n+1

Should I buy this for $50 and make it into a CX-style bike with big ass tires?

http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/bik/3310066812.html
http://images.craigslist.org/5L35F75...a47ec715f1.jpg

how much $ do you estimate in putting into it? i think that green is hot

i think about projects like this all the time and then realize id be spending like 300 on just making it what i would want

then it stays on CL

I know I'll put entirely too much money into it, and I honestly don't know how much I'll ride it, but I really would like to option to get off road/into the snow this winter. I know I won't beat on my 722, and sure as hell not my Tarmac. On the other hand, once I put $300+ into it, I probably won't want to beat on it either.

Figure I could probably find some older STI shifters(assuming it has a Shimano 7-8spd group) on eBay for less than $100, new stem for $10-40, hood rat or Civia bars from Scrod for $24-$28, Lizardskins tape for $24, I'd swap the Spoon saddle from my 722 onto it and get a Turbo for my 722, eventually some MTB pedals and shoes, new tires for ~$50, etc etc.

Yeah, too much.

edit: The reality is that I can get an new, entry level Specialized MTB from work for less than I'd put into the GT to make it the way I want it. I keep flip-flopping because I'm really unsure.

im gonna say get the new one

i feel like it just wouldnt be as worth it once youre putting that kind of money into it
tool around with it stock and change stuff as you go along

Should I continue to ride my cracked frame instead of the frame I have that is too large, or not ride?

or sell the frame that is too large and buy something that fits?

It's up for sale, but there aren't a lot of people in central Florida looking for a fixed gear frame. That and no one seems to know what a Bareknuckle is.

ebay it.

Your bareknuckle? :eek:
What happened?

I have two, one I bought from Scrod, is a 56, same top tube as my Allez. The other I bought from guy in DC, it's a 54. The 56 has never quite fit right and after my last ride was starting to give me back problems. The 54 I bought has a small crack at the seat stay joint on the left seat stay. It was fixed by having brass brazed over it but they missed a portion of the crack. At the moment the 54 is built and hasn't fallen apart yet. As soon as the 56 sells I'm going to find another frame that fits.

Have you thought about having the repair corrected?

That's the plan eventually. I have a good friend who is a welder. The brass needs to be taken off with an oxy acetylene torch then welded. The problem is that he said it would take a few months to get around to it. The only builder near Central Florida is in Gainesville, which is quite a drive.

Step one, buy a case of beer.
step two bring your frame and the beer from step one to your friend.

Tubular vs Clincher

I will be riding it mainly on the road and to-from class.

The wheelset I'm looking at is offered in both tubular and clincher.
Tubular weighs 1790g and costs $445
Clincher weighs 1960g and costs $560

In the interest of weight, performance and price should I get the tubulars, or in the interest of convenience should I get the clinchers?
I've heard a few people recently talk about how tubulars aren't as big of a pain in the ass as people make them out to be. And with the $115 price difference I could make up for the fact that tubular tires are usually more expensive.

That $115 would be spent on the first substantial flat.

In the interest of weight, performance and price you shouldn't get 88mm carbons. There isn't an aero advantage at around town speeds. At that price point, you can build a hell of a low profile alloy wheelset, that would weigh at least a pound lighter, aka, an advantage you could feel. I don't really get why you're stuck on a deep ass carbon wheelset for an around campus bike.

In that case, rim suggestion for something that would be equally stiff?

Damn near anything built correctly.

Novatecs/lasers/a23's look damn hot. Save about 100g using a front road hub instead of a novatec track hub. So far I'm loving my circus monkey. 28/24 2x/2x.

the novatec/circus monkey mix would net a wheelset under 1500g, and the a23's have that tubular like feel. You'd have to get your rear hub directly from bdop for the 28h, and circus monkeys are available on ebay for 45 bucks. Everything else you can get from scrod.

Dude, a well-built set of Aeroheads or A23s would most likely be just as "stiff" as those 88mm crabon rims (and more reliable).

As you said, you're only riding on the street to and from class.

+1 masterly hand built > chinacarbon

cat6

ftfy

Should I sell my Spicer? I had to part it out due to money problems and having it sit in the trunk of my moms car is really making me think. I thought I would be happy getting something close to my dream frame but thats not the case. Working on the geo with Gene I didn't really know what I wanted and it doesn't fit the best. Whats the point of going custom if it's not comfortable? I would just be happy if it went to someone who appreciates riding it.

My wife think 6 bikes is too much. I have to unload and have two candidates ready to depart:
2001 Cannondale Si2000. Full Ultegra 6500 in brand new condition.

and 2010 Ridley Crosswind with Rival group and Aksium wheelset. In brand new condition too.

I love them both, but can keep only one. Which one to keep?

(I love my wife too and can't divorce.)

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/...psd7627288.jpg

http://i1091.photobucket.com/albums/...me/R2000si.jpg

Holy spokes (or lack thereof)!

Keep the yellow one because it matches your helmet.

Or get rid of both of them and get a fixed gear.