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Old 05-26-12 | 11:01 PM
  #3901  
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How do you run such low ratios on your bikes? It's so hard to keep decent speed for me.
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Old 05-26-12 | 11:05 PM
  #3902  
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Your cog is slipping.
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Learn to spin. I recently got radar clocked by a cop going over 30mph running 49/17.
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Old 05-27-12 | 08:52 AM
  #3903  
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Scrod, what are you replacing your Kagero with?
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Old 05-27-12 | 10:10 AM
  #3904  
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Not sure yet.
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Old 05-27-12 | 10:47 AM
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Scrod, B17 or Selle Turbo?
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Old 05-27-12 | 11:27 AM
  #3906  
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I have my favorites but really can't make a saddle recommendation.
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Old 05-27-12 | 12:15 PM
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Scrod - I asked you about CXP22's or LP-18's before.... but now how about LP-18's or M13 II's? Still a draw?
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Old 05-27-12 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by jammincakes
Scrod, B17 or Selle Turbo?
they're totally different saddles. B17 Narrow is close to the Turbo, but still very different
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Old 05-27-12 | 01:43 PM
  #3909  
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Have you noticed a lot of your Sheldon Brown stickers selling? They're on the front page of r/Bicycling.
Link

good job lol.
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Old 05-27-12 | 02:44 PM
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Scrod,

I'm about to build up my first frame (722 ts) once I get all the parts in. You mentioned something about prepping the seatpost clamp/bolt by tightening it before actually inserting the seatpost.

Do you have any other suggestions as to major things that should be done when building from the start? I'm going to take it to a shop to install the headset, but I'll cut the steerer tube at home with a pipe cutter (after measuring 10 times). I know about greasing threads and proper torque for the BB, but any other tips like the seatpost clamp that might help in the long run?

Thanks.
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Old 05-27-12 | 03:03 PM
  #3911  
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Sounds like you've got it covered.

Prepping the seatpost binder is more important on Leader's aluminum frames but it can't hurt to do it on steel. Just don't overtighten the bolt with no seatpost installed.
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Old 05-27-12 | 03:04 PM
  #3912  
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Originally Posted by Nagrom_
Have you noticed a lot of your Sheldon Brown stickers selling? They're on the front page of r/Bicycling.
Link

good job lol.
Holy ****. Syncmaster was the one who posted the pic of his sticker and now they're blowing up!
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Old 05-27-12 | 03:04 PM
  #3913  
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Originally Posted by bfloyd6969
Scrod - I asked you about CXP22's or LP-18's before.... but now how about LP-18's or M13 II's? Still a draw?
I would say so. Suns look a little nicer but they're comparable in overall quality.
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Old 05-27-12 | 03:30 PM
  #3914  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
Holy ****. Syncmaster was the one who posted the pic of his sticker and now they're blowing up!
You're probably gonna get an influx of business in general.

Free advertising ftw!
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Old 05-27-12 | 03:49 PM
  #3915  
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my friend brought a hip pouch to a ride today, i had never noticed it before. it was RETROGRESSION. holy **** mode engaged

then I met one of his friends who immediately started talking about how he wished there was a thinner type of pedal strap for track pedals. I pointed to my friends bag and said go here, he put it in his phone. hopefully those still exist
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Old 05-27-12 | 03:50 PM
  #3916  
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Thanks dude. We're out of them right now but are making more.
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Old 05-27-12 | 08:47 PM
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How do I know which cranks length won't hit the ground when I'm riding? I've done the crank length calculator thing and it's told me 172.5 or 175 but I don't want to get something too long.
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Old 05-27-12 | 08:51 PM
  #3918  
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Originally Posted by mhd44
How do I know which cranks length won't hit the ground when I'm riding? I've done the crank length calculator thing and it's told me 172.5 or 175 but I don't want to get something too long.
By getting used to them and not hitting the ground. If you're riding fixed and are that worried about it, don't go above 170 I guess.

/notscrod
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Old 05-27-12 | 09:11 PM
  #3919  
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Originally Posted by mhd44
How do I know which cranks length won't hit the ground when I'm riding? I've done the crank length calculator thing and it's told me 172.5 or 175 but I don't want to get something too long.
learn to corner with a good line
/morenotscrod
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Old 05-27-12 | 09:38 PM
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Well, not so much worried about hitting during turning or having a bad line, it was more or less a super n00b question about cranks being too long at all. Guess my question got answered, thanks!
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Old 05-28-12 | 06:50 AM
  #3921  
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Why do you feel you need cranks that long in the first place?
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Old 05-28-12 | 08:00 AM
  #3922  
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Well, I've had experiences with 165s that didn't feel right. And I've read online it's better to have proper length cranks. My inseam is 33'' and my seat tube measures 56cm so I've had problems trying to figure it out.
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Old 05-28-12 | 08:19 AM
  #3923  
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Same measurements as me. I always use 170s without issue and the only time I ever experienced pedal strike was on my SE Premium Brew (which had a lower BB than most "track" frames).

Last edited by Scrodzilla; 05-28-12 at 08:22 AM.
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Old 05-28-12 | 12:23 PM
  #3924  
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Originally Posted by mhd44
How do I know which cranks length won't hit the ground when I'm riding? I've done the crank length calculator thing and it's told me 172.5 or 175 but I don't want to get something too long.
Pedal strike is a function of crank length, bottom bracket drop, pedal design, and speed in the corner. The more clearance you have (short crank arms, high bottom bracket, low profile pedals), the faster you can take corners without striking a pedal. Each of these parameters represents a comprise to some degree; it is up to you to prioritize these characteristics to meet your personal needs.

Keep in mind that crank length calculators generally assume a road bike with a freewheel, not a fixed gear. You can use 175mm arms with a fixed gear, but it will mean taking more care in corners (i.e. slower) than if you had shorter crank arms.
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Old 05-28-12 | 01:44 PM
  #3925  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
Sounds like you've got it covered.

Prepping the seatpost binder is more important on Leader's aluminum frames but it can't hurt to do it on steel. Just don't overtighten the bolt with no seatpost installed.
Thanks Scrod.
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