Hogwash. You can most certainly mount a freewheel on fixed threading.

Do you lace your radials elbows in or elbows out?

all elbows facing the drive side, duh.

Typically with the spoke heads facing out.

Thanks Scrod. He got like really defensive and mean about it. I'm about to sell my sun wheels (fixed/free) and just use my wabi (fixed/fixed) and wanted to double check before I put a freewheel back on

what are some reasons a pedal would rotate (occasionally and not nearly at the speed it would fixed) with a freewheel installed? chain isn't extremely tight.

A crappy freewheel.

If it's brand new, it may go away over time.

damn. is there a happy medium between shimano mx30 and white industries?

I really liked my shimano freewheel,it was silent , but then it rusted and i replaced it with an acs fire something And it was better imo, it just felt sturdier than my shimano and after coasting engAged better when i started peddling. The dicta was cheap and functioned well for the times i use it.

/notscrod

Also coming from a guy who likes his surly cog and lockring.

I was fine with the surly cogs too, so maybe I'll try dicta. thanks

132 pages so apologies if any of these are a repeat.

outside of the godzilla frames, if you bought a steel frame for <$1500, what would you get?

what kind of pump do you use? what types of tools do you prefer? have you finally moved back from the turbo to the concor? and has there been a day since the shop opened for business that you hated (difficult customers, didn't feel like touching a bike, whatever)?

Tomorrow I'm getting a Mountain cycle (of the San Andreas monocoque MTB frame fame) road frame, once I build it up, I'll have a Mountain Cycle road bike and a Cinelli mountain bike. Is that as novel as I've spun it up in my head to be or just a bizarre footnote?

This actually totally answers a question I was gonna ask the mechanics subforum about my Schwinn roadie. Thanks, guys.

That's a tough one. I'm pretty 'no frills' and would most likely be just as happy with a nicely-built Pake as I would be with something custom.

I actually decided to build up a Bare Knuckle over the Godzilla.

pump: I've been using my trusty Topeak Joe Blow Sport for a couple of years now and love it.

tools: I've got so many tools at this point, it's ridiculous. As a rule, I hate Pedro's stuff. Most Park stuff is great, but there a few things they make that are complete rubbish.

saddle: I can' say I'll never use a Turbo again - because I really do like that saddle - but for now, my butt resides on a Concor.

shop: The customers that come in have all been a treat to deal with because it seems they already know what RG is about and have a pretty good idea of what they're looking for. Because we do a ton of online business, the vast majority of customers are awesome but with few difficult ones, it's still the same old stuff - like when someone places an order at midnight on a Saturday and calls or e-mails the shop first thing Monday, pissed off that they haven't received a tracking number yet. I usually respond by politely explaining to them that time travel isn't something we've mastered yet here on Earth.

In a nutshell, I love what I do and there isn't a morning when I "hate" waking up and playing with bike stuff all day.

Do you not even like the Pedros tire levers? I prefer them over the park tool ones actually. They are pretty great i think

That's probably my one real exception. Pedro's tire levers are the bomb.

dear Scrod,

there is a think fast ride faster shirt in this video.
https://www.the5thfloor.co.uk/2012/04...eps-you-going/

Why, yes there is!

Scrod ignored my question.

Sorry...missed it.

That's pretty ironic, I must say.

I miss the old "milk" levers

Scrod,

I cleaned up my drivetrain the other day, degreaser and reinstall+lube. Today, I noticed the most minute (and I mean almost impossible to catch) play in my pedals. The chain has some slack in it on the top side, but it appears to be a good tension. Do you think drawing my wheel back in the stays just enough to take up that slack will be bad? I've never figured out the "perfect" amount of tension to have slack on the bottom and no play on the top of the chainline.

TL;DR

1. Small play in pedals, isolated it to the chain (around 600 miles)
2. Optimum chain tension that I should be looking for at this point?
3. Am I just running a "broke in" drive train now that is going to have subtle amounts of play as the chain/cog ages?

It's really hard to gauge for others because I actually like having a little slack in my chain, which causes a bit of play. I see no ill effect in pulling your wheel back a hair to get it right where you like it.

From what freewheel it starts to be not that crappy and more decent?

Obviously Dicta is the champion on the crappy side, but Langster came with some very silent freehweel (copper color, but I can say what is is), but cranks still spins - drop it in the garbage and get what?

Not Scrod but I am very impressed with the Excess freewheel I have on my Racing Cruiser, 3 pawl, good engagement, not too loud or too quiet.......