yeah, square nut on the HKK. Must be an NJS requirement or somfing

I wish I new the model but I use the Izumi 1/8 chain that uses the little bolt and nut thing as a master link. Looks a little hokie at first but works like a dream. I carry a dollar store flat head screwdriver in my saddle bag. I get a flat I stop, pull out the driver, drop the chain, fix the flat, line the wheel back up, tighten it down (I use a chaintug so it all lines up the same), screw the chain back on. It's all very mechanical and minimal time spent dealing with the dirty chain. Love it. Plus, getting the length right couldn't be easier - just punch out the right amount of links and the bolt goes in the hole. Putting in a link pin isn't exactly brain surgery but it's nice to not have to deal with that step at all.

I am curious how you get the nut tight with just a screwdriver. Since the link plate on the back side is also threaded, I've found that you must first install and tighten the screw (bolt), and then screw on the nut and tighten it with a small crescent wrench or pliers while holding the chain. Actually, I don't think the square nut is really needed, as there seems to be sufficient number of threads in the link plate to prevent it from stripping out when tightened.

Yes, and I've always used it. The screw does thread into the back link plate, as you've discovered, so the bolt may not be completely necessary, but it does seem like good insurance. I normally use the process you described -- installing the screw and then snugging up the nut -- but I have also found that holding the nut against the back of the link with finger pressure while installing the screw works well too.

For my money, dirt is what kills chains. On the track, my chains always lasted forever, but on the road I find that regular cleaning makes a big difference. I like the nut/bolt arrangement because it allows me to remove the chain every few weeks (I hate driving pins in and out that often) and run it through the ultrasonic cleaner. I have found this increases chain life by a factor of four, at minimum.

I'm using this particular chain on my track bike, which very rarely sees any road use. I use an old Regina track chain with no master link (all press pins) on my road FG, and try to press out a different link pin every time I remove it for cleaning. If I have to remove the rear wheel to fix a flat, I flip the bike upside down so that the chain doesn't get dirty. Fortunately, I very rarely get flats. When this chain wears out, I'm probably going to replace it with an 8-speed SRAM road chain (3/32) with a quick link.

I don't have the bolt on master link, but I usually try and make a point to keep all my setups as far back in the dropouts as possible, and this will always require removal of the chain to change flats etc.

I usually have KMC chains, so I use a tiny screwdriver to pop the pin and remove the chain. Keeping the wheel slammed shortens my wheelbase slightly and also really helps to prevent rear wheel theft. Most thieves probably won't post up to fiddle around with a master link to steal your stuff.

Dude, I recommended Wippermann 108 because it's real solid. It is, but it is also real loud. I just now swapped mine with Miche Primo Track Chain (looks like a chrome plated K410 but supposedly for track use) and realized. This ain't anywhere close to the best, but Jeez. 108 sounds like thunder storm compared to this. I know keirin racers sound like thunder storm too. So I never even thought better about it.

How's HKK running for you, Don?

TejanoTrackie,

Yes, as a few others noted I just start the bolt then hold the nut against the back and use the driver to screw it all together. I haven't had to do it much. I did it 2 or 3 times the first few weeks it was on just to be sure I had the rhythm down and have thankfully only had one puncture on the road that I dropped the chain. It's a good way of doing things. I don't own one but I've had folks who have chains with a push link say they can be torture to get to work if the chain is dirty and gummed up. Of course, depending on setup, dropping the chain might not be required at all. I'm just a creature of habit. Do it the same way every time.

Sorry I'm a bit off topic, but I just checked my 6 week old chain and it says 75% wear! I know that wear tools aren't terribly accurate but still. I commute about 22km (14 miles) a day. I only have one steep hill. It has rained a few times and I think I only cleaned it once so some of this is on me, but shouldn't it be a bit better than that? Should I change it or just keep riding and assume the measurement is off?

The tension is pretty good I think. Or was it because it is a SRAM PC-1? The bike was purchased used but the chainring and freewheel don't look too worn.

How are you measuring your chain wear?
Instead of using a chain wear tool, try the Sheldon Brown method, and just measure a 12" length of chain. Then use his guide for what to do (nothing, just replace the chain, or replace the chain and cog/chainring), and you should be all good.

I like my Izumi Eco