Seriously dude.

Any experience with this BB tool Scrod?

https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Wrench...290896&sr=1-11


It would be sweet to mess with the BB and not have to take the crank arms off first, or should I go with the regular Park Tools tool?

So itching to answer.


Fidget fidget fidget fidget fidget

WHAT SAY YOU OH NET OF HAIR??

That tool is extremely cheap, which is why I'm a little on the wall about it.

No experience with that tool but I have the Park Tool version of that and think it absolutely sucks. It also does a really good job of marring the hell out of a BB cup. No thanks.

Although you need to remove your crank arm to use it, the BBT-19 is a much better tool.

To be fair, you don't have to remove your crank arm, but you do have to loosen it in order to slip the tool between the arm and the bb. /shrug worked great for me last night when I did the after-the-first-30-mile-bb-tighten jam.

Sorry to intrude Dave, but Jandro, you should never ever ever have to retighten any BB that was installed properly. Only the crank arms on square taper cranks unsually require some retightening when they are new, even if they are initially tightened to the correct torque.

Oh ok. I just did it based on what a shop had previously told me. They did their BB service and told me to re-tighten the BB if need be after 30mi or so. I relayed the information to Jandro :x

Sometimes seemingly knowledgeable bike mechanics give the strangest, occasionally plainly incorrect, advice and suggestions.

Yeah...I didn't even think of that. You shoudn't need to mess with a GXP at all if it was installed right in the first place. The NDS crank arm bolt on my Omniums loosened up a tiny bit after the first few days of riding but it was so minimal, it most likely made no difference.

If a shop charged you to "service" a GXP BB, you paid for nothing.

To be fair, mine is a 20 tooth spline square taper (i don't know what the hell to call it), and he told me to tighten mine. TIL you shouldn't have to check GXP. Was he right in telling me to check mine?

Wait...you have a splined square taper?



edit: NVM. You mean the splines are inside your BB cup, right? That tool you posted a link to would be useless to you. You need a Park Tool BBT-22.

Holy balls of Christ, I'm confused.

Good to know. There was almost no play anyway, so I'd put it in the bucket of "installed correctly the first time."

Yes, I have the splined one NOW.

I plan to buy the S300's which have a GXP BB in the near future (hence the tool question. I already have a BBT-22 for my current BB). Hahahha sorry to asplode your mind Scrod. Jandro has a GXP BB now.

Phew! If you're going to end up with GXP, get the BBT-19.

Scrod,

I'm having a hard time getting the headset on my Kagero adjust nicely. It seems to be either way too tight, or the top cap bolt is finger loose. Unless there is next to no tension on the top cap, the headset just feels really tight. Any ideas? I'm using the tall cap that goes over the top bearing, and none of the washers. Any ideas? Do the bearings need some "break in" time to loosen up?

The bearings should be good to go. Did you put all the parts in the correct order? Have you got at least a few mm gap between the top of the steerer and the top of the stem?

I'm pretty confident I have everything in the correct order. From bottom: fork crown race, bearing, bearing, centering ring, the dust cap, then obviously spacers, stem, and top cap. There is 3-4mm of space between the top of the steerer and stem. It's not super alarming, it just feels a lot tighter than it ever felt on my 722. Like it's either tight or loose, there doesn't seem to be a happy-medium.

A lot of seals are unidirectional and cause a headset to act like yours if they arent set right

That's weird. Are you using a traditional star nut tapped into your steerer or a compression plug?

Just the provided star nut.

Scrod:

For an American-made frame, what's your opinion on the Milwaukee Bikes Cream City made by Waterford? I'm tempted to start selling some parts, frames and doing some extra writing to pick one up.

Disregard. I didn't bother reading the little card that had the short stack headset cover and the 2 spacers to be installed with the tall stack cover. Fixed, thanks for the help.

Scrod, how do you pronounce "Kagero"?