bar spins and what-not, it's all been figured out. They've been making frames tailored for tricking on.

except for the part that you don't have your heel on the pedal above the spindle during normal riding.

OP - I have been riding and racing bicycles for 40 years and IMHO the Performance fit video (first video) in Tomo_Ishi's post #26 is spot on. That's all I've got to say in this matter.

None of that's true again. Hipsters like shorter stems cause they do, looks or whatever. It has nothing to do with the length of top tube. They will put a 50mm stem on Bianchi Pista (55st, 55tt) or a Leader 725tr (55st, 56.7tt). And leader made bikes with longer top tubes for track racing, not hipster style. Hipster style says "compact is better" anyways, which means not longer tt. And a stem with rise isn't very trickster, just make it short. Check: https://www.tricktrack.org/forums/vie...er=asc&start=0