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Does the A23 rim come in Ti Grey?
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Originally Posted by Nagrom_
(Post 14400103)
sometimes you don't need a reason...
http://24.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m5...fdhto1_500.gif |
Your shop is by the water right? Do you get a lot of beach crazies?
One of the regular passerbys stopped in for some quick adjustments. America Dan, a lean tan Korean guy riding around with an american flag motorcycle helmet and thong. Cool guy though. |
We're across the street from a huge marina, a fishing pier and the Harbor Master's headquarters so there isn't any crazy beach traffic happening here (thankfully).
I love that the Crazy Korean guy's name is America Dan. It reminded me of when I worked at this tiny record store back in the day and there was an Asian guy who would come in all the time who idolized Stevie Ray Vaughan. He would sometimes carry around a Strat knockoff guitar with mailbox letters stuck on the pick guard that said 'PONG' (his last name) - just like the 'SRV' sticker on Stevie Ray Vaughan's guitar. Naturally, we called him Stevie Ray Pong. /coolstorybro |
Originally Posted by Nagrom_
(Post 14398328)
The 105's have a steel shoe plate. The R540's have a plastic one. Shimano considers both of the shoe plates a "consumable" part. The steel plate is never going anywhere. The plastic plate on the R540's doesn't last too long. The R540's are modeled after DA's, while the 105's look more like ultegras.
I mainly went with the 105's instead of the R540's because because of the steel shoe plate, and never having to worry about it. It was worth the $20. and they're shiny. |
Originally Posted by hamfoh
(Post 14402934)
what's that plate do exactly (serious question)? As I'm about to buy a second pair of SL pedals
They also look cooler. |
mechascrodzilla, should I used the supplied fizik finishing tape or electrical tape? idk if the finishing tape is too logo-y.
edit: also, is it ok to only wrap up to the curve on track drops? or is that some faux pas? cause I may be able to use one roll on both bars, which would be nice. |
The finishing tape that comes with most bar tape sucks. Use electrical tape.
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Just use electrical tape. I find the finishing tape to be highly over-rated.
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 14405068)
The finishing tape that comes with most bar tape sucks. Use electrical tape.
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I usually wrap around a few times.
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Originally Posted by Nagrom_
(Post 14405055)
edit: also, is it ok to only wrap up to the curve on track drops? or is that some faux pas? cause I may be able to use one roll on both bars, which would be nice.
Originally Posted by Nagrom_
(Post 14405074)
half wrap or full?
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 14405107)
I usually wrap around a few times.
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Oh. I would wrap the whole thing but they're your bars.
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So when I get up to speed(fast or max for the gearing) I feel this weird what feels like loose crank or pedals but they are both tight. So then when I started to play with the crank and spun it forward and then back I noticed that there is some play in the bottom bracket. Its tight, the bottom bracket but it has some play from forward to back. So my question is, is this how some are or is something wrong with the bottom bracket, can it be tighter or have no play? Oh I have a stock SteamRoller fixed.
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There shouldn't be any slop at all and if there is, it means one of three things.
1: Cups are not as tight as you think they are. 2: Bottom Bracket is shot and needs replacing. 3: Something is screwy with the bb shell. |
Originally Posted by Dannihilator
(Post 14405334)
There shouldn't be any slop at all and if there is, it means one of three things.
1: Cups are not as tight as you think they are. 2: Bottom Bracket is shot and needs replacing. 3: Something is screwy with the bb shell. |
Chances are, it's not your BB or crank at all (this is a common misconception when "slipping" occurs). It's much more likely that your cog is loose and slipping on the hub.
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Scrod, have you ever finished a bar wrap like this (about 2:30-2:45 in):
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I have.
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For customers, yes. I would never bother with cloth tape (I hate it) and twine on my own bike.
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Originally Posted by Nagrom_
(Post 14405371)
I have.
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 14405365)
Chances are, it's not your BB or crank at all (this is a common misconception when "slipping" occurs). It's much more likely that your cog is loose and slipping on the hub.
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Originally Posted by himespau
(Post 14405377)
Is it as simple as it looks? I'm building a townie for my wife with honey brown saddle and faux-leather tape and I thought finishing it with twine and then shellacking the twine dark would give it a cool look (same for old wine corks instead of end plugs).
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Originally Posted by himespau
(Post 14405368)
Scrod, have you ever finished a bar wrap like this (about 2:30-2:45 in):
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Seriously!
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Now that I have finally found a tire that works for me, should I stick to that tire or continue with my habit of trying different tires?
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If it were me, I would stick with it.
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Dear Scrod,
Today I was removing a bolt from a bottle boss and the head of the bolt broke off leaving the body of the bolt still in the hole -_____- What do you recommend that I do to get that out of there? |
Originally Posted by calbob76
(Post 14406331)
Dear Scrod,
Today I was removing a bolt from a bottle boss and the head of the bolt broke off leaving the body of the bolt still in the hole -_____- What do you recommend that I do to get that out of there? http://www.socaltrailriders.org/foru...1&d=1263144146 /notscrod |
+1
and don't use alloy bolts. |
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